Hummer H2 For those who like a little more gleam to their Hummer, the H2 offers a similar rugged look as the H1, but as a lower cost, and with more added features, making it almost a massive luxury SUV.

Driving H2 into remote places ( spare parts lost )

Old Aug 17, 2025 | 04:09 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Mark R
Well that's good to here then you know the name of the game. But choose your words carefully....."damage is unlikely"......L.O.L

I have been offroading also for many years and seen damage that could of happened but saved by the rock sliders on Pizza Rock at Rausch Creek Offroad Park.. Those of you who have been there will know PIZZA ROCK...L.O.L. At this point I have chosen not to any more as that can become a money pit and trash the H2 which I plane to keep. Now all my fun and money goes into my 65 Corvette BB502 5 Speed with MSD EFI. Lots of fun and I don't have to swap tires when I take it out...L.O.L.

Sounds like your good to go..
that’s a beautiful engine bay 😍

I have to agree in choosing words carefully,
road conditions always change, experience alone is not enough sometimes,
snd in fact that experience and confidence can get you in trouble.

high Five From another vette owner,
I have few ZO6s and ZR1 on the way.

here is my C6 ZO6 with ZO7 Performance package
signed by corvette chief engineer Tom Wallace.

unfortunately our new home has not so corvette friendly road,
we bought a rural home, to drive the corvettes we have to tow it to nearest asphalt road on a trailer.

this last 3 years we have put less than 100 miles on the concretes
we have been all about outdoors and exploring nature.



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Old Aug 17, 2025 | 04:46 PM
  #32  
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Sweet.. I had a 2009 and the H3 and the sold the 2009 for the new 2009 H2. Then Dumped the H3. So now it's just the H2 and the 65. Been into Vettes all my life .. Started with a 1957 FI car. Then went thru the years. Even had a BB 435 69. And a Bunch more. Had a lot of fun with a Blown 1986 with a Vortech SC.

GM just released the price on the ZR-1X.... Top tear is somewhere around $235,000,00 Get Yah one..LMOA.

Here's the 86..With Alcohol/Water Injection.
 
Old Aug 17, 2025 | 04:58 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Mark R
Sweet.. I had a 2009 and the H3 and the sold the 2009 for the new 2009 H2. Then Dumped the H3. So now it's just the H2 and the 65. Been into Vettes all my life .. Started with a 1957 FI car. Then went thru the years. Even had a BB 435 69. And a Bunch more. Had a lot of fun with a Blown 1986 with a Vortech SC.

GM just released the price on the ZR-1X.... Top tear is somewhere around $235,000,00 Get Yah one..LMOA.

Here's the 86..With Alcohol/Water Injection.
ahh the beautiful C4 ❤️
I ordered ZR1 ZTK Pack,
ZR1X is over 4000 lb SUV not a sports car.

H2 is coming along good
I am debating to put the wheel hubcaps on or leave it off?

new MT tires coming this week, although in Pacific Northwest we need more AT tires, Mojave plateau shreds tires, we don’t see much muddy roads.








 
Old Aug 17, 2025 | 05:21 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by RobertDez
They came from the factory with a small power steering cooler, it's on the front of the radiator, upper driver side. For what you have in mind, I would probably go with a larger one than OEM. There's plenty of room there to do so.

Sounds like yours was a garage Queen like mine.... Although I'm at just over 100,000 miles on a 2003 model.

The factory exhaust usually exits right behind the passenger rear tire.... Tucked in so it doesn't interfere with the rear approach angle. It is common on aftermarket exhausts for people that don't go off-road, to have the pipes exit out the rear. In your case you want to stick to the OEM setup clearly.

The one weak point I would be the most concerned about is the heater hose quick connect at the firewall. You're pretty much past the life expectancy of the OEM plastic connectors, which get brittle with age and simply snap off, empty now your entire cooling system rather quickly. I completely eliminated the factory quick connects.... You can remove them and simply slide 3/4-in silicon heater hose over the heater core nipples at the firewall with standard clamps. Proven reliable for decades. The only other thing you need in that scenario is for one hose, a 3/4 inch to 5/8 in straight adapter to match the size coming out of the water pump on that one hose.

The H2 is probably the best equipped vehicle for your purposes, as you know. While the H1 excels even better off road, the creature comforts of the H2 are definitely something to consider.... Definitely a priority for my wife, LOL
Robert the heater core quick disconnect is only on one side looks like ?
one of the hoses has traditional clamp.
 
