RCV Ultimate High Strength CV Joints?
#11
08-29-2011, 02:29 PM
With the BP tie rods you are not just replacing the stock ones with beefed up tie rods, like those with sleeves. Because of the added articulation up and down and the ability for the Heims to rotate and take stress off the rack they should help absorb the stress the OEM put on the rack hitting the limits and having to flex the tie rod itself, which usually results in bending or breaking. With the bend in the outer end it centers the Heim at rest so you get max use of that as well as reducing the upward force OEM apply when at a steep angle after cranking up the t-bars.
I added longer anti-sway bar links to keep those from maxing out as well with just 23 1/2 or torsion lift at full droop the stock ones, with longer shocks are maxed out and cocked up as far as they can move.
Beefing up and preventing movement on the passenger side will also reduce the rack flex that can break the other end at the steering shaft aluminum casting with either tie rod. I decided it takes both mods.
I added longer anti-sway bar links to keep those from maxing out as well with just 23 1/2 or torsion lift at full droop the stock ones, with longer shocks are maxed out and cocked up as far as they can move.
Beefing up and preventing movement on the passenger side will also reduce the rack flex that can break the other end at the steering shaft aluminum casting with either tie rod. I decided it takes both mods.
The increased articulation of the BP tie rods is really what I find most attractive about them. I've been thinking about them more and more. Every time you post something about them, I get a little closer.
I’d have to do what you did though, follow-up with other mods to mitigate the side effects.
#13
08-29-2011, 07:15 PM
I've bought from Phil a few times.... his prices are as good or better than other people claiming they are giving you group buy prices, and then hammering you on shipping....
CBPhoto bridged the gap with these guys... I believe he had the first set and gave them to someone else... he said they are pure beefy.
I tried to get a set for my H2, but Phil refunded my money saying they were on backorder... I tried to get with RCV and they never responded to my several emails.
CBPhoto bridged the gap with these guys... I believe he had the first set and gave them to someone else... he said they are pure beefy.
I tried to get a set for my H2, but Phil refunded my money saying they were on backorder... I tried to get with RCV and they never responded to my several emails.
#14
08-30-2011, 05:59 AM
Can somebody recommend me a shop where to get the "bullet proof" tie rods and the extended sway bar rods?
For me steering and braking are the two most important safety issues.
Thanks in advance for any info!
For me steering and braking are the two most important safety issues.
Thanks in advance for any info!
#15
08-30-2011, 07:24 AM
Genuine Bullet Proof Steering Systems GM Pricing & Options
#16
08-30-2011, 11:51 AM
Hey James, contact Brodie, he has the prototype set that CB had and has them on his H3 now.
I am also of the using the 1/2 shaft as a "fuse". The ony time I had a front diff explode on me was when the 1/2 shafts became too stiff from a ripped boot and they would not articulate (became stright) putting the stress on the intermediate shaft in the front diff. breaking the shaft inside the diff then the pieces did the rest of the damage to the ring gear and pinion.
I am also of the using the 1/2 shaft as a "fuse". The ony time I had a front diff explode on me was when the 1/2 shafts became too stiff from a ripped boot and they would not articulate (became stright) putting the stress on the intermediate shaft in the front diff. breaking the shaft inside the diff then the pieces did the rest of the damage to the ring gear and pinion.
#17
08-30-2011, 01:26 PM
The longer adjustable anti-sway bar links I used were some a local 4x4 shop had ready to fit on a buggy they were building. They let me buy those since I was leaving for Moab the next day. They are Curries. I think he called them "builders" model. They can be cut to length and still leave some adjustment. I think I ended up with 6 1/2 inch. I can try to get a model number. The great thing about these is the mounting bolts are the same size as stock so they fit good on both ends. They are a lot heavier duty than what I first tried.
#18
08-30-2011, 03:01 PM
Thanks for the info, guys. If I'm getting all of this, the BP tie rods are good, these CVs are good, but the price for both could be a damaged diff. So, like Jake said, it's all tougher, but the reduced give could result in more expensive damage.... ****!
#19
08-30-2011, 05:12 PM
I know we have strayed from the original subject but I thought I attempted to at least explain briefly my decision to use the BP by stating the extra articulation up down and sort of around and the bend at the end put less direct stress on the rack. The stock ones, especially with t-bars adjusted up and bigger tires push UP on the rack even more and limit out sooner.
That is just what I have come up with after shaking the wheels off the ground and watching all the reaction. I guess as long as somebody is making those 16mm, carrying some spares of those is a cheap option.
At one time there were several racks broken with stock tie rods.
I'm not sure how the tie rods would destroy a differential?
That is just what I have come up with after shaking the wheels off the ground and watching all the reaction. I guess as long as somebody is making those 16mm, carrying some spares of those is a cheap option.
At one time there were several racks broken with stock tie rods.
I'm not sure how the tie rods would destroy a differential?
#20
08-30-2011, 11:02 PM
The RCV Halfshafts is what he was orignally talking about. That is what might destroy the front diff. It would be the next weakest link in the chain.