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Hummer H3For the Hummer driver who wants the rugged look and off road capabilities of the Hummer, but in a smaller size and with a more fuel economy friendly engine.
haha the fan actually works good like I can feel it pretty good sucking air I am more leaning toward that it can’t suck thro the 4 rows because it’s too thick
haha the fan actually works good like I can feel it pretty good sucking air I am more leaning toward that it can’t suck thro the 4 rows because it’s too thick
It sucks? NOT enough! Why change the OEM clutch fan? My OEM, when clutch is fully engaged, SUCKS!
everyone was telling me to convert to Efan cus it’s better and cool down quicker specially here in Florida humidity and now ur telling me the oem fan is better ?
I'm also running a oem style radiator I got at Autozone (lifetime warranty). Dexcool too.
Very happy with it. Water pump and t-stat basic oem style. Both replaced.
everyone was telling me to convert to Efan cus it’s better and cool down quicker specially here in Florida humidity and now ur telling me the oem fan is better ?
Yes,Indeed!
Look at all the air-flow RESTRICTIONS on your efan.
Your fan is about 500-1000 CFM too light, and the shape of the shroud is not optimal. The vents in the four corners are to let air through when at driving speed, but also allow air to sucked around (backwards) the radiator cooling fins when at slow speed/stopped. If you look at performance radiator shrouds cut from aluminum plate they use flapper vents that only allow air to move in one direction through them so the low speed/stopped problem is eliminated.
Last edited by Doc Olds; Sep 14, 2023 at 10:09 AM.
I am using a digitally controlled SuperModulation SFAN 4500 with dual fans that operate in opposite direction (1 is clockwise, the other counter clockwise). Still have the OEM Radiator. Keeps my cam swapped 5.3L at whatever temp I dial it in for. Would easily do the same for the I5s. The controller ramps up CFM based upon demand, at low it is 1500 CFM, when full on 4500 CFM!
