let us know...

 

Update: Paul, my machining person, ended up topping the shaft and coupler splines in penetrating oil every hour or so and then alternated between pressing inwards and outwards on the shaft until it finally broke free. I was super happy to get the call from him this morning. I was beginning to convince myself it was not going to come apart.

I'm happy I decided to replace the axle seal (what led to these discoveries). From what the innards of the housing provide, it seems the seal went bad due to bearing failure within the small outer housing between its inner surface and the bearing surface of the shaft coupler. With the bearings having failed, the shaft was free to move more than the seal could handle.

Now, I need to try finding the part numbers for the shaft coupler and it's bearings before I can install a new half shaft. I found a super helpful diagram from Schwarttzy. Let me know if anyone has additional resources to send my direction.

Here's a collage of the separated parts:

Top left: inner shaft from CV assembly, Top right: engine-side of small outer axle housing (with failed bearing), Bottom left: shaft coupler, Bottom right: wheel-side of small outer axle housing (with destroyed seal)

 

Glad you did it

 

Appears from all the corrosion that a prior owner may have lived near the ocean and had a salty environment. You should definitely get a can of the recommended CRC. For some future issues and preventive maintenance.

 

Coupler? Housing Support 12479253

 

You must have misread my post. Yes, coupler: https://cmgearworks.com/product/2005...ler-28-spline/

 

Thank you, and I sure am, too. Now I am waiting for some pretty hard-to-find parts to arrive in the mail. Hopefully the carriers stop delivering my stuff to the wrong people.

It does look a lot rustier than I would like in many places, unfortunately. It spent most of its life in Washington, with snowy winters and I imagine salt. 300,000 miles in such an environment must not have been too pleasant for the axle. Thank you for the CRC suggestion. I will have to give in sooner or later haha.

 

While waiting on parts, I decided to continue working towards solving my starting issue.

Here are the symptoms: about 8/10 times, the vehicle will not start during the initial "timed" start cycle (turn and release key w/starter turning engine for a few seconds). On the second turn of the key, the engine fires right up. The security light flashes throughout the starting process but I have never been "stuck" for 10 minutes waiting. It almost always starts immediately on my second key turn.

What I've done so far: cleaned the MAF sensor, cleaned the throttle body, swapped batteries, cleaned terminals and grounds, held the accelerator down while starting, turned key to pressurize fuel pump on/off/on while waiting ~5 seconds each time, and finally holding the key all the way during the initial "timed" start.

What I'm trying now: replacing the ignition switch housing & lock cylinder and also having keys cut from VIN. The lock cylinder was in need of replacement due to excessive wear and the keys both are too worn to work in the new cylinder I coded.

I am hoping the new housing and cylinder will impact the starting issue. If anyone has any ideas, please let me know.


Replacing ignition switch housing & lock cylinder.

 

Here are a couple photos from a couple weeks ago when I picked up some used KO2's and some used Fuel Beasts for the H3:

 

looks good but, why buying used BFG's ? I never would buy used tires for my 4x4 or my wife's car.