A Leveling Kits' greatest function for the H3 is to allow people to adjust the front T Bars for TOO MUCH Lift. 23.6" Hub center to fender lip is the max, and the OEM T Bolt keys will get you there even with a winch bumper. More than that, you will start breaking chit, that simple.


What Tainter said X2.

 

Not accurate. Due to the length of the drive shaft the blocks that lower the differential 1 inch do not add much angle to the U joints at all and is still less angle than most stock trucks and corrects the CV axle angle. . I just ordered the blocks from Larry, Very informative individual. with this simple fix the fender measurement is not an issue. Thanks to Solid JJ this was the missing link for any rise of a vehicle.

 

It seems like this will be on the road to a domino effect of problems. You installed one part(leveling kit) that wasn't even necessary to achieve the same exact thing. It's too high so another part has to be added now that is proven to fail or cause other parts to fail prematurely as we have seen. With what I know now, if I would have bought my h3 with an aftermarket leveling kit I would have taken it off and just cranked on the torsion bars, get the alignment and drive along without issues. I've lifted a lot of vehicles, suspension and block lifts. I have 2 companies that I buy my lifts from because I know they know what parts are needed in lifts for each specific vehicle. I tried early on in my wheeling career to "piece and part" things together to rectify a new problem that would arise from a blunder I made by installing another part. It is a nightmare. Broken transfer cases, axles, bearings. you name it. I've been there. Won't go down that road again. My advice,..............listen to Doc and Tainter. They know what the hell they are talking about.

 

Lol!

So let me get this straight in my head...haha!

1st -a lift was put on...
2nd - a torsion key and shackel was preformed...
3rd - we went and bought something to then lower the driveshaft and drive axle angles?

Did I miss something guys?
A bit confused....

Would it just be wiser to raise the torsion slightly?
Chris

 

The block simply lowers the differential one inch correcting the CV angles to allow 35 tires to be run and look correct, The ground clearance with 35 is awesome and the front Diff. is not by any means hanging down, Its far tucked up in the chassis and if you take the time to look you will see what were talking about. . The skid plate remains in tact and the diff sits above that, So you don't lose any clearance at all from the diff drop.you simply correct axle angles.

 

And talk about service, I didnt even ask for a price, He charged me 48 bucks shipped for the whole kit.. If you go to page two in this forum there a pic of it installed. You can then see that the diff is tucked up above into the frame.Nice

 

I would either level it, with the torsion keys which raises the front a bit. On the other hand if I was actually going to lift the whole thing several inches I'd go with a professional suspension lift kit. They include all the parts necessary including the proper drops for the drive shaft, and trans case. Thousands of bucks but for a higher lift in what you are trying to achieve that is the way to go. Just my crazy opinion.

 

The leveling kit is good for 2-2.5 inches. The next step is from Rancho and is 4 -5 inches and cost 3,400 bucks and only really good for offroad. The leveling kit consist of torsion keys and provides the proper drops for drivetrain,includes. Diff block and rear shackles and handles great on the road. for around 300 bucks.sits perfect with 35,s

 

You have to remember, Colorado are NOT full-time 4WD like the H3. Can a dropped differential, driveshaft, and axles take full time stress?

 

thats the point Its back to original angle and the purpose of the kit. A better question is if you level and Dont correct the angles.