You would be WRONG. The Cold Line is exactly where my level is at, the "seam" would be even higher than HOT.

 

That's the minimum level, go below=OVERHEAT.

 

I checked using my IR gun, not sure I got any definite answers. Upper Coolant hose seems to be about the same temp as I am getting on the torque app, about 220F. The block where the ECT is, I was getting 245F which doesn't seem right.

 

You verified: OVERHEATING!

 

If the temperature in the radiator is the same high as in the engine, then the radiator may be clogged. Or it doesn't blow fan

 

Upper hose is the engine outlet/radiator inlet, that temp was the same as the coolant temp at the ECT. I didn't check temperature at the radiator outlet however, which is the lower hose.

​Radiator temp on the upper driver side was 170F. Radiator is fairly new, was replaced not long ago due to leaking.
I got a thermal camera, gonna see if I can see anything at the radiator or any temp differences that could indicate what you're suspecting..

What does the overheating diagnostic referring to when it states to check the following:

• The A/C condenser seals
• The front air deflector
• The side seals

I would like to start there since I pretty much skipped that step and already replaced belt tensioner, belt, fan clutch. Don't want to keep throwing parts at it if they don't need to be replaced.

 

Direct IR at T-stat housing/block(not hose) to check temp. Post results.

 

I couldn't get the reading from the T-Stat Housing as it is located on the lower driver side (lower hose), upper outlet housing (upper hose) couldn't get a stable reading due to air flow from the fan so it kept jumping around all over the place. When I say "upper hose/lower hose" I am using that as reference, I was measuring closer to the radiator similar to your photo. Upper radiator/inlet was at 226F similar to what I am getting on the torque app. Lower radiator/outlet was at 173F, so about 53F cooler. I don't think using an IR method is a good indicator of anything since we're measuring surface temperature, not very accurate unless you have a reference point. Same with your grilling, just because your steak is 135F on the outside does not mean its 135F on the inside, why probes are used instead. Same with HVAC, if you use the same instrument measuring return temp vs. supply temp you get a difference in reading/delta T. But more accurate temp reading would require an actual probe.

 

135° surface temp is perfectly cooked for me.

 

Back to your OVERHEATING, YOU NEED TO check IR temp at the head and block, NOT HOSES. Hoses are an insulator and will not show anything close to the temp inside with IR. Just make sure you point the IR at the passenger side of the head(not exhaust manifold) & drivers side of the block t-stat/housing. Try doing this after you reach your high temp at idle, then shutdown and check temp variance between the 2 points.