New Brake Pads in 1hr
#31
02-12-2012, 07:40 PM
in today's lawsuit climate,where companies like gm probably have more lawyers than engineers and qc men, its unlikely that you would win a lawsuit,even if the gm part fell apart and you were the only surviver in the crash,wiping out your family,,and a few others.
you might do better if it were clearly an import. ultimately it will depend on who was in a better position to bribe the corrupt judge. sorry for the justified cynicism, thats life in the lawless usa,,ala eric holder/others,,,
you might do better if it were clearly an import. ultimately it will depend on who was in a better position to bribe the corrupt judge. sorry for the justified cynicism, thats life in the lawless usa,,ala eric holder/others,,,
#32
02-13-2012, 02:55 PM
I agree about not using drilled rotors. Even in my sports car clubs most people don't use them. We are not running 200 mph all day long and then jamming the brakes. Our description for drilled rotors is 'break on dotted line'. We've had a few do that in the clubs.
#33
02-13-2012, 04:02 PM
believe it,or not!
thats interesting and sounds logical.
did you know that in the early days of jet aircraft the wings kept breaking off! a flunky in the factory put in a suggestion that they drill the wings full of holes. he kept it up. they called him in and asked why? he said,probably with an accent, 'dont you notice that paper towels never tear on the perf line"!
thats why the early jet wings were full of tiny holes. i remember seeing them on 707/727 in the 60's.
check it out
did you know that in the early days of jet aircraft the wings kept breaking off! a flunky in the factory put in a suggestion that they drill the wings full of holes. he kept it up. they called him in and asked why? he said,probably with an accent, 'dont you notice that paper towels never tear on the perf line"!
thats why the early jet wings were full of tiny holes. i remember seeing them on 707/727 in the 60's.
check it out
#34
02-13-2012, 05:17 PM
It's not a matter of American made or not for me, but quality control. GM whether made here or wherever else has far stricter specs to adhere to than sum dum guys factory in china who doesn't give a crap if your rotor shatters under towing, they don't have to worry about lawsuits or anything else.
Are GM parts more expensive? Sure. Am I willing to pay a bit more so the 3 ton brick will stop to ensure my fams safety? Absolutely.
Are GM parts more expensive? Sure. Am I willing to pay a bit more so the 3 ton brick will stop to ensure my fams safety? Absolutely.
I get what you are saying but I would offer my letter from GM that I will summarize: "Your brake components may fail because we did not take into account some states use road salt. In the event your brakes fail, and you survive the crash, please feel free to contact us for replacement."
GM doesn't care anymore about specs and safety then the next d-bag out there. The arguement could be made that due to the intense scrutiny chinese manufactured products received for such a long time that they adhere to sticter standards in some areas of manufacturing to combat the idea they make second rate products.
#35
10-13-2012, 12:21 PM
Blue,
I was thinking about it but when I got in there it was so easy and I had to get done quick to pick my daughter up so I didnt do it. I may go back in and do a write up but not tonight.
This is what I did:
Jack under car
Loosen lugs
Jack up wheel
Jack stand in place
Take lugs off
Remove wheel
Pull cotter pin out of brake pad pin
Remove pins from top and bottom of caliper
Remove spring from bottom of pads connected to caliper
Pull 1 side out
Use C clamp to compress caliper
Apply lube to metal bracket on pad
Insert pad
Repeat process on second pad
Insert spring back into bottom of new pads
Insert caliper pins
Insert cotter pins
Put wheel on
Lugs on wheel
remove jack stand
lower jack just enough for tire to touch ground and use torque wrench to tighten lugs
Take jack all the way down and remove
Replace center cap
DONE!!
I was thinking about it but when I got in there it was so easy and I had to get done quick to pick my daughter up so I didnt do it. I may go back in and do a write up but not tonight.
This is what I did:
Jack under car
Loosen lugs
Jack up wheel
Jack stand in place
Take lugs off
Remove wheel
Pull cotter pin out of brake pad pin
Remove pins from top and bottom of caliper
Remove spring from bottom of pads connected to caliper
Pull 1 side out
Use C clamp to compress caliper
Apply lube to metal bracket on pad
Insert pad
Repeat process on second pad
Insert spring back into bottom of new pads
Insert caliper pins
Insert cotter pins
Put wheel on
Lugs on wheel
remove jack stand
lower jack just enough for tire to touch ground and use torque wrench to tighten lugs
Take jack all the way down and remove
Replace center cap
DONE!!
Plan to tackle this tomorrow before winter hits.
#36
10-14-2012, 12:14 AM
Rotors do NOT need to be turned/replaced at every brake job.If excessive runout or thickness varies on the rotor, ONLY then the rotor should be replaced. "Turning" the rotor causes worse stopping distance. Machining the rotor surface thinner only takes away with dissipating heat while braking.
#38
08-18-2013, 07:22 AM
Check the link below for break and rotor replacement with pictures.
BRAKE JOB Front Brakes
BRAKE JOB Front Brakes
#39
08-18-2013, 08:54 AM
I don't always turn them but ill sand them on car to freshen the surface for more grab. a few thousands turned gives a good new surface and makes no difference on stopping unless you run at Daytona!