LoJac your setup is very nice. No way would I buy the chinese ebay stuff for my H2.

 

Actually, you would be incorrect. More warm air does not make more power. The cone thing barricaded off in the corner, sounds nice, but offsets any potential gain by the heated air it brings in. Open systems do not work efficiently. When you take the potential CFM gain, heat it by 2-5 degrees F, net result is zero. For every 2 degrees increase after that, you start going backwards. The coolest air available comes from outside the underhood heated environment. It is not by mistake that GM air intake inlets draw from outside air.

Since this is a "cold air intake" thread I'll go ahead and post this comparison between an "open element" AF and a "closed element" AF here as well...

If you assume that there's 5.28 ft^3 of free air space available in a 6.0L engine compartment from the hood (closed of course) down to the bottom of the engine then this 5.28 ft^3 engine compartment air space implies that an "open element" AF which is sucking in a 528 CFM airflow to supply the engine sucks all of the available air out of the engine compartment 100 times each minute! Where does all of the needed replacement air come from?

It comes from the ambient air but thanks to the GM cooling design 100% of the ambient replacement air is forced to flow through a 150 F A/C condenser, then forced to flow through a 190 F radiator and then it picks up even more heat from the exhaust manifolds etc.. and then it flows directly into your "open element" AF!

When K&N Dynos their systems with an open hood, they do that for a reason.... so their numbers look good. Who drives 60 MPH with an open hood? I have yet to dyno an open system with the hood closed that can out perform a closed system with the hood closed on any GM truck, including Hummers.

 

I would have to agree. I have always spent a chunk of change on quality intake systems for all my vehicles.


I will completely agree with Doc!


The notion of bringing in more air (heated) versus bringing in colder air is absolutely incorrect. There is a reason every single high performance vehicle, formula 1, basically anything where a high performance engine needs to breath uses cold air systems drawing air from outside the engine compartment.


Even stock throw away cars bring their air in from the outside. Albeit through very small resonator systems but they still are aiming for the same goal.


If you want to run these systems on your rig then feel free, after all it is your vehicle. For me, living in AZ with all the dust in the air and the 120 degree summers....I'll stick with name brand products which I know will filter out the fine dust and bring in colder air. The inside temperature of your vehicle alone in AZ will reach upwards of 170 degrees. Let alone the engine compartment....

 

no i am correct, i am sure you heard of superchargers, and also turbochargers, their only job is too, push more air into motor, also if your not aware, they also increase the temp of the air, due to its velocity..

sure if you live in a dusty area, a sealed box is ideal, but you can have all the cold air you want, if its not in proper ratio to fuel, there is zero advantage...

and your reference to GM and the box, that is solely for sound restrictions...

and the vents on the side of the hummer, do you really think that they are angled correctly, to force air into the box, i suggest you really look at them, the slots are horizontal, not vertical, which would be better, as it would catch the air and direct it into the box...

K&N have been in business for many years, and used by everyone, who knows anything about performance vehicles.

Volant is nothing more then a pretty version of the stock unit...

 

Any type of forced air induction uses some form of an intercooler to cool the charged air. Yes compressing air obviously heats the air which is why the intercooler is used to bring that air temp down. Air/fuel ratios are controlled by the computer. You can add anything you want and eventually the computer will compensate for those changes unless you add a tune to compensate for the additions. While I will agree that the Volant is a more expensive stock setup. It allows me to remove 4 screws to easily take a look at my filter. Not to mention having a reusable filter plus I run a pre-filter so nothing makes its way through to the engine.

 

To look at my filter, takes no tools, I open the hood, and a prefilter, is just another , restriction, although small..

 

My 2 cents .. Keep your OEM filter and box . For better sound and look and gain just install the Airdoc .
The difference in mpg and power if you are lucky and can get any is so minimal that it is not worth it .
Plus have you ever check how much dirt and dust there is in your engine compartment after 2 weeks of cleaning . All that is going to the open filter and eventually will found a way intro the engine
Save the $ and go for a new mod

( I installed a washable filter and for the first time I saw my MPG going below 8)

 

My MPG's went up after installing the Volant and Air raid. Uh after I remembered to reset the ECM.

 

Liveinxs,do you think the intake pipe would be the same length as as a stock sys I would just like to have the pipe and fittings to go to my stock filter, and do away with all that plastic mess ??

 

You can always buy an AirDoc tube. It is pricey but the quality of the tube, finish, and hardware included are all top shelf. The price of the Clampco stainless T-clamps alone can get expensive. I know, I've bought them in the past for other projects. For the stock setup the AirDoc fits right in. In my application, mating it to the Volant box, I had to cut it down about 1.5" on each end.