Old Aug 17, 2025 | 05:22 PM
  #35  
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Leave the Hubcaps off when Off roading.. Just another piece to lose while playing in the mud or water.

Also, One of the posters here and a broken hood latch cable.That thread ran for while talking about a fix. Finally, I forget who said remove the complete latch from the firewall. The side latches will hold the hood down. Someone said if its good enough for an 18 wheeler Kenworth Truck then you can get along without it in the Hummer.

So you might also think.....Well ... From The Movie....Cage Goes in the water.... You get in the cage in the water... And The shark is in the water...L.O.L.
Your out on the trail...something goes wrong under the hood.....Whatever..you pull the hood release and the cable breaks. What do you do?

Your choice. L.O.L.
 
Old Aug 17, 2025 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark R
Leave the Hubcaps off when Off roading.. Just another piece to lose while playing in the mud or water.

Also, One of the posters here and a broken hood latch cable.That thread ran for while talking about a fix. Finally, I forget who said remove the complete latch from the firewall. The side latches will hold the hood down. Someone said if its good enough for an 18 wheeler Kenworth Truck then you can get along without it in the Hummer.

So you might also think.....Well ... From The Movie....Cage Goes in the water.... You get in the cage in the water... And The shark is in the water...L.O.L.
Your out on the trail...something goes wrong under the hood.....Whatever..you pull the hood release and the cable breaks. What do you do?

Your choice. L.O.L.
haha this is actually interesting you mentioned the hood latch
because right at this moment I was looking at the hood latch and thinking how it will handle 100s miles of rocky roads with vibration.

yes I am gonna keep the wheels without hub caps
one less thing to worry
 
Old Aug 17, 2025 | 05:38 PM
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Until the day kenworth takes one of there trucks and tests on Saline Valley road in Death Valley
I won’t trust those side latches alone.

i have had them pup out on the h1 during extreme vibrating roads and when body flexes
 
Old Aug 17, 2025 | 09:25 PM
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How do I fix this nonsense?
plastic piece
is not gripping the original selector lever.



 
Old Aug 17, 2025 | 09:27 PM
  #39  
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I took the selector lever out
maybe I should fabricate something better and solid.
 
Old Aug 18, 2025 | 05:25 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by OVERLANDH2
Robert the heater core quick disconnect is only on one side looks like ?
one of the hoses has traditional clamp.
It's not a fun one to reach. Make sure the one with the standard clamp is actually clamped onto the pipe coming out the firewall, and not onto a plastic quick disconnect. If it is directly on the pipe, I would definitely take care of the other one. As brittle as those plastic quick disconnects get, I can just imagine on a washboard road.

On the street, the OEM plastic quick disconnects will frequently last 150,000 miles.... Before simply snapping off. Not sure what to expect with heavy off-road use though.

There's one other piece of plastic in the cooling system, you will see a y-pipe just off the water pump. One hose goes to your reservoir and the other one up to the heater core quick disconnect we're talking about. I personally haven't heard of one of those breaking, but I always replace those on my LS motors with one of the metal ones. Readily available, I think even Dorman makes a decent one that comes with OEM style clamps.

The cable for the hood latch is a common issue, I would say mainly for people who live in corrosion prone areas. If you're going to keep the interior hood release, make sure you keep that cable well lubed. It's a bit of a headache releasing the latch of that cable breaks. I simply remove the two bolts from under the hood that hold the metal loop to engage the latch, and just rely on the side straps. (But I'm not running mine off-road.... Lol, it's a garage Queen that gets most of its use in deep snow in the winter)

Having gum through my H2 completely, I can say I was pleasantly surprised by the overall assembly, from a mechanical perspective. Other than those plastic heater hose connections, it actually appeared to be assembled with off-road in mind. (Much better than what Jeep does) The only thing I wasn't too excited about was the power steering hose routing. I did replace all the hoses, and kept it OEM..... Lol, there's just a lot going on right there in that corner of the engine, looks a little chaotic, but it does the job just fine. Did not find any unusual rubbing or anything.

Do take meticulous care of your interior door panels. They do crack easy, and are repairable with fiberglass.... But just one top quality replacement interior door panel, used, can easily fetch $900 and up.

The thing that surprised me the most, is that right away my wife noticed it actually rides better than her 2014 Escalade. More comfortable even. Not as fast due to the weight, but it has her stamp of approval. She says she also feels safer in it.
 

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