Hummer H3 For the Hummer driver who wants the rugged look and off road capabilities of the Hummer, but in a smaller size and with a more fuel economy friendly engine.

2006 H3 stab control, heater actuator, passlock: c0240 p2122

Old Oct 25, 2019 | 12:20 PM
  #1  
Whitemountainh3's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 21
Default 2006 H3 stab control, heater actuator, passlock: c0240 p2122

Hey all, new hummer owner here. I’m dealing with some interesting electrical gremlins and I know some of these have been covered in previous topics, but none of them have seem to happen simultaneously like they are with me.
  1. About five days ago I had a notice come up on my screen to service the TPM system. After restarting the engine it did not come back up.
  2. But two days later after about 200 miles of driving and shutting it off and going back to restart, the dreaded passlock problem occurred with the flashing red light and a no start condition. After sitting for about an hour I went to start it and it started fine and has for the last few days with no problems.
  3. Last night while driving home from work I got the stability system traction failure along with a check engine light and reduced power. After sitting all night and driving this morning it seems to drive OK, but the check engine light is still on. At no time does the engine seem to run any differently than normal, it runs very smooth.
  4. My heater does not work. After doing search functions on the forums and doing the reprogramming by holding the AC and the defrost buttons down simultaneously I am assuming it is the actuator door.

I am well aware that all of these are probably separate issues, but my car only has 105,000 miles on it and it’s been meticulously cared for. The battery cable connectors are heavy duty grade and not the original ones. Battery tests fine.

The biggest problem is obviously the reduced power mode. I’m suspecting possible pedal position sensor or TPS, as the codes it is throwing RC0240 and P2122. However, the day before this started occurring one of my kids spilled a large water jug in the backseat for on the passenger side. I know these are prone to water damage from a leaky sunroof, but my car does not have a sunroof. Could that water have damaged the computer?

Thanks for reading and any advice is appreciated!
 
Old Oct 25, 2019 | 01:27 PM
  #2  
Doc Olds's Avatar
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 13,083
From: Boat Town USA MI
Default

I do not have time to look at your codes, but water in the back should not be able to contact the BCM (behind passenger side kick panel) or the PCM, (under the hood behind the windshield wiper tanks).

#1 is easy. If you are still on the original TPMS, their batteries are gonna puke and the TPMS will need to be replaced. Their expected life is 10 years, you got bonus time if they are original.

I'll check back later.
 
Old Oct 25, 2019 | 01:29 PM
  #3  
Whitemountainh3's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 21
Default

Sorry for the typos in my post, the code is actually C0240.
 
Old Oct 25, 2019 | 02:37 PM
  #4  
hummerz's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 8,980
From: C-Town
Default

The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) communicate on the serial data link, whenever the ignition is ON. The EBCM receives a serial data message stating that the PCM has lost the ability to reduce engine torque. A requested torque signal malfunction is only one possible cause for the PCM to lose the ability to perform traction control. DTC C0240 may set due to engine overheating, throttle actuator control failure, loss of ignition timing control by the PCM, etc.

A code P2122 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
TPS not mounted securely
TPS circuit short to ground or another wire
Faulty TPS
Damaged computer (PCM)
Some recommended troubleshooting and repair steps are: Carefully check the throttle position sensor (TPS), wiring connector, and wiring for breaks, etc. Repair or replace as necessary Check the voltage at the TPS. If the voltage is too low that is indicative of a problem. Replace if necessary. If recently replaced the TPS may need to be adjusted. On some vehicles the installation instructions call for the TPS to be properly aligned or adjusted, consult a repair manual for specifics. If there are no symptoms at all, the problem may be intermittent and clearing the code may resolve the issue temporarily. If this is the case then you should definitely check the wiring to be sure it's not rubbing on anything, grounding, etc. The code may come back.
 
Old Oct 25, 2019 | 03:00 PM
  #5  
Whitemountainh3's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 21
Default

Thanks for that info hummerz. Very informative!

I actually ordered both a new TPS and PPS (the gas pedal assembly). While waiting for the parts, I started poking around in the wiring and found the negative battery terminal had some corrosion inside and was actually loose (where the cable is clamped to the terminal). I cleaned, tightened and applied terminal protector. When I started the car the lights were off and I just drove it 30 miles with no trouble. Could a loose ground have caused this?
 
Old Oct 25, 2019 | 03:04 PM
  #6  
hummerz's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 8,980
From: C-Town
Default

Originally Posted by Whitemountainh3
Thanks for that info hummerz. Very informative!

I actually ordered both a new TPS and PPS (the gas pedal assembly). While waiting for the parts, I started poking around in the wiring and found the negative battery terminal had some corrosion inside and was actually loose (where the cable is clamped to the terminal). I cleaned, tightened and applied terminal protector. When I started the car the lights were off and I just drove it 30 miles with no trouble. Could a loose ground have caused this?
Could have caused all of your issues that you posted above. Make sure to properly secure the battery terminals is the 1st step in every electrical issue diagnosis. It wouldn't hurt to clean the connectors with crc electronic cleaner instead of throwing parts at it.
 
Old Oct 25, 2019 | 03:07 PM
  #7  
Whitemountainh3's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 21
Default

Duly noted. I checked the actual terminal connectors and they were tight. Wasn’t until I removed them I noticed corrosion on the actual stranded cable. Yikes if that was it I’m kinda feeling like an idiot...
 
Old Oct 25, 2019 | 03:18 PM
  #8  
hummerz's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 8,980
From: C-Town
Default

I meant to clean the connectors/terminals at the pedal and throttle body. If you want to throw some good parts at it, get some
Stingers Stingers
Best upgrade I have ever made on my H3!
 
Old Oct 25, 2019 | 07:31 PM
  #9  
Whitemountainh3's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 21
Default

Cleaned the connectors. Now after driving it for around 50 miles it’s saying “brakes fluid, Serv 4wd, abs, traction failed”

seems to drive ok at the moment
 
Old Oct 25, 2019 | 08:32 PM
  #10  
hummerz's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 8,980
From: C-Town
Default

Originally Posted by Whitemountainh3
Cleaned the connectors. Now after driving it for around 50 miles it’s saying “brakes fluid, Serv 4wd, abs, traction failed”

seems to drive ok at the moment
Unrelated.
Do you have any signs of rodent infestation?
Also take a close look at your uhfb for corrosion.
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:14 AM.