Oh, I measured the battery and tray and found one with 1000 cca at Auto Zone that was cheaper than the one they were recommending. You just need to remove the little ears on the battery tray.

 

I have the Topdon BT 200 mainly for the internal resistance check, I find it works best if the battery cables are disconnected, I also have a carbon pile load tester to back up the Topdon

Neal

 

On my 2015 caddy there are some hidden remote functions like that, didn't know it also worked on the H2, I'll have to investigate and see what works.

Thanks for the info,

Neal

 

1. What battery do you recommend?
2. I will check for itm there is something with a switch and 2 relays. If had it on or off just to see if it did anything different. But it didn't.
3. How can I isolate the alternator and starter wire. When I put different terminals on for my new aftermarket radio. I seperate those 2 and individually tapped them into the terminal. Juuusssst Incase.

Last weekend something interesting. Saturday, I said ok let me electrically disconnect the starter from both wires at the starter considering the starter draws the most current that quick. Maybe starter is grounded out. When I went to remove the smaller wire, but didn't even turn the stud broke right of. Now I'm screwed and have to get a new starter anyway. Removed the starter, I shook it not to hard and there was clicking like something in side was going back and forth. Before I put the new starter in, I wire wheeled both terminals that kinda looked like crap but who knows if it was enough. Then i go and see if I got a big voltage drop just in the on position with the starter disconnect. I didn't have any drop. Not in start, just in run. Now overnight I had it on the charger on it. Sunday morning with a full battery and starter in. Cranked right up, but didn't seem to powerfully of a start, or it could be mental. Or could be that optima battery. Let it run for a little. Turned off a few times. Didn't go below 12.5 volts area.
today I came home from work. Ok truck is good, let. Me wash is. Turn the key, click nothing. And the battery has 11.6.. volt. Not 12, but didn't even crank, just click..... Click..... Click. When I put it back the ac goes. Back to 11.6 volts
Only got the battery few months ago and I don't drive it that much this season. Maybe I'll return it to AutoZone. And get something that should go in there?

This is the battery that I went threw 2 of.
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/battery/p/optima-agm-yellow-top-battery-dh6-group-size-h6-ln3-800-cca/937705_0_0

Danny

 

Very typical of an agm that has been gassed-out due to improper charging, typically overcharging. The damage comes from buckled / shorted plates. Most common way to damage an agm is to let it discharge getting hard sulfated. Hard sulfation physically expands and can break plates and grids.

 

Or do I suck it up and go overkill a little and go with an xspower d4800?

 

Ordered the xm battery. Let you guys know how it goes. If I can't get store credit from AutoZone. I'll just take the replacement and sell it as new with the recipt

 

New xm battery in. Starts up like a rocket. Interesting thing I found after, when the center console is down some of the traction and 4wheel lights go off, put the glove box up, lights come back on. But the inconvenient bulb wasn't blown. I pulled the light out. Back to normal. So I just left it out. Can live without a center console light till I dive in to that thing

 

I have a 2008 H2. I'm not sure about any other years. My hatch lock just went out so, i guess I'll have to find a different thread now for that.