Electric Pusher Fan and Thermostat On Off Setting
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In case anyone wants to do the same, the part numbers used are as follows:
- Fan = 30100401
- Fan mounting brackets (4) = 30130011
- Fan pigtail with AMP connector = FR-PT
- Fan nylon mounting kit = 53500
- 1 inch long x 1/4" bolts and nuts. The 1/4" shaft of the bolt fits too snug in the fan mounting bracket, so the next smaller step down would be better. I had to open up the bracket holes a little.
- Fan = 30100401
- Fan mounting brackets (4) = 30130011
- Fan pigtail with AMP connector = FR-PT
- Fan nylon mounting kit = 53500
- 1 inch long x 1/4" bolts and nuts. The 1/4" shaft of the bolt fits too snug in the fan mounting bracket, so the next smaller step down would be better. I had to open up the bracket holes a little.
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 8,999
From: C-Town
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Joined: Sep 2012
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Being bored at home due to COVID, I ordered a thin electric 16" pusher fan to put in front of my A/C condenser. My Alpha normally runs about mid way or below half on the temperature gauge, except for a few times I have been waiting for my son at school in 100 degrees weather with the A/C on. The temp gauge, which I know is not accurate, crept up to over 3/4 on the temperature gauge, prompting me to panic and turn off the A/C. So I want a fan to counteract this once every 4 months pre-COVID phenomenon. Yes I am bored, so have to find some car projects to do.
I have a "185 degree on / 160 degree off" temperature probe that's supposed to insert in the radiator fins. Do you think this temperature setting is too low for the Alpha, causing the fan to run too often? I am also considering just controlling the fan with a manual switch mounted on the center console rather than an automatic switch, because I will need to use it so infrequently. An automatic switch is an easier and cleaner installation though. I don't want the fan wired to come on with the A/C, because I won't need to use the fan 99% of the times I have the A/C on.
PS - that's why I need to relocate my aftermarket transmission cooler. It is now mounted vertically in front of the A/C condenser, on the passenger side.
I have a "185 degree on / 160 degree off" temperature probe that's supposed to insert in the radiator fins. Do you think this temperature setting is too low for the Alpha, causing the fan to run too often? I am also considering just controlling the fan with a manual switch mounted on the center console rather than an automatic switch, because I will need to use it so infrequently. An automatic switch is an easier and cleaner installation though. I don't want the fan wired to come on with the A/C, because I won't need to use the fan 99% of the times I have the A/C on.
PS - that's why I need to relocate my aftermarket transmission cooler. It is now mounted vertically in front of the A/C condenser, on the passenger side.
With respect to controlling the fan, if you have an 08+ H3 you can get the pcm to run it based on ac pressure and coolant temps, and it will even shut off as speeds above 45 mph (like any oem with an electric fan)
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 6,126
From: SE Michigan
The "pink milkshake" is caused by>>>>> overheating the coolant. Stay below 210° coolant temp, if not separation/crack can occur within the radiator trans cooler. Check coolant temp/trans fluid temp,under normal operating conditions,your trans fluid will be -30°+ below, with an oem cooler in the rad. However, if that coolant temp goes too high, you may experience a "pink milkshake"
I can see poor design and inferior materials but "overheating the coolant", you are just laughable sometimes.
Oh, I do monitor both engine temp and trans temp. Once the engine temp hits 200+ the trans is soon to follow up and over the 200 mark too.
Especially when crawling @ 2mph for several hours. Not with completely separate cooling systems though.
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I was thinking about the PCM reprogramming to control the fan, but didn't want to complicate the OEM setup was my first response. Would I have to send the PCM out to get it reprogrammed? Anyone on here does that sort of thing?
So for the fan center bolt rubbing on the A/C condenser, does that happen because the air, as the truck drives, pushes the fan onto the condenser over time?
So for the fan center bolt rubbing on the A/C condenser, does that happen because the air, as the truck drives, pushes the fan onto the condenser over time?
