Hummer H3 For the Hummer driver who wants the rugged look and off road capabilities of the Hummer, but in a smaller size and with a more fuel economy friendly engine.

H3 running hotter than usual

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Old Jul 12, 2023 | 11:56 AM
  #101  
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That's what the troubleshoot guide is referring to when they say inspect "the seals"? Mine are missing sheesh my truck is missing a lot of stuff, no wonder it runs so hot.
 
Old Jul 12, 2023 | 01:09 PM
  #102  
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The #5 is like a 3/4" - 1" wide foam weather-stripping squished and glued in place. When they get old the adhesive wears out and they blow out and disappear. I had to shoe goo mine to keep it put. Buy some weather-stripping and stick it in there.

I would say both of those are more important than the plastic deflectors out front. I cut the plastic deflectors out to accommodate the Mile Marker 9500 winch in the BA Winch Bumper and it does not run hot at all. Again, in MI it is not going to get 100F+. We usually only see 12-15 90F+ days all year.

 

Last edited by Doc Olds; Jul 12, 2023 at 01:13 PM.
Old Jul 12, 2023 | 06:44 PM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by NMH3
Thanks Hummerz. Do you think that seal is going to be most of my problem? The seal is so far out of the way that I thought maybe it had something to do with being able to drive through water vs directing air through the rad.

Both the baffles you indicated, plus the seal on top between rad and frame, are all there.
With EPA fuel economy regulations, most of the airflow does not penetrate the grilles while driving. Best to keep the air intake from the grilles sealed on all 4 sides, directing air to the engine, to prevent overheating!






 
Old Jul 13, 2023 | 07:31 AM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by Doc Olds
The #5 is like a 3/4" - 1" wide foam weather-stripping squished and glued in place. When they get old the adhesive wears out and they blow out and disappear. I had to shoe goo mine to keep it put. Buy some weather-stripping and stick it in there.

I would say both of those are more important than the plastic deflectors out front. I cut the plastic deflectors out to accommodate the Mile Marker 9500 winch in the BA Winch Bumper and it does not run hot at all. Again, in MI it is not going to get 100F+. We usually only see 12-15 90F+ days all year.

it's silly to compare V8 and I5. they are different engines. different cooling system. the I5 is poorly done. so I moved the thermostat to the top and put electric fans from Chrysler. no more overheating.
 
Old Jul 13, 2023 | 10:45 AM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by Disel
it's silly to compare V8 and I5. they are different engines. different cooling system. the I5 is poorly done. so I moved the thermostat to the top and put electric fans from Chrysler. no more overheating.
Mr. Silly, that is what they call me, just silly me pointing out the freeking Upper Radiator Seal that NMH3 asked about. MY Red Arrow in the pic was spectacular I would say, almost genius if I were not so silly.

All H3/H3Ts have identical radiators, coolant reservoirs, Radiator Caps, overflow hoses, mounts, baffle and operate at the same pressure using Dexcool. I'd say that was the same.

I5s


V8s

 
Old Jul 13, 2023 | 03:18 PM
  #106  
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Waiting for a few parts in the mail, only thing I am not able to obtain unless I order a used one is the bottom seal/rubber flap.. weather stripping I'll do today that's easy. Might even seal off the sides where the fan shroud meets the radiator.

Hey Doc, is it normal for transmission to operate at 230F if outside temp is 106F? Engine will run hot too just sitting there, but once moving temps come down quite a bit. But transmission stays at 230F-233F
 
Old Jul 13, 2023 | 06:27 PM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by Doc Olds
Mr. Silly, that is what they call me, just silly me pointing out the freeking Upper Radiator Seal that NMH3 asked about. MY Red Arrow in the pic was spectacular I would say, almost genius if I were not so silly.

All H3/H3Ts have identical radiators, coolant reservoirs, Radiator Caps, overflow hoses, mounts, baffle and operate at the same pressure using Dexcool. I'd say that was the same.

Mr Silly, you have covered the air flow induction, yet you need to check your coolant level/loss.


Originally Posted by Doc Olds
The #5 is like a 3/4" - 1" wide foam weather-stripping squished and glued in place. When they get old the adhesive wears out and they blow out and disappear. I had to shoe goo mine to keep it put. Buy some weather-stripping and stick it in there.

I would say both of those are more important than the plastic deflectors out front. I cut the plastic deflectors out to accommodate the Mile Marker 9500 winch in the BA Winch Bumper and it does not run hot at all. Again, in MI it is not going to get 100F+. We usually only see 12-15 90F+ days all year.

Full should be at the seam:



 
Old Jul 13, 2023 | 07:17 PM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by MadDogBimmer89
Waiting for a few parts in the mail, only thing I am not able to obtain unless I order a used one is the bottom seal/rubber flap.. weather stripping I'll do today that's easy. Might even seal off the sides where the fan shroud meets the radiator.

Hey Doc, is it normal for transmission to operate at 230F if outside temp is 106F? Engine will run hot too just sitting there, but once moving temps come down quite a bit. But transmission stays at 230F-233F
Have you verified temp with
Non-Contact Digital Infrared Thermometer - Laser Thermometer Gun Non-Contact Digital Infrared Thermometer - Laser Thermometer Gun
?
A great tool to diagnose! I also use mine for home air loss, HVAC performance, & grillin'

You can get 1 cheap:




 
Old Jul 13, 2023 | 09:41 PM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by hummerz
Have you verified temp with Non-Contact Digital Infrared Thermometer - Laser Thermometer Gun?
A great tool to diagnose! I also use mine for home air loss, HVAC performance, & grillin'

You can get 1 cheap:
I haven't done that, I actually have a Milwaukee one laying around for checking my HVAC Delta-T and such, for grilling I use one of those probe things someone got me for my birthday, specially when smokin

I'll check the transmission outer temp and compare to what I am getting in app, although I am not sure how accurate that would be considering I'll be measuring surface temp, but I will give it a whirl. I am using Torque Pro and Carly Bluetooth dongle, is Torque Pro any good for monitoring temps? I've never used it until I got the H3, installed it because it had preset modules for GM vehicles and its was pretty to look at.


 

Last edited by MadDogBimmer89; Jul 13, 2023 at 09:55 PM.
Old Jul 14, 2023 | 08:26 AM
  #110  
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For coolant temp point IR at the passenger side of the head. The ect is mounted in the rear, and matched scanner temp last I checked(POST #18 ABOVE):
Originally Posted by hummerz
Your cooling fan is junk?
I just checked my '07 system(OEM>clutch/fan, AM>radiator/tstat/ect/waterpump).
Ambient temp:78°, start and let idle until reached max temp., 20+ minutes and stopped @
201° on my scanner. I checked cylinder head temp with IR and @ 201°. I checked both ends of the radiator and @ around 170°.
I increased RPM's and within a minute my scanner dropped to 192°.
On a side note, I had an issue with high temp on the gauge many years ago and replaced the ECT, no problems since, only reaches 1/2 on the gauge to this day.





 



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