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Hummer H2For those who like a little more gleam to their Hummer, the H2 offers a similar rugged look as the H1, but as a lower cost, and with more added features, making it almost a massive luxury SUV.
if you have a propane torch or a map torch you might want to warm up the bleeders a bit then soak in some penetrating fluid first. they do sell bleeder screw at the auto parts so if they are really bad you might want to replace those as it would be cheaper then replacing the calipers.
Man I tried map gas on a propane torch, Pb blaster hit it with s hammer, you name it. I gave up. I have already replaced the rear calipers and pads, just now pulled the front and it’s the same. Going to go get new fro t calipers and pads too. I broke a stud pulling one of the wheels so I need to replace o e of those too. I might have brakes by the end of the day. Also need to get some gas to put I. The tank so I can start it and move it. It takes my whole family to push the thing . So much for shocks. I still may do my bumpers. And the rear axle... diff cover, trackbar and sway bar links showed up today. So once I get all that junk in it will look nice and be ready for another 15 years. I also think I want to paint the bottom of the hummer body black. It’s half yellow, some has no paint (wonder why they rust) and some has flaking paint. So I’ll get that after the bumpers and axle.
What a project. It’s like a snowball going down hill. But it’s looking good! Can’t wait to put my power steps on
Alright I’m stuck.. while removing the front wheels I broke a wheel stud. Also one was stripped, and I noticed one was not seated all the way. So I picked up two wheel studs and usually I can get them to seat by using something g as a spacer and a wheel lug. Well no matter what I do I can’t get them to seat. Anyone know of s trick? I don’t have any power tools or air tools... I haven’t heated them up yet, I have had to do that in the past. Ran out of energy for the day. Will look at it again tomorrow after work.
Ive been really interested in how this turns out. I was about to pay to have this done, but after getting the estimate it suddenly seems like something I want to do myself. I would probably be a lot more detailed then the shop anyhow. I thought my rust was bad until I saw those pics of the yellow one. Mine is just surface, not much flaking, just ugly as hell.
Mine is lifted too, so its obvious to anyone who looks at the truck
if you are having that many issues with studs the safest option would be to replace the entire wheel hub assembly as those studs seem to be compromised. might save you some time and definitely unexpected problems like your wheel passing you on the highway... from what i remember the timken ones are better then the moog ones for longevity .
that "Brain" looking foam is also pooled at the rear tail lights. i saw it there chasing a mysterious "clunk" on takeoffs and stops that drove me crazy. it eventually lead me to the drivers taillight area. it was coming from the black vent cover above the tail light. well behind the outer vent there is another vent with flaps that is clipped into place. it seams it had been disturbed before probably by a body shop and the lower clips that secured it where broken so the vent assembly would swing back and forth like a pendulum and clunk against the outer black vent covers. i wish i would have taken pics but i did not as i was on my 1/2 hour lunch break so no time to waste.
Alright I was able to press the studs in. Pain in the rear. I have the calipers and new pads on. Just need to bleed them out, which I may do tomorrow. Then I need to get some gas so I can start it up. I’ll still paint the bumpers and axle but it will be a few days till I can get to them. I was going to get a local shop to spray them for me but now since my money went to calipers... I’ll just get out some bedliner and spray them down... that will satisfy me till fall I guess. Here are a few pics I took yesterday before I put the trim and wheel well liners back on. It looks pretty good.
that's what mine look like
wow everything looks great. I wish my tow bar look that good. I still have to pull the rear bumper and do what you did. how hard was it to remove the rear bumper? is it as simple as unbolting the shackles?
There are the shackle bolts (2 on the outside and 1 under) then there is a brace behind the bumper (you only need to undo the outer nut that connects to the bumper). The. Disconnect the light in the bumper if you have them. It’s not bad to do.
Yeah buddy, jack stands are there when I’m under it - lol I’m not interested in becoming a Hummer pancake these shots were just spur of the moment. I’ll have more once I can get it out of the garage.
I do do the same by the way. Lots of folks don’t think clearly when working on or under vehicles.
. So much for shocks. I still may do my bumpers. And the rear axle... diff cover, trackbar and sway bar links showed up today. So once I get all that junk in it will look nice and be ready for another 15 years. I also think I want to paint the bottom of the hummer body black. It’s half yellow, some has no paint (wonder why they rust) and some has flaking paint. So I’ll get that after the bumpers and axle. 
