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Brake bleeding help

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Old Mar 15, 2019 | 06:03 PM
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JSloan's Avatar
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Default Brake bleeding help

I need help with manual brake bleeding procedure.

2003 H2, replaced master cylinder, hydro boost, new stainless steel brake lines and EBCM.

From on what I understand the first step is bleeding the master cylinder, but not having any luck. Resivoir is at max and no fluid will flow through to lines.
 
Old Mar 16, 2019 | 02:12 AM
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This is going to be a bit hard to explain but I'll do my best. To bleed the master cylinder you first remove the brake lines. Fill it full then out your finger over the holes where the lines go. Have someone slowly pres the brake pedal to the floor. Make sure you have your fingers over the hole really well so that when they let up on the pedal no air gets in from the holes. Repeat the process until no more air seems to be coming out where the pedal is pressed. Probably 3-4 times. Afterwards, put the lines back on.

Next, bleed all brakes because now they probably have air in them. Start with the right rear, then left rear, right front, left front. You may have to use a fancy scan tool and make the ABS system electronically bleed it self. That depends on how much air you got in the lines. Uncommon in my experience but possible. I hope I helped.
 
Old Mar 16, 2019 | 08:48 AM
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Thanks! I'll give it a try. I ended up buying a new master cylinder yesterday. After calling the parts store, they said I've never bought one for the hummer only a Silverado. So I went to another parts store.
 
Old Mar 16, 2019 | 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by JSloan
Thanks! I'll give it a try. I ended up buying a new master cylinder yesterday. After calling the parts store, they said I've never bought one for the hummer only a Silverado. So I went to another parts store.
I don't blame you. The people at the parts store ar sometimes really stupid. If you find a good parts seller, then keep with him/her. Unfortunately, they dont always hire knowledgeable people.

since you replaced the hydroboost, expect it to take some time to get all the air out. Brakes and power steering may be lack lust for a little bit but it will work the air out itself. I am curious as to why you are replacing all of this.
 
Old Mar 16, 2019 | 07:38 PM
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Rust and catch up maintenance. I've had it 9 months, first hydro boost went out after the rear brake line busted due to rust. Had the line "replaced" due to location and I replaced the hydro boost after limping home. Then the EBCM went out due to rusty chasis grounds...extensive circuit testing. Once I climbed under it and saw the rusted brake lines I decided to replace the remainder of the system. 15 unions on six brake lines in various state of corrosion including the new line spliced just behind the firewall. Seems no one wanted to reach or fight the brake lines at the pump.
 
Old Mar 22, 2019 | 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by BowerPower
I don't blame you. The people at the parts store ar sometimes really stupid. If you find a good parts seller, then keep with him/her. Unfortunately, they dont always hire knowledgeable people.

since you replaced the hydroboost, expect it to take some time to get all the air out. Brakes and power steering may be lack lust for a little bit but it will work the air out itself. I am curious as to why you are replacing all of this.
thanks bowerpower. A complete brake system change is not easy without a scan tool, but it is possible. Take one step at a time from master cylinder to calipers. Do not tighten any brake line connections down. First bleed master cylinder until a steady flow is achieved, tighten MC connections completely. Next gravity or pressure to fill lines from MC to ABS pump until fluid begins to leak from the two center 5/16 lines, tighten completely. Also tighten two rear brake line corrections at pump. The next step could take a while without the scan tool which is needed to activate the EBCM purging air from its cavities at each solenoid. I tried every combination of pedal pumping nothing pushed fluid through ABS pump. It sat overnight probably getting some effect from gravity. Tried pedal pumping method again, nothing. So I went shopping. Cheap spray bottle and 5/16 tube for suction device. Also bought a cheap garden sprayer and tube connectors for pressure device spent about $35. I tried suction first, nothing. Then pressure nothing. Finally I tried both. First creating negative pressure at caliper with spray bottle nozzle, then starting pressure from the master cylinder. Once fluid started to flow, I removed spray nozzle from caliper tube and placed in jar of brake fluid. Repeated the process for each tire. Repeat typical manual brake bleeding process at each tire. Good test drive finally!
 
Old Mar 22, 2019 | 11:49 AM
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Glad to see that you got it all to work. They make a tool that allows you to push fluid in from the blenders allowing the air to be pushed up through the lines and expelled out the master cylinder. I dont know if that would have helped. It sounds like you got pretty creative. I think it's good that you cam up with a cheap alternative to breading the abs system. Hopefully you wont have to ever do all of that again.
 
Old Mar 24, 2019 | 03:28 PM
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I know you are done but I use the Harbor Freight brake bleeder which uses compressed air to create suction. Things works wonders.
 
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