Can't argue with that, that's how my father eats his steak. Throws it on a barbie for 1 min or so on each side just to sear it, inside is still absolutely raw.

Ok back to overheating. I was able to turn my wheel and get a peak at the t-stat housing IR temps, was at 189-190F. Up on top I pointed my IR right where the ECT is and got 208-2010F.
What difference should I expect to see? Car was in the garage when I checked, outside is just impossible right now, we're cookin at about 113F Garage is no much cooler either, no AC.

 

I grew up in a rural area back in the '60's-'70's, raised/butchered; cows/pigs/chickens. Nothing better than fresh meat, after very well taking care of them!
Back to overheating, Coolant flow:Water pump.

 

Do these water pumps just stop working as efficiently over time? Thought they either work or they don't.
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What about scaling or corrosion in the engine? Are the H3's known for that?

 

I posted> Coolant flow:Water pump. Just to be clear: Coolant flow blockage or water pump efficiency.
Coolant flow blockage can be corrected:COOLANT SYSTEM FLUSH and/or REPLACE defective T-STAT.
Water pump efficiency could be caused by worn/disintegrated/loose impeller or leaking shaft seal causing air intake through the weep hole. Just be sure to correct overheat, to prevent engine destruction.

 

Replaced the water pump today, easiest water pump I've ever done, took me less than 1hr. New water pump in, coolant back in, went for a test drive and no difference. At first it's fine, but after light driving for about 15-20min, same as before I am back at 220F and Transmission Temp at 245F. Granted it's 115F outside and AC is on, there are plenty of other SUVs on the road that don't have this problem.

Went back home, parked the car while I get my IR gun. Watched the coolant rise to 235F, so I shut the engine off.. now I am starting to wonder if the radiator is crap, even though it's fairly new. I pointed my IR gun right where the hose connects at the top and got 233F or so, it's exact same on the bottom, almost as if it's not cooling the fluid at all. I am seriously stumped.

-new pulley/tensioner
-new belt
-new fan clutch
-thermostat removed
-everything torqued to spec
-newish radiator (previous owner)
​​​​​​-checked for exhaust gases in overflow tank and radiator via block tester

What else is there??

 

You found the blockage! Get that radiator out/replace, or you can try flushing it? Perhaps previous owner used the wrong coolant or stop leak? Make sure to flush the ENTIRE COOLANT SYSTEM, then drain and refill with:

 

 

 

Will defiantly add this to the list, thinking of replacing the radiator anyway since that would be the last part in the cooling system that I haven't touched yet. And a chemical flush wouldn't hurt for the piece of mind.

Question, would air trapped inside somewhere cause overheating on the H3? I read that the radiator hose should be pretty hard if there is no air trapped inside, mine were squishy. But I've also read that this car doesn't need burping, is it true?

 

When you have radiator cap off, running @ operating temp, & radiator full to the cap> DONE,CAP ON!
Btw, "squishy" coolant hose most common cause is due to overheating,thermal breakdown, opposite overcooking a steak when it turns into leather. Rubber gets softer when overheated. Keep an eye on those hoses!