everyone I will get some pics tomorrow, I cannot post them off this PC however if someone wants to help post them that will be great , PM me you E mail and ill shoot them to you thanks,

 

The mod you did works on the Colorado due to the entire mounts of the diff being spaced equally. You only spaced the front half on your H3 and are now putting excessive force on the rear rubber bushing. That bushing will fail over time and then your diff will break as a result if it happens while offroading.

AsI attempted to point out to you last month, your mod has been tried before by guys with H3's several years ago and was proven unsuccessful. But you refuse to accept the advice of those that have spent years wrenching and offroading H3's.

Carry on...

 

im in this only in the interest of accuracy and will not be doing it,but it looks like people read one thing and see another. the inaccuracies are entertaining




Quote:


Originally Posted by happythree
what am I missing? I crawled under and put my finger between the front diff and the crossmember below. it was a tight fit. how do you drop the diff without hitting? its about 3/8 inch.
the cross member at the rear Diff mount remains untouched, The front two diff mounting bolts drop one inch.and theres an included shim for the front skid plate mount if thats where you concerned about the 3/8 inch clearance.. [/QUOTE]

no,! if you read my post,its the space between the diff and the crossmember. but the rotation covers that.

then this;

[QUOTE That bushing will fail over time and then your diff will break as a result if it happens while offroading.
][/QUOTE]

that's called "fortune telling" since you are predicting what will happen with no proof!

then this;

[QUOTE The increase in drive shaft angle results in ripping of the CV boot (which is apparently crap and extremely sensitive) which eventually requires changing the entire drive shaft. In addition, the combination of a tilted diff and a worn out CM bushing can put more stress on the diff resulting in damage to it. ][/QUOTE]

the driveshaft angle has nothing to do with the cv boot! the boots are on the half shafts.

 

H3 owners have attempted the front diff spacer mod before in the same manner as done by the OP and have had it fail. That isn't fortune telling. That is fact. Proof? Here: Opinions on H3 Differential Drop Spacer

This bit^^^ paints a clear picture of why you shouldn't even be involved in this discussion. Go crawl under your H3 and see what you find at the juncture of the front driveshaft and the transfercase.

You should become more familiar with your vehicle before you post on a forum erroneously calling out others.


.

 

if you reread what you said and how you said it, it can be viewed as your opinion,not fact.

[QUOTE
Quote:
That bushing will fail over time and then your diff will break as a result if it happens while offroading. ][/QUOTE]

so I followed your link and the first guy said"imo" !!,,,so it looked like I was right, until I finally got to the guy who actually had the facts, he had direct experience and sounded like he knew what he was talking about. so the spacer is NOT good. that's what I was trying to get at from the beginning.

so, with rain dripping on my neck I took another look at the driveshaft and sure enuf it has a rubber boot that I had not seen.
the shaft exiting the transfer case is angled , DOWN, and so if the diff rotated down in front with the back going very slightly up, the angle would straighten out a little putting less strain on the boot,so it appears.
the shaft is apx 30 inches long so a 1/2 - 1 inch change at one end wont mean much in angle change anyway,about 1 degree.

so I accept what the guy who knew by direct experience said.but I don't think the driveshaft boot is an issue.

it is important to know that the slight angle in the dv shaft must have been designed that way since the shaft doesn't shift like the rear one does. if there is no angle the u joint gets no flex and can go bad because it that. so if a change up front actually straightened the u joint it may cause it to freeze up the bearings, but not the boot. I don't think that boot is a cv boot as we know them. that was part of the confusion.

I repeat, im just learning,and, looking for accuracy.

 

That boot on the driveshaft is indeed covering a CV joint, not a universal joint.

As indicated in the linked thread above, the H3 and Colorado are entirely different in the manner in which the front diff bolts up to the frame, and that is precisely why that mod is not a direct cross-over for our vehicles.

If you drop/space the front to bolts only, as the OP has done, then you are running the front diff and an angle that is not good for longevity of the rear bushing and is is likely to fail at some point which puts the diff at risk of breaking.

If you were to somehow space/drop the rear bushing mount of the front diff to match the drop of the front two mounts, then the angle of the driveshaft CV joint would be even more severe and the boot and joint would be prone to failure.

When some random guy on a Colorado forum says this mod should work on an H3, it doesn't necessarily mean it's all good just because you can get the spacers to fit in and the truck seems to drive down the road.

 

They have been installing the Kit on H3,s for years. The angle is hardly even noticeable by looking at it. very minor. the correction of the CV angle is noticable. There have been reports for people tearing the rear mount in extreme 4 wheeling even with stock setup. The mount can fail. For the normal driver they are not seeing any problems.. Choose what ever you folks like, I choose to correct the CV angles that ARE failing frequently.. drives perfect and with my use Its not likely I will ever damage the rear mount.If your a heavy off roader I recognize your concern,

 

I've got 2 H3s, one that I used to wheel and the other just to drive. The one I wheeled got the rear diff mount damaged at 50K, the one I used as a pavement princess, 32" tires, I got to change the mount at 35K (on warranty). The one I wheeled is an 06, pavement princess is an 09.

Now the 06 is passed to the wife, the pavement princess is the one I wheel. 50K miles on the ODO, I need to replace the rear diff mount again (also on warranty).

So basically whatever you do, it will go. It simply doesn't last.

 

I have also heard of some with the rear mount failure on stock H3,s . Guess thats my point , you cant say they failed because you added spacers. theres is almost no noticeable change at that location from the spacers. the rubber soft and is designed to move quite a bit during driving, are they under engineered? probably,

 

If the rear diff mount bushings are prone to fail at the stock completely-level orientation, then I'd be inclined to think that adding a bit of tilt to the mount would add much more torque to the rubber bushing.

The rubber mount is a wear item that has indeed been reported to fail in stock form for some owners, but that failure is the exception rather than the norm. However, when adding a bit of tilt to the mount the bushing is now under tension even at rest which pushes the component past it's already fragile limit and failure now becomes the norm rather than the exception.

As far as suggesting that there is 'no noticable change by adding spacers' to your naked eye, well there is also no noticable difference to the CV joint angle to the naked eye between 24.25" of lift and at 23.75" of lift, but there is sure a huge reported increase in failure of cv joints when adding that extra half inch of lift.

When dealing with carefully engineered components that have been aready pushed to their near limit by the factory, it doesn't take much to push them to premature failure. .02.