Hummer H3 For the Hummer driver who wants the rugged look and off road capabilities of the Hummer, but in a smaller size and with a more fuel economy friendly engine.

Front Differential Bushing Stuck on Install

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Old Mar 25, 2023 | 12:42 PM
  #31  
Disel's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Nikal
I’ve never changed the front dif bushings in the Hummer, but I’ve done bushings & races on other parts & vehicles. A trick I’ve learned is to freeze the bushing or bearing race in your freezer. Then the part the bushing or bearing race is going into, add heat to that part. Don’t make it glow, but take a propane torch and heat it up. Then grab your bushing or race and it will darn near drop
in, or atleast press in very easily. Then let it come back to temperature naturally.

We were taught to do this on an aluminum wheel hub on a off road race car when putting new hub bearings in. Because it was aluminum you had to be careful to not cross bind the race as you’re pressing it in the aluminum hub to not score the hub.
By heating the metal, you weaken it.
 
Old Mar 25, 2023 | 01:14 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Disel
on a homemade lathe.
The sleeve is thin and should be pressed in TIGHT, if it moves it will cause wear to the frame! DO NOT MODIFY THE SLEEVE!
 
Old Mar 25, 2023 | 01:30 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by hummerz
The sleeve is thin and should be pressed in TIGHT, if it moves it will cause wear to the frame! DO NOT MODIFY THE SLEEVE!
The sleeve from aliexpress has a larger size. It needs to be removed a bit. I changed twice. One was excellent, the other needed a little chiseling (a couple of microns).
And also the inner hole is much larger than the native mounting bolt. This is specially made at the factory.
 
Old Mar 25, 2023 | 01:53 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Disel
The sleeve from aliexpress has a larger size. It needs to be removed a bit. I changed twice. One was excellent, the other needed a little chiseling (a couple of microns).
And also the inner hole is much larger than the native mounting bolt. This is specially made at the factory.
The inner sleeve can't move after the bolt is properly tightened. The outer sleeve is only held by the pressure it takes to press in, if it moves, metal to metal friction will cause wear to the frame.
 
Old Mar 25, 2023 | 03:57 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Disel
By heating the metal, you weaken it.
Correct, but you’re not heating that much of the crossmember, or that hot. You’re not trying to make it glow. Your engine gets hotter. You’re just trying to add some heat for it to expand a couple thousandth, just as freezing the bushing will shrink it a thousandth. This just helps get it straight and if you don’t have a press, you’re not beating it in.


 
Old Mar 30, 2023 | 10:31 PM
  #36  
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If you want to go with a poly bushing instead like from Badlands for example they just slide in without needing much force. Apparently will last way long than rubber anyway, so worth the extra cost
 
Old Apr 22, 2023 | 04:26 PM
  #37  
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@KU1525 Did you have any problem getting the cross-member mounting bolts out? Were either of the lower A-frame parts in the way? Did you use hand tools to take off the 18MM hex nuts?
 

Last edited by Justinh; Apr 23, 2023 at 05:38 PM.
Old Apr 22, 2023 | 04:58 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Justinh
@KU1525 Did you have any problem getting the cross-member mounting bolts out? Were either of the lower A-frame parts in the way? Did you use hand tools to take off the 18MM nuts?
No problem with anything in the way. I used a basic wrench on one end to hold it and a socket/ratchet on the other like this setup below. I sprayed some PB blaster on the bolts a few minutes before starting but didn’t have any trouble getting them loose.



 
Old Apr 23, 2023 | 05:38 PM
  #39  
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Thanks.
 
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