Electric Pusher Fan and Thermostat On Off Setting
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Joined: Feb 2019
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Electric Pusher Fan and Thermostat On Off Setting
Being bored at home due to COVID, I ordered a thin electric 16" pusher fan to put in front of my A/C condenser. My Alpha normally runs about mid way or below half on the temperature gauge, except for a few times I have been waiting for my son at school in 100 degrees weather with the A/C on. The temp gauge, which I know is not accurate, crept up to over 3/4 on the temperature gauge, prompting me to panic and turn off the A/C. So I want a fan to counteract this once every 4 months pre-COVID phenomenon. Yes I am bored, so have to find some car projects to do.
I have a "185 degree on / 160 degree off" temperature probe that's supposed to insert in the radiator fins. Do you think this temperature setting is too low for the Alpha, causing the fan to run too often? I am also considering just controlling the fan with a manual switch mounted on the center console rather than an automatic switch, because I will need to use it so infrequently. An automatic switch is an easier and cleaner installation though. I don't want the fan wired to come on with the A/C, because I won't need to use the fan 99% of the times I have the A/C on.
PS - that's why I need to relocate my aftermarket transmission cooler. It is now mounted vertically in front of the A/C condenser, on the passenger side.
I have a "185 degree on / 160 degree off" temperature probe that's supposed to insert in the radiator fins. Do you think this temperature setting is too low for the Alpha, causing the fan to run too often? I am also considering just controlling the fan with a manual switch mounted on the center console rather than an automatic switch, because I will need to use it so infrequently. An automatic switch is an easier and cleaner installation though. I don't want the fan wired to come on with the A/C, because I won't need to use the fan 99% of the times I have the A/C on.
PS - that's why I need to relocate my aftermarket transmission cooler. It is now mounted vertically in front of the A/C condenser, on the passenger side.
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 8,999
From: C-Town
Definitely don't use the a/c switch nor a manual switch!
Back to your cooler, the method used to determine the correct line to install a transmission cooler on is pretty simple. You want to install the cooler on the return line.To determine which line is the return line you will want to start with your truck totally cooled off. Start the truck and put it in drive, apply the brakes firmly and then apply the accelerator slightly so that the rpms climb. Put the truck back in park and shut it off. Now go out and feel the two lines leaving the radiator. The cooler of the two lines is the return line and the one to install the transmission cooler on.
Back to your cooler, the method used to determine the correct line to install a transmission cooler on is pretty simple. You want to install the cooler on the return line.To determine which line is the return line you will want to start with your truck totally cooled off. Start the truck and put it in drive, apply the brakes firmly and then apply the accelerator slightly so that the rpms climb. Put the truck back in park and shut it off. Now go out and feel the two lines leaving the radiator. The cooler of the two lines is the return line and the one to install the transmission cooler on.
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 8,999
From: C-Town
Btw, do you own a scanner with live data? Temp probe on the radiator does not show the actual coolant temp. You can get yourself a Probe digital thermometer to show actual temp on the fins at engine operating temperature, yet still need to know the coolant temperature. 2 main things for best engine performance, 1-NOT TOO HOT 2-NOT TOO COOL. I recommend 195°-205°, no lower than 195° and max 210° coolant temperature. Use a scanner to check the accuracy of your gauge. Then position your probe and monitor the scanner temp when the fan kicks on and off.
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Hi Hummerz. Thanks for your reply.
I should have explained that my OEM radiator transmission cooler has been replaced by an aftermarket one, 16" H x 10" wide, with the tubing going up and down as follows: "M" , with the lines from the transmission being connected to each foot of the "M". I want to turn the cooler so the tubing of the cooler is going sideways as follows: "E".
Based on what I have read, the bottom line from the transmission pumps fluid out, and in the OEM setup, is connected to the radiator transmission cooler on driver's (left hand) side. My plan is to connect this line to the lower fitting of my aftermarket cooler in the "E", so the fluid from the transmission enters the cooler at the bottom and exits at the top.
Is this the correct way to connect the cooler?
I should have explained that my OEM radiator transmission cooler has been replaced by an aftermarket one, 16" H x 10" wide, with the tubing going up and down as follows: "M" , with the lines from the transmission being connected to each foot of the "M". I want to turn the cooler so the tubing of the cooler is going sideways as follows: "E".
Based on what I have read, the bottom line from the transmission pumps fluid out, and in the OEM setup, is connected to the radiator transmission cooler on driver's (left hand) side. My plan is to connect this line to the lower fitting of my aftermarket cooler in the "E", so the fluid from the transmission enters the cooler at the bottom and exits at the top.
Is this the correct way to connect the cooler?
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 8,999
From: C-Town
I don't understand your "M" & "E"?
