Power Locks and Driver Side Window not working
Two days ago my '07 H3 (purchased in '06) would not start. (It started rough the previous day, but I didn't think much of it because it was about 25 degrees out.) After about 5 attempts I got it started but the radio reset and it was definitely a low voltage start. Then, all of the sudden, the power locks and driver's side window would not work. I took it in to my local shop, where they tested things and advised the battery was just about dead, but no other problems; the alternator was working properly.
So, we chalked it up to a 5 year old battery that just quit, and we replaced it. Everything seemed to come back on line and the truck started fine. Then I noticed that the power locks and driver's side window were still not working! We checked the fuses, and then the shop recommended that I take the H3 to the dealer to take a look at my 'electrical problem'. My bumper-to-bumper warranty expired last year, so the last thing I wanted to do was go to the dealer and get a $1,000.+ estimate.
After reading many posts here, I checked and re-seated the #8 and #68 fuses, to no avail. Then, I disconnected the battery and touched the terminals together, then re-attached the cables and it did NOT fix the problem... Man was I worried!
So, I came back here, and carefully re-read all the posts. Then, I noticed that I had not waited the 5 mins before reconnecting the battery. So, yesterday after work, I tried it again. (I must have waited like 10 mins to make sure). When I reconnected the battery, IT WORKED!!! All is back to normal now with the locks, the driver's side window, and the keyless entry. And.. best of all, I don't have to go in and see the dealer!
Consequently, I also need to give many thanks to my fellow Hummer owners as well as this website!!!
Jeff
So, we chalked it up to a 5 year old battery that just quit, and we replaced it. Everything seemed to come back on line and the truck started fine. Then I noticed that the power locks and driver's side window were still not working! We checked the fuses, and then the shop recommended that I take the H3 to the dealer to take a look at my 'electrical problem'. My bumper-to-bumper warranty expired last year, so the last thing I wanted to do was go to the dealer and get a $1,000.+ estimate.
After reading many posts here, I checked and re-seated the #8 and #68 fuses, to no avail. Then, I disconnected the battery and touched the terminals together, then re-attached the cables and it did NOT fix the problem... Man was I worried!
So, I came back here, and carefully re-read all the posts. Then, I noticed that I had not waited the 5 mins before reconnecting the battery. So, yesterday after work, I tried it again. (I must have waited like 10 mins to make sure). When I reconnected the battery, IT WORKED!!! All is back to normal now with the locks, the driver's side window, and the keyless entry. And.. best of all, I don't have to go in and see the dealer!
Consequently, I also need to give many thanks to my fellow Hummer owners as well as this website!!!
Jeff
You are 110% correct. I think a lot of us just want to get this done and forgot how computerized this vehicle can be. I left mine off the battery for 5 to 10 minutes, reconnected everything works fine. Thank you sir for the great reminder.
I HAVE THE SOLUTION FOR THIS STUPID DOOR LOCK/DRIVER SIDE WINDOW NOT WORKING!!!
Problem: Drivers side window does not work, power door locks do not work.
Cause: Battery died or was disconnected, and then reconnected.
Fix (for me) remove drivers side window switch, unscrew 4 screws to open the switch to get to the electronics.
This is critical - locate the two capacitors on the board. Locate the solder joints of each on the other side of the circuit board (two for each capacitor), temporarily connect these two points with something conductive (like a paper clip). Reinstall in reverse order.
I did not disconnect the battery when doing this.
This worked for me. It has NOTHING to do with the BCM.
Disclaimer: Do at your own risk. This is for information purposes only!
Problem: Drivers side window does not work, power door locks do not work.
Cause: Battery died or was disconnected, and then reconnected.
Fix (for me) remove drivers side window switch, unscrew 4 screws to open the switch to get to the electronics.
This is critical - locate the two capacitors on the board. Locate the solder joints of each on the other side of the circuit board (two for each capacitor), temporarily connect these two points with something conductive (like a paper clip). Reinstall in reverse order.
I did not disconnect the battery when doing this.
This worked for me. It has NOTHING to do with the BCM.
Disclaimer: Do at your own risk. This is for information purposes only!
I HAVE THE SOLUTION FOR THIS STUPID DOOR LOCK/DRIVER SIDE WINDOW NOT WORKING!!!
Problem: Drivers side window does not work, power door locks do not work.
Cause: Battery died or was disconnected, and then reconnected.
Fix (for me) remove drivers side window switch, unscrew 4 screws to open the switch to get to the electronics.
