Opinions wanted: H2 [still] shakes
#11
check all your mounts starting from the engine, transmission and front differential.
1. have another person inside the truck. activate the e-brake.
2. start the truck, depress the brake pedal and keep it down.
3. put the shifter in drive and revs it.
4. visually check all the mounts for excessive play.
5. do the same procedure in reverse gear.
check also all the body mounts.
i'm using cardone select half shaft from rock auto with lifetime warranty. it breaks like a twig when i off road but it's my fuse instead of the front diff. i already replaced 4 of them under warranty though.
1. have another person inside the truck. activate the e-brake.
2. start the truck, depress the brake pedal and keep it down.
3. put the shifter in drive and revs it.
4. visually check all the mounts for excessive play.
5. do the same procedure in reverse gear.
check also all the body mounts.
i'm using cardone select half shaft from rock auto with lifetime warranty. it breaks like a twig when i off road but it's my fuse instead of the front diff. i already replaced 4 of them under warranty though.
Last edited by citiboy; 12-06-2016 at 10:13 AM.
#12
Shake in park ... ummmm .. then nothing related to steering
I will look into the flywheel first ... how is the engine rpm in idle . Smooth or rough.. even bad engine mount shouldn't make the whole truck to shake if engine is running smoothly
I heard a damaged flywheel could make shake even the driveway
Have you look for a professional opinion
I will look into the flywheel first ... how is the engine rpm in idle . Smooth or rough.. even bad engine mount shouldn't make the whole truck to shake if engine is running smoothly
I heard a damaged flywheel could make shake even the driveway
Have you look for a professional opinion
These engines actually have flexplates (does the same thing as a flywheel, more or less). My old one had wear & was replaced, but that didn't effect the shaking one bit.
I still plan on putting a diesel in the rig, so I don't want to dump any more money into the power train.
One symptom that I have is a large clunk when shifting from reverse to drive or from accelerating to coasting. Bad U-Joints seem to fit this description. I can't seem to move the drive shaft, but they are still probably bad. I've had a lot of parts on here that are only noticeably bad once removed.
check all your mounts starting from the engine, transmission and front differential.
1. have another person inside the truck. activate the e-brake.
2. start the truck, depress the brake pedal and keep it down.
3. put the shifter in drive and revs it.
4. visually check all the mounts for excessive play.
5. do the same procedure in reverse gear.
i'm using cardone select half shaft from rock auto with lifetime warranty. it breaks like a twig when i off road but it's my fuse instead of the front diff. i already replaced 4 of them under warranty though.
1. have another person inside the truck. activate the e-brake.
2. start the truck, depress the brake pedal and keep it down.
3. put the shifter in drive and revs it.
4. visually check all the mounts for excessive play.
5. do the same procedure in reverse gear.
i'm using cardone select half shaft from rock auto with lifetime warranty. it breaks like a twig when i off road but it's my fuse instead of the front diff. i already replaced 4 of them under warranty though.
I found the Cardone. There's two versions: normal & HD. I'm assuming that you're buying the normal version, so that you'll never damage your front diff, right?
How is their warranty process? You have to ship it back or what? Shipping is outrageous right now (I spent $20 shipping back my inner tie rods).
#13
And I have another problem, lol...
When taking a sharp turn to the right around 10 mph or less, the driver's side front tire sounds like it's skidding along gravel. I feel like I'm sliding a bit. The left tire has no symptoms. If I straighten out, I'm fine. It doesn't always do this, but I was able to replicate the problem a few times.
I'm guessing CV axel/joint. It has over 130k miles on it & I know these are not highway-only miles.
Makes sense?
I already have plans to replace these, but I want to make sure that it's not something else (not that I can think of anything else that I'm not already replacing: lower ball joints & wheel hub).
Does this make sense?
When taking a sharp turn to the right around 10 mph or less, the driver's side front tire sounds like it's skidding along gravel. I feel like I'm sliding a bit. The left tire has no symptoms. If I straighten out, I'm fine. It doesn't always do this, but I was able to replicate the problem a few times.
I'm guessing CV axel/joint. It has over 130k miles on it & I know these are not highway-only miles.
Makes sense?
I already have plans to replace these, but I want to make sure that it's not something else (not that I can think of anything else that I'm not already replacing: lower ball joints & wheel hub).
Does this make sense?
#14
The only difference between the two are the outboard boot. The Cardone Select 661325 has the standard neoprene boot and the Cardone Select 661325HD has the heavy duty thermoplastic boot. The price on these parts went up, when i bought 2 (661325) back in 2011, they we're only $35.20 each.
The process of warranty is very easy.
1. Log in to your Rock Auto account.
2. Click on My Account.
3. Select the order number that you want to claim the warranty.
4. Click on Request Warranty Replacement.
5. Follow the on screen instructions.
6. You will have pay for the new replacement parts but they will reimburse you when they received the damaged parts.
Hope this helps!
The process of warranty is very easy.
1. Log in to your Rock Auto account.
2. Click on My Account.
3. Select the order number that you want to claim the warranty.
4. Click on Request Warranty Replacement.
5. Follow the on screen instructions.
6. You will have pay for the new replacement parts but they will reimburse you when they received the damaged parts.
Hope this helps!
Last edited by citiboy; 12-06-2016 at 11:49 AM.
#15
X2. That was my first thought by the symptom you described. Or harmonic balancer. A bad pulley could give you vibrations in park.
#16
I know that feeling. After $6000 in repairs for a misfire that wouldn,t throw a code. I changed the intake gaskets myself and the misfire was gone.
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