That was nothing more than an illustration . .Its not near 8 inches either, I will get the exact measurement. you should do the same. that way we wont argue the measurement..Beside cereal Is bad for you and loaded with sugars

 

less means more angle.
sugar in cereal?. another assumption huh, not in mine. see how stuff gets made up.

 

I bet the box is smaller than it used to be as well And their lying to you ,Tons a sugar!..Anyway if there is any concern with the rear mount angle I would have fixed it, Its extremely easy to tilt the mount, A simple wedge 1/16 on end tapered to a point on other end with a few holes in it ,insert between the frame and mount-I,m not seeing any problem so dont intend to do it, However those who believe its the end all. Just tilt it,

 

guys this isnt constructive. I did ask on another forum and got a response from someone who has done it. If you search on google u'll probably get his response. Although he did note that with the new aftermarket differential bushings available on the market, he can't say if it would be an issue.

byeatts, Ive asked at the start of this thread for pictures if possible. It would be great if you would chime in later on this thread and update us on how this mod is going (good or bad) and what improvements have you done (if any).

Disclaimer: I'm not encouraging anything, just let the guy do what he wants and tell us what we want to know. Its his truck, his mod, his money after all.

 

I think of this like those ready lift leaving kits for coil overs. You know pop out the coil over and the place a 1"-2" block between the coil and the coil tower which in turn pushes the coil down and raise the body.

So the diff block push down the diff and rise the frame to keep the CV's at the OEM angle. I'm not happy sitting at 23.5 and have tore a CV boot going 24" but was happy with the look and cleaners. This is a mod I plan to take on as long everything works out so byeatts taking this on will for make this a go or no-go for me.

Photo from Optrix
355nation.com

 

I will take some pic after My PCM4less returns for the third time, setting back to stock and will run Jet 4 now , It ran pretty strong..wont be till next weekend before I will have the rig in the shop for some pics.

 

Ok, byeatts I have two h3s, an 07 and a 09 3T. I run 33" on the 07 stock set up. I run 315/70/17 on the T with the front at 24". Per a bad alignment I replaced the cv joints at 25,000 miles and now with 50,000 miles and still at 24" I decided to try this mod. I built two spacers, dropped the front of the diff 1" and to my surprise, the T cv's are a lot closer to the 07! MAJOR DIFFERANCE! Next, I checked the angle on the front driveshaft on both to see the change measuring from the trans heat shield to the shaft, maybe a 1/16 difference! No added stress in the driveshaft boot at all. Next, check the mount on the rear diff mount, not bound or stressed at all. If I have to replace the rear bushing often I will mod the crossmember to drop the rear an inch because I can! The less stress on the cv's is what rules here, from cost savings to reliability it is a no-brainer!

 

It must be great to have a side by side on the spot!!! This mod has made my list for sure and thanks for giving this a shot. If you could post pictures of your 07 and your T on the key that would be a huge a help.

 

+1 to that!

Plus the old CM bushings were a POS. Perhaps with the new after market ones, the issues that other people faced would no longer be the case...

 

I recently had readylift 2.25"front and 1.5' rear installed with 35" tires. two days later had to replace cv joints. just got it back today and have serious vibration. measured from axle to fender at 25". looks like Im screwed. can I just lower the torsion bars to 23.5" or will I need to take the lift off.