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 8,999
From: C-Town
I CALL BS on your statement that "overheating the coolant" causes the plastic to crack between the engine radiator and trans cooler.
I can see poor design and inferior materials but "overheating the coolant", you are just laughable sometimes.
Oh, I do monitor both engine temp and trans temp. Once the engine temp hits 200+ the trans is soon to follow up and over the 200 mark too.
Especially when crawling @ 2mph for several hours. Not with completely separate cooling systems though.
I can see poor design and inferior materials but "overheating the coolant", you are just laughable sometimes.
Oh, I do monitor both engine temp and trans temp. Once the engine temp hits 200+ the trans is soon to follow up and over the 200 mark too.
Especially when crawling @ 2mph for several hours. Not with completely separate cooling systems though.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 6,126
From: SE Michigan
I was thinking about the PCM reprogramming to control the fan, but didn't want to complicate the OEM setup was my first response. Would I have to send the PCM out to get it reprogrammed? Anyone on here does that sort of thing?
So for the fan center bolt rubbing on the A/C condenser, does that happen because the air, as the truck drives, pushes the fan onto the condenser over time?
So for the fan center bolt rubbing on the A/C condenser, does that happen because the air, as the truck drives, pushes the fan onto the condenser over time?
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Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 262
My knowledge is very specific on 08+ vehicles that have a seperate pcm and tcm. That E67 pcm has 2 grounds to control 2 seperate fans, or a single 2 speed fan. I can get you the diagram for which pin to look for if you want to do that or if you want to wite a 2 speed fan google GM 2 speed 3 relay method. For the earlier H3s with a single computer module, im not aware if it has provisions for that (it could)
Yes the pcm will need programming, pcmofnc can easily do that but you need to send them your pcm or if you have hptuners it would take 5 mins. Ive already helped my friend (09 Alpha) instal a pusher fan (the same one you got) and get it controlled by the pcm. He had someone do the wiring though.
Yes the pcm will need programming, pcmofnc can easily do that but you need to send them your pcm or if you have hptuners it would take 5 mins. Ive already helped my friend (09 Alpha) instal a pusher fan (the same one you got) and get it controlled by the pcm. He had someone do the wiring though.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 262
I CALL BS on your statement that "overheating the coolant" causes the plastic to crack between the engine radiator and trans cooler.
I can see poor design and inferior materials but "overheating the coolant", you are just laughable sometimes.
Oh, I do monitor both engine temp and trans temp. Once the engine temp hits 200+ the trans is soon to follow up and over the 200 mark too.
Especially when crawling @ 2mph for several hours. Not with completely separate cooling systems though.
I can see poor design and inferior materials but "overheating the coolant", you are just laughable sometimes.
Oh, I do monitor both engine temp and trans temp. Once the engine temp hits 200+ the trans is soon to follow up and over the 200 mark too.
Especially when crawling @ 2mph for several hours. Not with completely separate cooling systems though.
I had the same temps until I got the trans cooler seperated from the radiator. It was a 50* drop on road, 30* drop off.
with respect to the milkshake, its not a Hummer only issue, other automakers get that too. Radiator breaks internally, water goes to trans, oil goes to engine, you get an overheat and the trans goes out at the same time, or just the trans
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 6,126
From: SE Michigan
+1
I had the same temps until I got the trans cooler seperated from the radiator. It was a 50* drop on road, 30* drop off.
with respect to the milkshake, its not a Hummer only issue, other automakers get that too. Radiator breaks internally, water goes to trans, oil goes to engine, you get an overheat and the trans goes out at the same time, or just the trans
I had the same temps until I got the trans cooler seperated from the radiator. It was a 50* drop on road, 30* drop off.
with respect to the milkshake, its not a Hummer only issue, other automakers get that too. Radiator breaks internally, water goes to trans, oil goes to engine, you get an overheat and the trans goes out at the same time, or just the trans
X2 on the milkshake, plenty with plastic rads have had the same issues regardless of brand.
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