Thanks for the info guys, much appreciated.

Yes wrong time of year, I've been working in 38deg so its been cold, wet and dark most of the time and with bad flu its been tough.

I took out the key body mount bolt as a test, it was still in good condition, so one "worm" less but that could just be lucky.

I'm going to try and "finagle" (that's a word I'd never come across befor - very apt!) the lines through to see how it goes first and take it from there. Will keep you posted.

 

Update

To access the top rear brake-line to flexi-hose bracket I had to remove the AS Unit and drop trhe rear end, unfortunately this impedes accees to the lower bracket so in the final stage I'll have to re-install the AS Unit, raise the back-end and deal with the lower bracket (real pain)

So took-out 5 of the LHS body mount bolts, slackened the RHS bolts missing out the ones near the Air Suspension (not sure if they needed to come out particularly as the AS was deflated?)


Borrowed and impact driver which helped a enormously, TBH the bolts were all good, although some of the mounts were very rusty (another job for another day) the ones at the fron were both filled with water!





Anyway I fabiricated a wooden block and jacked-up the LHS close to structural point under the driver's door, and then removed the two mounts impeding installation.

So with a bit "finagling" I managed to install the 2 rear brake lines without too much difficulty, would have been close to impossible without the lift!

So ABS Pump is piped-up, just need to reconnect the rear-end.

Thanks again for the tips and advice!

Keep you posted

 

good job!!

 

My back would be hurting by now, don't recommend "Preformed lines". Stay strong, make sure to properly secure, and "GRAVITY BLEED" the new fluid, before you pressure bleed. GL

 

should probably take a look at the top of your fuel pump while you have the body of the rails to see if it is corroding or leaking.

 

Great job in getting that done on a gravel driveway!

 

MixManSC
Appreciated trhe tips, yes indeed I know my fuel pump need changing, so far I've ordered genuine ACD from Rock on three occasions, each time they got broke in transit, a real problem for returns back from UK. Still thinking about that one, too late on this occasion.

Tried gravity bleeding as suggested, very little fed through. The SS lines are real hard to "seal" guess where it was the most difficult - yep the ABS pump!!

So fater several hours I finally managed to stop thye pump from leaking, as for tightening the glands they must be on their stress-limit. Think I'll get it warmed-up and double check for leaks.

Anyway I'ver been for a spin, brakes are same or as bad as before, now time for new shoes.

BTW is there a tip for bleeing? TBH the autobleed did OK but I'm not sure if I've quite got the knack, its hard to do on your own.

 

Is the brake pedal high and hard? Does it hold the height when pressure is applied? Rig something from pedal to seat(eg. snow brush) press pedal and prop against seat to hold pressure, then try to spin all 4 wheels(if any wheel moves, you have air at that wheel). If pedal is spongy, or sinks when holding pressure, you still have air in the system. You should also bleed the master, while holding pressure loosen 1 fitting at a time until fluid leaks, 2 seconds, tighten. Best to have an assistant. Pump pedal, hold, open bleeder, 2seconds, close. Repeat until you get all fluid and no air. GL

 

Thanks Hummerz, will do.

As I said the pedal is as before, not hard enough I would say. I'll go round the brakes and master cylinder one more time.