RCV Ultimate High Strength CV Joints?
 

Anyone have knowledge of this product?

RCV Ultimate High Strength CV Joints? Found them while browsing Trail Duty. Warrantied for life.

http://www.trailduty.com/product_inf...oducts_id=1086

James last time I checked theyre a little pricey, 325.00 a pop means x4 for the inner and outer both sides... I know when they first came out there was talk of a group buy, I'd be down for that if we can get the $$$ down a little... im on my 4th set of OEM cv boots already... :(

Dan, good to hear from you again, bro. Yeah, they're definitely a little high in price, but I'm hearing that they're strong. Know anyone at Trail Duty?

My thoughts on this are this, if you beef up the half shafts you are moving the "fuse" to the next weakest link (the front differential). If something’s going to break, I would rather it be a half shaft then a front diff. Its a lot cheaper to replace a half shaft then it is a whole front differential. Also with aftermarket (EMPI) half shafts available now, it is much cheaper to replace them. Aftermarket half shafts are cheap to replace ($80) and you can replace well over 20 of them for the price of just one front diff ($1800+).

Are you just tearing/ripping the boots? RCV Performance also makes replacement CV boots for the H3.

Replacement CV Boot for Hummer H3
https://www.rcvperformance.com/store...151762b5e6100d
"If you are tired of tearing your Hummer H3 CV boots, then this is what you need. The RCV CV boot replacement for Hummer H3 is the best replacement boot available. These are perfect for high angle applications."

https://www.rcvperformance.com/store...151762b5e6100d

That's always a tough call...

I'm in the same place with tie-rods: I'm looking to upgrade to the "bullet-proof" rods... of course if I get them and then work the hell out of my steering... it won't be the rods that break.

So do you let your truck break under less force, and have an easier repair job... Or do you upgrade so it hopefully won't break at all, but if it does... it REALLY sucks! :(

James I dont know anyone at TD other than Tomp has done buisness w/ him... however I sent out a feeler to RCV just now see if we can by pass the middle man so to speak...

Sundown you make a good point. Ive done both though. Im on my third set of half shafts. Second diff. And 4th CV boot... Im toying w/ ideas until someone gets the solid axle swap into a more affordable price range... that and Stan gets a week off from work so we can go to town ripping my H3 apart before my second baby comes...

Jake your mind set is the same as mine and Ive been beating myself up for the past two years... dont expect the decision to get any better or easier lmao

Nothing says affordable like a leaf sprung Dana 44 :D
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I have wheeled with Phil Day at Trail Duty and have had several well handled transactions thru his business. Some group buys are not all they are cracked up to be on special limited items with a small markup and it seems the volume on more expensive items never comes up to expectations.
Just a few points.
With the BP tie rods you are not just replacing the stock ones with beefed up tie rods, like those with sleeves. Because of the added articulation up and down and the ability for the Heims to rotate and take stress off the rack they should help absorb the stress the OEM put on the rack hitting the limits and having to flex the tie rod itself, which usually results in bending or breaking. With the bend in the outer end it centers the Heim at rest so you get max use of that as well as reducing the upward force OEM apply when at a steep angle after cranking up the t-bars.
I added longer anti-sway bar links to keep those from maxing out as well with just 23 1/2 or torsion lift at full droop the stock ones, with longer shocks are maxed out and cocked up as far as they can move.
Beefing up and preventing movement on the passenger side will also reduce the rack flex that can break the other end at the steering shaft aluminum casting with either tie rod. I decided it takes both mods.
I too have concern about beefing up the CV's even with a CI diff, but still have considered it after hearing about the number of people popping those. I do carry a couple of OEM CV's!
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After having a Pusher front end on my Toyota I sort of like the slik front end on the H3. I guess it's different strokes ........and adjusted driving techniques and and some mods to increase reliability on the H3 as well as your intended type of wheeling. I plowed lots of furrows with that pumpkin on logging roads already messed up and was usually the cause of being able to go forward.
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sundown sent you a pm