it seems like dropping it would be better for the half shafts, normalizing the angle. but the front diff is really fixed in relation to the transfer case right? how important is that "fixed" driveshaft angle when you change it, the rear is always bouncing around,not so the front huh?
now I gotta crawl under in the morning and look and I don't mess with these mods!!

 

To all of the H3/H3T newbees reading this thread, PLEASE do your research and don't spend your hard earned $ on the useless small stuff. Spend a little time and research your options and listen to others who have made/seen the mistakes in the past. You will see there are several tried and true options that are worth saving up for such as a PCMofSC.com tune (I5), SuperChips tuner (Alpha) FREE Sunroof drain fix, FREE re-clocking of the rear wiper, TB and MAF cleaning (using the proper cleaners), FREE torsion bar adjustment and an alignment saving you time and $.

Please don't do what some "engineer" who has it all figured out is doing. He is even getting the "60 HP Magic Chip" and piggybacking it with a Jet chip for even more extra HP! Might even have a TB spacer in there somewhere for an extra 25HP who knows!
https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/h...le-chip-31636/

Will he try the hair dryer turbo charger next???
New Electric Intake supercharger Turbo All Vehicles MPG HP Intake Turbocharger | eBay


Or the elusive Fuel Saver Magnet Ionizer, Stay tuned .....

 

the Jet chip does add substantial power, I can un plug it and lose 7 mph on a test hill at 60 MPH. Also I dont expect the new chip to work, i read many bad reviews about it , I didnt claim 60 hp , They did and I said Doubtful, Im testing it at it will likely be a joke, much like you. The leveling kit with one inch drop for the Front Axle is a kit a specialized 4x4 shop designed and installs/ sells to fix the axle angles for leveled rigs. just Blow away if cant see how the blocks correct angles., You mock everything you dont have on your rig and so far the remarks are that I will lose ground clearance. Pull your head from your *** and put it underneath you rig and take a look,,, .

 

The general consensus is:

Crank T-bars to 23.5" max and you can fit 35's.
No need for shackles or t-bar keys or a diff drop. It just works and is easy and free.

Rancho 4" lift adds extra belly clearance for 35's. 37's are too much for H3 axles to handle unless you are a show truck.

 

Some friendly advice would be to lighten up your attitude and listen to what these guys are telling you, but it doesn't seem like you are here to receive advice but rather give it, on a vehicle you obviously know little about. Some of these guys have put some serious miles on their rigs under some serious offroad conditions.

Bottom line- You are wasting your money and wasting time filling up threads with all of the bogus mods that have come and gone years ago. The H3 has been around for close to ten years now and you think you're the first guy to ever stumble across some of this junk? It's been tried and discarded dozens of times on multiple forums.

Research. It's your friend.

 

Actually its not possible to drop the diff. its almost touching the crossmember where its attached/supported with a rubber mount. you would need to lower the crossmember,getting you into the clearance problem.
I posted b4 without looking under and its tight. the driveshaft is close to a tranny cooling line if you tilted the diff which isn't practicle anyway.So I agree that the concept is ok ,but cant be done anyway.
the other stuff I have no interest in and I really suspect wild claims.

Theres a guy on talk radio who is very well respected for his views on many things,YET he himself does the commercial for the "magic'fuel saver that gives 22% gas savings. there he looses me. I wouldn't take a free one.

 

Byeatts the "senior members" on here will bash all common sense on here unless it is an idea they have. They argued for weeks on how it is no problem to run 35" and 37" tires on a stock rig and when I suggested beefing up said rig, longer shocks and beefier cv joints they said I was wasting money. Now as a owner of a 2007 H3 and a 2009 H3T, one with 75,000 miles and the other with 50,000 miles, who wheels both rigs I will say that dropping the front diff 1" to help take stress off the cv joints would seem to help. My question would be how does it effect the other parts as you would not be moving the lower or upper A arms and other steering parts. Would this create a bind in these areas? The rancho 4" kit addresses those ares as well. I would like to see the final product when someone tested this out. And just fyi, I did a cv replacement at 36000 on my T and I am running 315/70/17 and do not abuse it!

 

Arnt you special. The 1 inch diff drop helps correct the CV angles with raising to 24". It fits seamlessly . its been installed and works great for only 40 bucks , no its not my idea a specialized suspension shop designed it. I have never ever mentioned 37 tires, i run 35,s. it corrects the CV angle and dosnt alter anything else.. the Rancho 4 inch does address the issues at a very high cost. as an mechanical engineer , not a back woods mechanic I have looked at this very closely and is flawless, this kit is Not designed to raise the truck higher, just to minimize the CV angles of those who have cranked up the Torsion to 23.5- 24".raising any higher does effect the other components such as steering/sway bar ect.suit yourself.

 

Do you mind showing us pictures of what you did? Pictures help explain alot.

As for tainter, is there a specific thread on why not to add the spacer (if it is even possible)? Ive been frequenting 3 different forums and this is the first time someone mentions this. I searched around and found someone on a different forum saying its bad but didnt explain why.

 

what am I missing? I crawled under and put my finger between the front diff and the crossmember below. it was a tight fit. how do you drop the diff without hitting? its about 3/8 inch.