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Rusty frame cleanup project.

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  #41  
Old 05-16-2019, 10:47 AM
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when i was addressing my heavy chassis rust it brought a big smile to my face when i saw the previous owner had already replaced all the brake lines all the way to the master cylinder with stainless lines. they even replaced the brake hoses with braided stainless lines. that definitely helped me cope with how bad it sucked to be under the hummer knocking / chiseling rust off.
for me the other things i found where rotted parking brake lines, seized parking brake lever where the cable goes connected to the backing plate.and that my entire rear suspension was shot. oh and that i need a new rear tow hitch bar and bumper and rocker protect bars. driveshafts look horrible as well. but i will let sleeping dogs lie on that call.
 

Last edited by bronxteck; 05-16-2019 at 10:57 AM.
  #42  
Old 05-16-2019, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by bronxteck
when i was addressing my heavy chassis rust it brought a big smile to my face when i saw the previous owner had already replaced all the brake lines all the way to the master cylinder with stainless lines. they even replaced the brake hoses with braided stainless lines. that definitely helped me cope with how bad it sucked to be under the hummer knocking / chiseling rust off.

Score! Lol I wish I could say the same. My next fear is what will happen when I bleed the lines out.
 
  #43  
Old 05-16-2019, 02:33 PM
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My brakes lines rusted out, So I had them replaced 5 years ago. I used https://classictube.com/product/humm...4200520062007/

2003 H2
 
  #44  
Old 05-16-2019, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by h2inmd
My brakes lines rusted out, So I had them replaced 5 years ago. I used https://classictube.com/product/humm...4200520062007/

2003 H2

Thank you. This looks like a pretty good deal. I saved the link. I worked on the frame all day. I have about 5 hours into it so far. I am down to the wire brushes. Have 2 left. Once I use those up I’ll start the cleaning process. I want to paint Saturday. I was able to get to a lot. But it’s not 200%. I’d need to disassemble the whole thing and remove the body to get what I really want. But it’s going to look a lot better, and last a lot longer. The rust was all surface. It cleaned up pretty well. I did find a little rot in the rear gas tank support... I cleaned it up and will seal it up with the rust Encapsulator. Can’t wait to paint. I hope it looks good. The goal is the frame and crossmembers only. If I have any paint left I’ll do the rear axle, and then I’d also like to coat the underside of the body too. I do not plan to paint the other suspension parts, I’d like to replace with new... we’ll see what I end up doing.

I also suspect that once I start replacing the brake lines something else will go wrong. I’ve done this kind of thing a few times and it just seems to work out that way. Bolts snap, bleeders brake off inside calipers, you name it. We will see.

Getting there.
 

Last edited by myrddin; 05-16-2019 at 08:09 PM.
  #45  
Old 05-16-2019, 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by h2inmd
My brakes lines rusted out, So I had them replaced 5 years ago. I used https://classictube.com/product/humm...4200520062007/

2003 H2
That kit looks like the lines my truck has installed
good to know they also make the fuel / vapor lines and transmission lines in stainless steel.
 

Last edited by bronxteck; 05-17-2019 at 11:58 AM.
  #46  
Old 05-20-2019, 07:25 PM
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Alright folks. Few updates.

1. Do not get the foam brush from Eastwood. They fell apart while I was applying the rust Encapsulator platinum and I ended up with paint all over my hands and legs and arms. It’s not please t and nothing will take it off.

2. I had enough to do the frame and crossmembers only as far as the rust Encapsulator. The extreme satin black was enough to do the frame, crossmembers and some suspense parts. I even started my rear axle (which went south when the brake line broke).

3. the wire brushes they sell that go into the drill are helpful. But beware. I had one come apart on me and the wire spit out and hit me directly in the face.

4. The rust Encapsulator is hard core. It seals really well. I’m impressed.

All in all I’m happy. I want to pick up some more extreme chassis black to get the wheel well areas better and the rear axle. I ordered a new diff cover and bolts, as well as a new tracbar just because it will look nicer and I’d rather not paint any more than I need to. So that will be the next project.

I will need to bleed the brakes since it was leaking for a few days. Anyone have the procedure? I don’t have s power blender or anything like that. I just do it old school way. Person on the peddle and I crack the blender. Usually it’s shortest to longest if I remember right.

Once i I get all the trim back on it I’ll take a few pics. It looks nice, rust free, clean frame and a start on SS brake lines. I’m happy so far. It’s not as nice as I wanted it to be because the frame is not 100% smooth but it looks 100 times better.

More info to follow.
 
  #47  
Old 05-20-2019, 07:56 PM
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Longest to shortest I believe? I’m going to drain my brake fluid and replace it because it’s 12 years old and I want a really high temp fluid and I will replace rubber hose with stainless braided. My fluid looks a little darker than it should and it has to be Age because I’m at 27K miles. Brakes and power steering fluid are overlooked by most
 
  #48  
Old 05-20-2019, 09:04 PM
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Yeah I agree. Good to stay on top of things like that. Guessing pass rear to driver rear, then pass front to driver front.
 
  #49  
Old 05-21-2019, 07:22 AM
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I've always done it longest to shortest too... RR, LR, RF, then LF. That being said, I'm not sure if we need to do anything different with these newfangled hydroboost setups with ABS and whatnot. lol
 
  #50  
Old 05-21-2019, 08:34 AM
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I’m about to find out
 


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