Brake bleeding help
I need help with manual brake bleeding procedure.
2003 H2, replaced master cylinder, hydro boost, new stainless steel brake lines and EBCM.
From on what I understand the first step is bleeding the master cylinder, but not having any luck. Resivoir is at max and no fluid will flow through to lines.
2003 H2, replaced master cylinder, hydro boost, new stainless steel brake lines and EBCM.
From on what I understand the first step is bleeding the master cylinder, but not having any luck. Resivoir is at max and no fluid will flow through to lines.
This is going to be a bit hard to explain but I'll do my best. To bleed the master cylinder you first remove the brake lines. Fill it full then out your finger over the holes where the lines go. Have someone slowly pres the brake pedal to the floor. Make sure you have your fingers over the hole really well so that when they let up on the pedal no air gets in from the holes. Repeat the process until no more air seems to be coming out where the pedal is pressed. Probably 3-4 times. Afterwards, put the lines back on.
Next, bleed all brakes because now they probably have air in them. Start with the right rear, then left rear, right front, left front. You may have to use a fancy scan tool and make the ABS system electronically bleed it self. That depends on how much air you got in the lines. Uncommon in my experience but possible. I hope I helped.
Next, bleed all brakes because now they probably have air in them. Start with the right rear, then left rear, right front, left front. You may have to use a fancy scan tool and make the ABS system electronically bleed it self. That depends on how much air you got in the lines. Uncommon in my experience but possible. I hope I helped.
Thanks! I'll give it a try. I ended up buying a new master cylinder yesterday. After calling the parts store, they said I've never bought one for the hummer only a Silverado. So I went to another parts store.
since you replaced the hydroboost, expect it to take some time to get all the air out. Brakes and power steering may be lack lust for a little bit but it will work the air out itself. I am curious as to why you are replacing all of this.
Rust and catch up maintenance. I've had it 9 months, first hydro boost went out after the rear brake line busted due to rust. Had the line "replaced" due to location and I replaced the hydro boost after limping home. Then the EBCM went out due to rusty chasis grounds...extensive circuit testing. Once I climbed under it and saw the rusted brake lines I decided to replace the remainder of the system. 15 unions on six brake lines in various state of corrosion including the new line spliced just behind the firewall. Seems no one wanted to reach or fight the brake lines at the pump.
I don't blame you. The people at the parts store ar sometimes really stupid. If you find a good parts seller, then keep with him/her. Unfortunately, they dont always hire knowledgeable people.
since you replaced the hydroboost, expect it to take some time to get all the air out. Brakes and power steering may be lack lust for a little bit but it will work the air out itself. I am curious as to why you are replacing all of this.
since you replaced the hydroboost, expect it to take some time to get all the air out. Brakes and power steering may be lack lust for a little bit but it will work the air out itself. I am curious as to why you are replacing all of this.
Glad to see that you got it all to work. They make a tool that allows you to push fluid in from the blenders allowing the air to be pushed up through the lines and expelled out the master cylinder. I dont know if that would have helped. It sounds like you got pretty creative. I think it's good that you cam up with a cheap alternative to breading the abs system. Hopefully you wont have to ever do all of that again.
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Mark Maturen
Hummer H2
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Jan 8, 2019 11:35 AM



