H3 running hotter than usual
Taking the thermostat completely out on mine helped, how do you explain that? I am relocating the t-stat for a few different reasons:
1. So I can run a cooler 170-180 T-Stat.
2. So I can have easy access to the T-stat and swap out to a warmer one during the winter if needed (I cut my arms up getting to it yesterday, don't want to do this often)
3. So that the T-stat will be located at the engine outlet/radiator inlet and react to engine coolant temp not radiator coolant temp. Wouldn't that be the case?
I'll look into doing the engine enema also, won't hurt. Thanks for the tip and link.
1. So I can run a cooler 170-180 T-Stat.
2. So I can have easy access to the T-stat and swap out to a warmer one during the winter if needed (I cut my arms up getting to it yesterday, don't want to do this often)
3. So that the T-stat will be located at the engine outlet/radiator inlet and react to engine coolant temp not radiator coolant temp. Wouldn't that be the case?
I'll look into doing the engine enema also, won't hurt. Thanks for the tip and link.
Back in the day, I ran some wicked Street Strip Oldsmobiles. There would be "those guys" that would boast they removed the TStat to "cool the engine". In the morning (when the track surface and air were cooler) it would seem like they made a good bet. As elimination rounds continue into mid afternoon when there was a hot baked track, heat/humidity of the day as well as less time between runs, I could spank all there silly azzes with my TStat right where it was supposed to be because they could not burn all the fuel they were cramming in the cylinders and their mechanical timing was off. Livin' and learnin'. I digressed........
The goal is to always keep the Radiator temp lower than coolant in the engine block so.............. it can cool when it is needed.
Back to the H3. One of the common problems I have seen with high heat and H3s is dirty radiators, like from mud and cruddy water dried in. Not to mention bugs, leaves, and crud that accumulates in between the AC Condenser and the Radiator. I would be looking there before messing with any TStat. Last time I had my Radiator out for the Cam swap I vacuumed the back side of the Condenser and front of the Radiator with a shop vac bristle attachment. More crud in there than I would have thought.
I am done here, you guys are all hot and bothered about............ cooling.
This comes down to basic liquid cooled late model auto tech. The heat generated by an engine is always present, and depends upon load, coolant quality, how clean your Radiator and engine are, and outside ambient air temp and humidity. When you take out your TStat, or choose a lower temp TStat you are shifting heat from the engine into the radiator. It did not go away, your engine still makes the same heat, you just packed some of it it in the coolant hoses and radiator. Which short term may seem like a good idea, until the source of cooling (the Radiator) is heat soaked beyond its capacity to cool any longer and slowly builds to a hotter than expected coolant temp. Somewhere in there the PCM will start its control by taking advance out of spark tables, reduce fuel = power to in turn reduce heat because its factory tune is set to run in conjunction with a 195F TStat in place. Many of our customers in the Deep humid S and hot SW have reached out explaining they feel reduced performance in summer extremes and wonder why. That is because cooling is controlled in modern vehicles not just mechanically (TStat), but electronically by your PCM tune. Power makes heat. Reduced power = reduced heat.
Back in the day, I ran some wicked Street Strip Oldsmobiles. There would be "those guys" that would boast they removed the TStat to "cool the engine". In the morning (when the track surface and air were cooler) it would seem like they made a good bet. As elimination rounds continue into mid afternoon when there was a hot baked track, heat/humidity of the day as well as less time between runs, I could spank all there silly azzes with my TStat right where it was supposed to be because they could not burn all the fuel they were cramming in the cylinders and their mechanical timing was off. Livin' and learnin'. I digressed........
The goal is to always keep the Radiator temp lower than coolant in the engine block so.............. it can cool when it is needed.
Back to the H3. One of the common problems I have seen with high heat and H3s is dirty radiators, like from mud and cruddy water dried in. Not to mention bugs, leaves, and crud that accumulates in between the AC Condenser and the Radiator. I would be looking there before messing with any TStat. Last time I had my Radiator out for the Cam swap I vacuumed the back side of the Condenser and front of the Radiator with a shop vac bristle attachment. More crud in there than I would have thought.
I am done here, you guys are all hot and bothered about............ cooling.
Back in the day, I ran some wicked Street Strip Oldsmobiles. There would be "those guys" that would boast they removed the TStat to "cool the engine". In the morning (when the track surface and air were cooler) it would seem like they made a good bet. As elimination rounds continue into mid afternoon when there was a hot baked track, heat/humidity of the day as well as less time between runs, I could spank all there silly azzes with my TStat right where it was supposed to be because they could not burn all the fuel they were cramming in the cylinders and their mechanical timing was off. Livin' and learnin'. I digressed........
The goal is to always keep the Radiator temp lower than coolant in the engine block so.............. it can cool when it is needed.
Back to the H3. One of the common problems I have seen with high heat and H3s is dirty radiators, like from mud and cruddy water dried in. Not to mention bugs, leaves, and crud that accumulates in between the AC Condenser and the Radiator. I would be looking there before messing with any TStat. Last time I had my Radiator out for the Cam swap I vacuumed the back side of the Condenser and front of the Radiator with a shop vac bristle attachment. More crud in there than I would have thought.
I am done here, you guys are all hot and bothered about............ cooling.

Make sure your Condenser and Radiator are clean as well.
How 'bout those Golden Knights! Impressive for sure.
Good luck.
Unfortunately I'm not being able to get my hands on one and now we havew4 days of public holiday and most places will be closed here (entire Middle East actually) so hopefully by next week 🤧
I was thinking of something else, if i remove the thermostat and drive around the same places i did before where the temps went up just to check if the temps go back up, wouldnt that confirm that i have a circulation issue? Should i try that if i dont get a IR gun?
I was thinking of something else, if i remove the thermostat and drive around the same places i did before where the temps went up just to check if the temps go back up, wouldnt that confirm that i have a circulation issue? Should i try that if i dont get a IR gun?
Nothing wrong with a custom mod given you extreme summer heat. A couple people here did that. Somebody mounted it in an in-line upper hose cylinder that could be easily accessed to swap out the TStat when the seasons changed. That was a while back and I do not remember who or exactly why.
Make sure your Condenser and Radiator are clean as well.
How 'bout those Golden Knights! Impressive for sure.
Good luck.
Make sure your Condenser and Radiator are clean as well.
How 'bout those Golden Knights! Impressive for sure.
Good luck.
Golden Knights is all the rave right now, people love em here. When we first moved to the state we were confused with all the Knight car plates. This is what our plates look like around here.

Car seems to run cooler while in motion 200-217F, however while idling I am getting 230f while transmission coolant temp stays at 210f. Once I start moving temps come back down to 217f. What do you think? I will give the radiator a hose down once the vehicle cools down a bit.