First thing you need to understand, inter-cooled is more effective than air-cooled if positioned properly. The oem radiator has the trans cooler at the bottom of the radiator(coolest part). If you want to lower the transmission fluid temp, you add a cooler on the return line(for extreme driving conditions only). If you bypass the radiator transmission cooler, you will increase transmission fluid temp when relying only on an air-cooled transmission cooler.
First thing you need to understand, inter-cooled is more effective than air-cooled if positioned properly. The oem radiator has the trans cooler at the bottom of the radiator(coolest part). If you want to lower the transmission fluid temp, you add a cooler on the return line(for extreme driving conditions only). If you bypass the radiator transmission cooler, you will increase transmission fluid temp when relying only on an air-cooled transmission cooler.
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 6,126
From: SE Michigan
WOW, hummerz you are thick some times.
People have been completely bypassing the trans cooler in their H3/H3Ts radiator for years due to the "pink milkshake".
I have done it also on both of our current rigs.
coolvibes, I'm assuming the "M" & "E" are on some type of diagram that came with your trans cooler. without posting the diagram we have no idea what you are trying to convey.
I have a fan on my trans cooler that uses a thermostat 180 on & 165 off works very well. The cooler the better for transmissions.
A switch is not a bad idea either. If you know there are certain situations when you will need the fan.
I would also suggest get an OBDII blue-tooth dongle and Torque pro (or ScangaugeII) to monitor the actual temps of the engine and trans.
People have been completely bypassing the trans cooler in their H3/H3Ts radiator for years due to the "pink milkshake".
I have done it also on both of our current rigs.
coolvibes, I'm assuming the "M" & "E" are on some type of diagram that came with your trans cooler. without posting the diagram we have no idea what you are trying to convey.
I have a fan on my trans cooler that uses a thermostat 180 on & 165 off works very well. The cooler the better for transmissions.
A switch is not a bad idea either. If you know there are certain situations when you will need the fan.
I would also suggest get an OBDII blue-tooth dongle and Torque pro (or ScangaugeII) to monitor the actual temps of the engine and trans.
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 13,090
From: Boat Town USA MI
Who is thick??????? M is a letter, E is a letter. When you turn an "M" 1/4 rotation counter clockwise you sort of get an "E". In other words, he wants the cooler lines to connect horizontally instead of vertically from the bottom.
BTW, 3/4 on the Temp Gauge is not anywhere near an overheat. H3s have 3 layers of protection for that, you need do nothing. 1) When the truck starts to get very Hot it will turn off your AC all by itself and display "AC OFF" in the DIC. 2) If it Continues to get hotter it will then display ENG HOT in the DIC and chime "ding, ding, ding" like saying HEY LOOK AT THIS, CHIT IS GETTING HOT!. If it still gets hotter, it will go into reduced power mode and display alternating ENG HOT Reduced Pwr and chime. By then I would think the driver gets it and either shuts it off or looks for some problem, like a coolant leak etc....
Your project sounds like a cool one.
Like Taint said....Look into getting either pocket scanner that links to a smart phone or a Scan Gauge II so you can look real time at the actual temp as the temp gauge in the dash is more like and idiot light with a needle.
BTW, 3/4 on the Temp Gauge is not anywhere near an overheat. H3s have 3 layers of protection for that, you need do nothing. 1) When the truck starts to get very Hot it will turn off your AC all by itself and display "AC OFF" in the DIC. 2) If it Continues to get hotter it will then display ENG HOT in the DIC and chime "ding, ding, ding" like saying HEY LOOK AT THIS, CHIT IS GETTING HOT!. If it still gets hotter, it will go into reduced power mode and display alternating ENG HOT Reduced Pwr and chime. By then I would think the driver gets it and either shuts it off or looks for some problem, like a coolant leak etc....
Your project sounds like a cool one.
Like Taint said....Look into getting either pocket scanner that links to a smart phone or a Scan Gauge II so you can look real time at the actual temp as the temp gauge in the dash is more like and idiot light with a needle.
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Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 45
Just an update: I have partially installed the pusher fan. It is a 16" SPAL slim / low profile, and it fits between the vertical hood latch support bracket and the A/C condenser. No cutting of the factory sheet metal needed. The 4 mounts on the fan are in an "X" configuration. The two lower ones are the "push through plastic rod with tabs" type which go through the fan housing, the A/C condenser, and the radiator fins. The upper two use metal brackets which are bolted to the hood slam panel (I drilled two holes immediately in front of the upper radiator tank); these will support the weight of the fan, while the lower ones are primarily for locating.
Unfortunately the fan now sits where my aftermarket tranny cooler was, so I am wondering, what size transmission cooler do you guys use, and where do you locate it? Mine is 16" x 10" and it was mounted vertically on / in front of the A/C condenser.
Unfortunately the fan now sits where my aftermarket tranny cooler was, so I am wondering, what size transmission cooler do you guys use, and where do you locate it? Mine is 16" x 10" and it was mounted vertically on / in front of the A/C condenser.
