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Please help identify leak

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  #11  
Old 10-29-2013, 05:04 PM
SolidJJ's Avatar
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Originally Posted by norinco3264
Thank you for the input, as well as your service to our country.

I have a 2006 hummer h3 (with 61,200 miles), I noticed the link you sent was for a H3T. Would this replacement item still work?
Not a problem man, I don't think this would be a great first time DIY job because it can be a pain and it will P%^$ you off.

If you do take on the task:

1- Have the truck on the ground and brake lose the axle nut with a barker bar with a 36 MM socket I want to say. Go and slide a cheater pipe that will fit over the barker bar, longer the better for leverage. When you have the breaker bar on the axle nut you may need to use you whole body wight to loosen so don't be afraid to lay into but apply even pressure DON'T JERK IT!!! Remove nut fully at this point.

2- Lift the H3 and remove the tire, be sure to have a chock block or brick behind the rear tire and jack stands on the the frame.

3- Now remove the outer tie rod and the lower balljoint nut. With a 32 OZ or larger hammer HIT ONLY THE LOWER CONTROL ARM unit the ball joint is separated from the spindle.

4- At this point you should be able to push in the CV and pull the spindle from the axle. With a bungee cord strap to the brake caliper and more it to the right out of the way.

5- With a pry bar place it between the CV and diff, apply even pressure to the CV pushing away from the diff and it should pop out and place it somewhere safe and clean (new runs over $300).

6- Remove the old seal (NOTE ON DIRECTION IT'S FACING) and inspected it to see why it failed and insure you are replacing the right part. Next grab the new seal and compare the old and new seal to make sure they are the same then rub some oil that's in the diff all over the seal and install it.

Now I haven't done a CV on a H3 yet but I have on many other cars and trucks. If I am missing a step or said something wrong someone will correct me.

Please if you do this buy a torque stick and torque all bolts and nut to factory specs. German spec goodintight is not worth risking your life.
 

Last edited by SolidJJ; 10-29-2013 at 05:16 PM.
  #12  
Old 10-29-2013, 05:14 PM
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I wanna know why the 06 shafts seem to be a tad shorter than the newer models. This makes it seem like the cv shaft isn't pushed all the way into the front diff.... I don't have the $$ to buy new cv shafts...
 
  #13  
Old 10-30-2013, 12:01 PM
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Default Going to give it a shot

Awesome guideline, I'll be taking a look at the underside this weekend to see if I can complete this without a mechanic. If it appears too intense, I'll just have to pay someone to repair it.

Maybe I'll get lucky and do this right! Either way I'll report back in on what happens.
 
  #14  
Old 10-30-2013, 01:55 PM
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06 shafts seem to be a tad shorter


a recent post mentioned the longer part and p number
 
  #15  
Old 10-30-2013, 09:16 PM
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  #16  
Old 10-31-2013, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by digglesworth
I wanna know why the 06 shafts seem to be a tad shorter than the newer models. This makes it seem like the cv shaft isn't pushed all the way into the front diff.... I don't have the $$ to buy new cv shafts...
In early 07 GM went with thicker tie rods and longer half shafts. Then in 08 for the Alpha, they went to thicker half shafts, same length as the longer 07s. Everything 09 and after has the longer and thicker half shafts, that's what you want.
 
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