I have scanner but I think I may found what the problem is after I made a lot of research there possibly still air in the coolant system so it’s not allowing it to cool correctly so I burped it and there was alot of air bubbles . Whats weird is that I burped it the first time when I changed all that but I guess it wasn’t enough so now I start it let it warm up rev it snd keep it at like 2500-3000 for few secs then let it idle for little bit and I see bubbles then I turn off the car and redo after it cool down everytime I redo the steps air come out and the more I do it the more it gets less hot so I am gonna keep doing that until no bubbles at all then I’ll retest it and drive it and see if it fixed it . Those stubborn bubbles I wil keep yall updated

 

H3 cooling systems burp themselves (through the Coolant Reservoir), nothing to burp. If you are going to use the Google knuckleheads that posted vids of elaborate H3 burping efforts, do not bother = interweb ignoramus BS.

Your revving is spinning the water pump impeller making a milkshake like in a blender with tiny frothy bubbles..........

Once you get it up to full temp and thereafter allow it to cool, burping happens when the expanded/heated coolant is drawn back into the motor and replaces any air caught in the block/hoses. After the initial 3 or so cycles of doing that, filling the Reservoir to the cold line, the self burping is all done. When it is happening there are large individual bubbles that will easily be seen and heard venting into the Reservoir.

 

BTW... the ScanGauge2 X Gauge code for 2008+ H3s/H3Ts Trans Fluid Temp is: 07E2221940(01) 046205190640 3008 00090005FFD8 TFT.

 

Yes I been seeing big bubbles not small tho but I’ll follow ur method heat up then let it cool I did notice the reservoir is getting less and less coolant it’s like it’s sucking it up

 

so I did the air burping few times until it doesn’t take from the reservoir no more
still at 3/4 mark today and it wasn’t even that hot it was only 85 degrees . I had the ac on and we are at 223F coolant temp like wtf
any other ideas?

 

 

Yes. Find out the Trans Fluid Temp like I suggested back at post #26 a while ago. If my coolant is 195F, my Trans runs about 5F cooler at 190F or less. On occasion they run close to the same (climbing a long hill etc...) Trans almost always cooler.

 

if you think that’s the issue I am gonna put the stock fan back and see if it will make a different

 

I will so do you run until it’s operating temperature and then check the temperature ?

I need to find me a tool to test transmission temp because my scanner doesn’t have transmission temperature as an option

 

I mounted a ScanGauge 2 on my dash in a Daystar Dash Panel over two H3s for years. I have Trans Temp, Coolant Temp, Volts and Intake Air Temp on display. I give them a look when driving after full temp, takes several miles to get there in summer, more in winter. I do look at Trans & Coolant Temp much more often if towing anything or low speed wheeling.

Like Taint said... piece of mind. Maybe, just cool?