Hey Jay if you replaced the resistor with a new one it is going to fail again!

We are also from the South Texas. We are in Harlingen.

 

it looks like soldering IS the solution since it makes a very low,zero resistance joint,hence no heat. if you use squeese on conn,the problem just gets a later date stamp put on it!!
i think the guys who solder will find you need some paste flux like radio shack has. that makes solder flow and spread and stick nice and shiny.

look for solder flux,non corrosive.

oh yeah,,ps,,its not the resistor,its the conn.

 

Well it may happen again but but the original lasted for 6 years of use her in the Houston area and $60.00 buck plus 20 min. of my tinme is no big deal. It works and I am happy. Thanks

 

hey is the resistor supposed to get real hot. I have mine out and does the fan cool it when its mounted inside

 

Just had to do mine at work used spade connectors and removed the melted clip. It had a part number on it so it was replaced before.

 

Yes resistor gets hot, during the summer with cool ac air should be ok, but during winter when you use the heat might enhance the problem.

 

Here's what I did; soldered the wires from the burnt connector to the resistor pack, worked for about a day and that was the end of that, replaced the resistor and wired it a little better. I ran new connectors from each wire and plugged it into the new resistor. Still didn't work. Pulled the motor out (which is easier than it looks. After you've removed everything that you've already removed to take out the harness and resistor, just unscrew three screws. Takes a little wiggling around, but easily comes out. The top screw is the hardest but a 1/4" wrench with a socket that fits, can't remember what size, gets it fairly easy.) And found the relay on the motor to be inop. Motor runs fine when directly powered from a 12v source. (I used a battery charger with a jump fnction.) Relay had some spots that looked like it got hot. Got one ordered for $15 through o'reilys. If this fixes the issue ill update this. I'm sure it will since I get power, but with the $25 resistor pack and a $15 relay, a little headache, its a lot better than the $175 the local hummer dealer wanted and if the relay was on its way out that wouldn't have even fixed it.

 

Didn't work.... Any suggestions?

 

yEP THAT WAS THE PROBLEM WITH MY WIFES CAR TOO. CHANGED RESISTOR AND WIRING HARNESS OUT. BOUGHT PARTS AT DEMONTROND IN HOUSTON 96.00$ BUT CHEAPER THAN AC SHOP! THANKS

 

Followed directions provided by cdobis with exception to removing the dash end cover and soldering the new wires to the white connector. Was able to access the connectors by removing only the glovebox. Tried soldering the new wires to the connector using two diferent types of solding irons. Solder would not adhere to the tabs. Used female bayonet fittings (crimp type) with a small piece of electrical tape wrapped around the bare metal on the connector. After the installation of the crimps onto the white connector tabs, noticed that it was a very tight fit and vibration may cause shorting between the wires. Bent every other tab upwards and remaining tabs downward to limit contact. One precaution was not noted. Do not operate the fan with the resistor assembly not reinstalled back in its original position as the airflow across the resistor keeps it cool. After installation I had three speeds instead of four. This was fixed by reaching in and gently spreading the wires apart. Easy fix at a cost of a few crimp connectors. The GM engineers must have been on crack when they designed this fan control method.