ABS Fault, Traction Control Failure, Service Stab Sys.
You can climb under the truck with the key on and have someone press the buttons. You can hear the encoder motor actuate and the hubs lock. But if that doesn’t happen you won’t know if it’s the switch or the motor. I’m sure you can google a test procedure to measure the output of the switch and the voltage at the motor itself. Without my shop key here to look at I can’t help much more than that.
You can climb under the truck with the key on and have someone press the buttons. You can hear the encoder motor actuate and the hubs lock. But if that doesn’t happen you won’t know if it’s the switch or the motor. I’m sure you can google a test procedure to measure the output of the switch and the voltage at the motor itself. Without my shop key here to look at I can’t help much more than that.
I honestly doubt it’s the buttons cus they flash when I press on them but then it doesn’t like switch. And then I get the error. And before when I got the 2 codes and then it went away when I was driving it was shifting between the buttons then all the sudden it won’t switch anymore . So I am really more learning toward encoder or TCCM.
I can’t get the hyper link to work but here’s the process for testing the motor.
Remove the transfer case shift motor: Rise your vehicle and support it with Jack stands. Slide under and locate the transfer case motor. It looks like a window motor and it sits on the rear of your transfer case. It usually has 3-4 bolts holding it. Remove the bolts and unplug the wiring connectors. Remove the transfer case motor and place it on a table to carry out the test.
Test the transfer case motor with a test light (Ohm preferably): locate the yellow and orange wire on the actuator because that controls the motor. These two wires go into the motor itself. Set the Ohm to 200 ohms. Then, place the probes on the orange and yellow wires. You should be getting around 2.2 – 2.7. Anything above this range is abnormal and shows you have a fault shift motor.
Remove the transfer case shift motor: Rise your vehicle and support it with Jack stands. Slide under and locate the transfer case motor. It looks like a window motor and it sits on the rear of your transfer case. It usually has 3-4 bolts holding it. Remove the bolts and unplug the wiring connectors. Remove the transfer case motor and place it on a table to carry out the test.
Test the transfer case motor with a test light (Ohm preferably): locate the yellow and orange wire on the actuator because that controls the motor. These two wires go into the motor itself. Set the Ohm to 200 ohms. Then, place the probes on the orange and yellow wires. You should be getting around 2.2 – 2.7. Anything above this range is abnormal and shows you have a fault shift motor.
I can’t get the hyper link to work but here’s the process for testing the motor.
Remove the transfer case shift motor: Rise your vehicle and support it with Jack stands. Slide under and locate the transfer case motor. It looks like a window motor and it sits on the rear of your transfer case. It usually has 3-4 bolts holding it. Remove the bolts and unplug the wiring connectors. Remove the transfer case motor and place it on a table to carry out the test.
Test the transfer case motor with a test light (Ohm preferably): locate the yellow and orange wire on the actuator because that controls the motor. These two wires go into the motor itself. Set the Ohm to 200 ohms. Then, place the probes on the orange and yellow wires. You should be getting around 2.2 – 2.7. Anything above this range is abnormal and shows you have a fault shift motor.
Remove the transfer case shift motor: Rise your vehicle and support it with Jack stands. Slide under and locate the transfer case motor. It looks like a window motor and it sits on the rear of your transfer case. It usually has 3-4 bolts holding it. Remove the bolts and unplug the wiring connectors. Remove the transfer case motor and place it on a table to carry out the test.
Test the transfer case motor with a test light (Ohm preferably): locate the yellow and orange wire on the actuator because that controls the motor. These two wires go into the motor itself. Set the Ohm to 200 ohms. Then, place the probes on the orange and yellow wires. You should be getting around 2.2 – 2.7. Anything above this range is abnormal and shows you have a fault shift motor.
thsts awesome I will give it a try on my day off
Thank you
could just also pull it off and cycle through the 4x4 modes while it is hanging connected down there and see if it moves. if it moves then the shift fork it moves inside the transfer case might be toast
thats a great idea too sir I’ll give it a try this weekend
I swapped the TCCM with my friend and it didn’t fix the problem so it’s not the TCCM. When I click on the button for 4high lock I do hear a sound from under the car like a click then it give me the error after the click.. and it won’t let me go back to even regular 4 wheel drive. hmmmm ideas? I am still going to get the encoder on the weekend
I swapped the TCCM with my friend and it didn’t fix the problem so it’s not the TCCM. When I click on the button for 4high lock I do hear a sound from under the car like a click then it give me the error after the click.. and it won’t let me go back to even regular 4 wheel drive. hmmmm ideas? I am still going to get the encoder on the weekend


