RCV Ultimate High Strength CV Joints?
 

Anyone have knowledge of this product?

RCV Ultimate High Strength CV Joints? Found them while browsing Trail Duty. Warrantied for life.

http://www.trailduty.com/product_inf...oducts_id=1086

James last time I checked theyre a little pricey, 325.00 a pop means x4 for the inner and outer both sides... I know when they first came out there was talk of a group buy, I'd be down for that if we can get the $$$ down a little... im on my 4th set of OEM cv boots already... :(

Dan, good to hear from you again, bro. Yeah, they're definitely a little high in price, but I'm hearing that they're strong. Know anyone at Trail Duty?

My thoughts on this are this, if you beef up the half shafts you are moving the "fuse" to the next weakest link (the front differential). If something’s going to break, I would rather it be a half shaft then a front diff. Its a lot cheaper to replace a half shaft then it is a whole front differential. Also with aftermarket (EMPI) half shafts available now, it is much cheaper to replace them. Aftermarket half shafts are cheap to replace ($80) and you can replace well over 20 of them for the price of just one front diff ($1800+).

Are you just tearing/ripping the boots? RCV Performance also makes replacement CV boots for the H3.

Replacement CV Boot for Hummer H3
https://www.rcvperformance.com/store...151762b5e6100d
"If you are tired of tearing your Hummer H3 CV boots, then this is what you need. The RCV CV boot replacement for Hummer H3 is the best replacement boot available. These are perfect for high angle applications."

https://www.rcvperformance.com/store...151762b5e6100d

That's always a tough call...

I'm in the same place with tie-rods: I'm looking to upgrade to the "bullet-proof" rods... of course if I get them and then work the hell out of my steering... it won't be the rods that break.

So do you let your truck break under less force, and have an easier repair job... Or do you upgrade so it hopefully won't break at all, but if it does... it REALLY sucks! :(

James I dont know anyone at TD other than Tomp has done buisness w/ him... however I sent out a feeler to RCV just now see if we can by pass the middle man so to speak...

Sundown you make a good point. Ive done both though. Im on my third set of half shafts. Second diff. And 4th CV boot... Im toying w/ ideas until someone gets the solid axle swap into a more affordable price range... that and Stan gets a week off from work so we can go to town ripping my H3 apart before my second baby comes...

Jake your mind set is the same as mine and Ive been beating myself up for the past two years... dont expect the decision to get any better or easier lmao

Nothing says affordable like a leaf sprung Dana 44 :D
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I have wheeled with Phil Day at Trail Duty and have had several well handled transactions thru his business. Some group buys are not all they are cracked up to be on special limited items with a small markup and it seems the volume on more expensive items never comes up to expectations.
Just a few points.
With the BP tie rods you are not just replacing the stock ones with beefed up tie rods, like those with sleeves. Because of the added articulation up and down and the ability for the Heims to rotate and take stress off the rack they should help absorb the stress the OEM put on the rack hitting the limits and having to flex the tie rod itself, which usually results in bending or breaking. With the bend in the outer end it centers the Heim at rest so you get max use of that as well as reducing the upward force OEM apply when at a steep angle after cranking up the t-bars.
I added longer anti-sway bar links to keep those from maxing out as well with just 23 1/2 or torsion lift at full droop the stock ones, with longer shocks are maxed out and cocked up as far as they can move.
Beefing up and preventing movement on the passenger side will also reduce the rack flex that can break the other end at the steering shaft aluminum casting with either tie rod. I decided it takes both mods.
I too have concern about beefing up the CV's even with a CI diff, but still have considered it after hearing about the number of people popping those. I do carry a couple of OEM CV's!
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After having a Pusher front end on my Toyota I sort of like the slik front end on the H3. I guess it's different strokes ........and adjusted driving techniques and and some mods to increase reliability on the H3 as well as your intended type of wheeling. I plowed lots of furrows with that pumpkin on logging roads already messed up and was usually the cause of being able to go forward.
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sundown sent you a pm

Thanks man!

The increased articulation of the BP tie rods is really what I find most attractive about them. I've been thinking about them more and more. Every time you post something about them, I get a little closer.


I’d have to do what you did though, follow-up with other mods to mitigate the side effects.

I would be glad to help if you decide to go with any of that by providing more info.

I've bought from Phil a few times.... his prices are as good or better than other people claiming they are giving you group buy prices, and then hammering you on shipping....

CBPhoto bridged the gap with these guys... I believe he had the first set and gave them to someone else... he said they are pure beefy.

I tried to get a set for my H2, but Phil refunded my money saying they were on backorder... I tried to get with RCV and they never responded to my several emails.

Can somebody recommend me a shop where to get the "bullet proof" tie rods and the extended sway bar rods?

For me steering and braking are the two most important safety issues.

