Ac not working . Need help to identify issue
#11
Orifice Tube
Pipes and Heat Exchanger
MixManSC has a very important point about "debris"
My compressor had indeed "grenaded" and there was a ton of debris everywhere! (see pics)
Using a flush-gun kit + fluid (search youtube) I flushed out the heat-exchanger and every remaining pipe, as the dryer, orifice tube and compressor were replaced these didn't need attention.
Some experts do not recommend flushing and advise compoenet replacement, but that can be expensive and impractical. I kept agitating and flushing in both directions until no more debris came out and then continued flushing a few more times just to make sure.
#12
.. The orifices tube looks exactly like yours debris everywhere
Check pics
I will look online and perform a flush
Is it necessary to flush after the tube . I think this act like a filter
In other words . If Im replacing the dryer and compressor. What would need a flush
Check pics
I will look online and perform a flush
Is it necessary to flush after the tube . I think this act like a filter
In other words . If Im replacing the dryer and compressor. What would need a flush
#13
That's remarkably similar!
If you're replacing the compressor, with all the cost and effort that involves, I'd be tempted to reverse flush and forward flush the A/C Evaporator, all the pipes and its generally recommended to replace the condensor.
The theory is that small particles of debris get lodged in the micro cavities of the condensor which are difficult to flush out. Having said that, I had to flush mine as the new one leaked and it would have taken too long to get a replacement shipped to the UK.
Also there is the residual oil inside the old components which makes calculating the required amount of PAG Oil difficult, flushing helps remove it. I've attached an official GM service note and anoth Tech Tip which you may find useful.
If you're replacing the compressor, with all the cost and effort that involves, I'd be tempted to reverse flush and forward flush the A/C Evaporator, all the pipes and its generally recommended to replace the condensor.
The theory is that small particles of debris get lodged in the micro cavities of the condensor which are difficult to flush out. Having said that, I had to flush mine as the new one leaked and it would have taken too long to get a replacement shipped to the UK.
Also there is the residual oil inside the old components which makes calculating the required amount of PAG Oil difficult, flushing helps remove it. I've attached an official GM service note and anoth Tech Tip which you may find useful.
#15
Hopefully you'll get your A/C running 100% and it would be good to know your progress :-)
It was July 2017 almost two years ago when I did mine, my A/C Temperature ran higher than ambient, when I started it measured 24C(75F) after it hit -3C(27F) an amazing improvement!
Cooling has dropped off a bit since as r134a molecules are small and tend to escape even perfectly sealed systems, so its no surprise, however its still effective.
Some UK Hummer owners don't bother if their A/C don't work, but they miss the point, if the HVAC system can't cool it can't regulate and the cabin temp drifts all over the place.
Again Good Luck!
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