This is critical - locate the two capacitors on the board. Locate the solder joints of each on the other side of the circuit board (two for each capacitor), temporarily connect these two points with something conductive (like a paper clip). Reinstall in reverse order.
I did not disconnect the battery when doing this.
This worked for me. It has NOTHING to do with the BCM.
Disclaimer: Do at your own risk. This is for information purposes only!
Problem: Drivers side window does not work, power door locks do not work.
Cause: Battery died or was disconnected, and then reconnected.
Fix (for me) remove drivers side window switch, unscrew 4 screws to open the switch to get to the electronics.
This is critical - locate the two capacitors on the board. Locate the solder joints of each on the other side of the circuit board (two for each capacitor), temporarily connect these two points with something conductive (like a paper clip). Reinstall in reverse order.
I did not disconnect the battery when doing this.
This worked for me. It has NOTHING to do with the BCM.
Disclaimer: Do at your own risk. This is for information purposes only!

I currently can roll windows down on Passenger front and both back doors. I have no function from the Driver's side Master Switch (lock and windows). I have unconnected the battery cables, touched them together, left off the batter for over 15 minutes and reconnected. I have checked the #6 and #68 fuses and switched the #77 switch with an adjacent of the same type. I have replaced the Master Switch and had the Battery checked at an auto parts store (good condition). Still no function and I think I have exhausted every tip from this post and everything else I have seen online. I do hear a clicking noise in vicinity of the Master Switch after reconnecting the battery and a humming noise when I attempt to operate the locks from the Passenger side (does not operate). Hopefully this is detailed enough for someone to have another thing to try. If not I will inevitably take it back to a mechanic.
It has already been to a mechanic who removed some excess wiring from an aftermarket install. I have also taken it to an auto shop to have an after market car alarm and all associated wiring in hopes that would help.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!
It has already been to a mechanic who removed some excess wiring from an aftermarket install. I have also taken it to an auto shop to have an after market car alarm and all associated wiring in hopes that would help.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!
I currently can roll windows down on Passenger front and both back doors. I have no function from the Driver's side Master Switch (lock and windows). I have unconnected the battery cables, touched them together, left off the batter for over 15 minutes and reconnected. I have checked the #6 and #68 fuses and switched the #77 switch with an adjacent of the same type. I have replaced the Master Switch and had the Battery checked at an auto parts store (good condition). Still no function and I think I have exhausted every tip from this post and everything else I have seen online. I do hear a clicking noise in vicinity of the Master Switch after reconnecting the battery and a humming noise when I attempt to operate the locks from the Passenger side (does not operate). Hopefully this is detailed enough for someone to have another thing to try. If not I will inevitably take it back to a mechanic.
It has already been to a mechanic who removed some excess wiring from an aftermarket install. I have also taken it to an auto shop to have an after market car alarm and all associated wiring in hopes that would help.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!
It has already been to a mechanic who removed some excess wiring from an aftermarket install. I have also taken it to an auto shop to have an after market car alarm and all associated wiring in hopes that would help.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!
On my hummer you need to remove the door lock switch, remove the 4 screws and touch the contacts of the capacitors to discharge them. Trust me this works, all other remedies don't always work. I've done this myself.
The chevy colorado has the same issue and is fixed here.
I currently can roll windows down on Passenger front and both back doors. I have no function from the Driver's side Master Switch (lock and windows). I have unconnected the battery cables, touched them together, left off the batter for over 15 minutes and reconnected. I have checked the #6 and #68 fuses and switched the #77 switch with an adjacent of the same type. I have replaced the Master Switch and had the Battery checked at an auto parts store (good condition). Still no function and I think I have exhausted every tip from this post and everything else I have seen online. I do hear a clicking noise in vicinity of the Master Switch after reconnecting the battery and a humming noise when I attempt to operate the locks from the Passenger side (does not operate). Hopefully this is detailed enough for someone to have another thing to try. If not I will inevitably take it back to a mechanic.
It has already been to a mechanic who removed some excess wiring from an aftermarket install. I have also taken it to an auto shop to have an after market car alarm and all associated wiring in hopes that would help.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!
It has already been to a mechanic who removed some excess wiring from an aftermarket install. I have also taken it to an auto shop to have an after market car alarm and all associated wiring in hopes that would help.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!
I have removed the switch and brought it in the house for 20 min or so and when I re install it it usually warkw, it has taken longer before,so dowing what the last poster said would make sense. Also What usually causes it is the battery connection is poor or the power is low in battery.