Thanks in advance for any info!

The tie rods are available through Bullet Proof Steering
Genuine Bullet Proof Steering Systems GM Pricing & Options

Hey James, contact Brodie, he has the prototype set that CB had and has them on his H3 now.

I am also of the using the 1/2 shaft as a "fuse". The ony time I had a front diff explode on me was when the 1/2 shafts became too stiff from a ripped boot and they would not articulate (became stright) putting the stress on the intermediate shaft in the front diff. breaking the shaft inside the diff then the pieces did the rest of the damage to the ring gear and pinion.:eek:

The longer adjustable anti-sway bar links I used were some a local 4x4 shop had ready to fit on a buggy they were building. They let me buy those since I was leaving for Moab the next day. They are Curries. I think he called them "builders" model. They can be cut to length and still leave some adjustment. I think I ended up with 6 1/2 inch. I can try to get a model number. The great thing about these is the mounting bolts are the same size as stock so they fit good on both ends. They are a lot heavier duty than what I first tried.

Thanks for the info, guys. If I'm getting all of this, the BP tie rods are good, these CVs are good, but the price for both could be a damaged diff. So, like Jake said, it's all tougher, but the reduced give could result in more expensive damage.... SH!T!

I know we have strayed from the original subject but I thought I attempted to at least explain briefly my decision to use the BP by stating the extra articulation up down and sort of around and the bend at the end put less direct stress on the rack. The stock ones, especially with t-bars adjusted up and bigger tires push UP on the rack even more and limit out sooner.
That is just what I have come up with after shaking the wheels off the ground and watching all the reaction. I guess as long as somebody is making those 16mm, carrying some spares of those is a cheap option.
At one time there were several racks broken with stock tie rods.
I'm not sure how the tie rods would destroy a differential?

The RCV Halfshafts is what he was orignally talking about. That is what might destroy the front diff. It would be the next weakest link in the chain.

This just had me thinking I did not explain it well or it was misunderstood. Just trying to be accurate.
I do understand about the CV's is why I am holding off on those, for now. A spare CV or two takes alot less room than a diff assembly!!! If I add anything else I may need a chase vehicle! lol
By the way I only had 1 question about that trip to Drummond Tainter.................ha ha

I feel the same way. I'd rather carry spare 1/2 shafts than a diff. Even though we did take a 4:10 CI front diff to RC in April just to be on the "safe side":D

What was the 1 question about Drummond????:confused: PM me!

By the way, we have done enough business together please feel free to call me Mark or MU!:D

Same ole question, you either needed it before or after going! ha ha

Only 3k to go on the bumper to bumper 4/50K so Next month it wil go on! We are also thinking about trading in Mr "T" soon for an automatic "T" (5 speed). So I may be swapping the front and rear 4:56s Locked diffs to Mr. Blue and giving "T" the 4:10s rear locked only. I may do it all at once since I will have the diff out it will make it easier to get in there and get that tough top bolt! I might even fab up a second mount like you did so the steering rack is "Strong Like Bull". Then 1" body lift and 37s??? Hmmmmmm..... I'll keep ya posted.:D

Whoa! :eek:

Yeah, keep us updated! :D

I would be interested in Mr. T. I have always wanted a 5 speed, especial an H3T! Although, I would want the front/rear lockers and 4.56 gears still :p

37" tires fit with a body lift? News to me! :p

Yes 37's will fit with a body lift. The Daystar H3T only has there 1" body lift and torsion keys with 37" Interco SS-M16's
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:eek:

This might be a good place to insert this calculator for those that might find it interesting. I just found this one today. Funny it has a pop up that says don't go over 3% it could cause brake failure. Liability issues I guess. Never saw that before.
Tire Size Calculator - tire & wheel plus sizing

Somebody do the math on the odometer reading in miles from 285 to 315 if the speedometer reading is 5.390% too slow. I gotta find a calculator, lol
Then from 315 to 37's!

Maybe those CV's would come in handy with this setup?

Holy crap!!! Is there enough room to stuff a 37" tire off camber?

The RCV's are a good investment. They are more for insurance. What people say about the fuse is correct but if you know how to drive your H3 that fuse will never get lit.

Exactly.

BELOW Me!:p

If you took your rig OffRoad more than.......:eek:

Oh snap!

What makes you think I was talking about you?

Please don't try to discredit me just because you thought I was referring to you. I've had both my H3's off road many many times.

Whoa, Whoa there Brodie. Not trying to "discredit" you what so ever! I respect your friendship, HUMMER knowledge and the work you have done with aftermarket parts for our rigs.

I was joking with ya. Notice the "smilies". "Lighten up Francis"


.

FIGHT FIGHT FIGHT!


:p

Sissy Hummer Slapfight!

There ain't nuthin "sissy" when yer talkin bout HUMMERS! :)