Wrong.

The lower your Ohm rating is the more stress you're placing on an amp. This is why you'll see amps that mention nothing about being 1Ohm rated or being 1Ohm stable. Lower Ohm pulls more power, gets louder, but it's not as "clean" as power at 2Ohm or 4Ohm. Being experienced I can instantly tell the difference between a 4Ohm and a 1Ohm system if you're using the same brand sub, but different sizes and Ohm ratings.

I'm not trying to offend just simply stating fact. For example if the factory sub was 4Ohm and he went to a 2Ohm sub then yes, he could possibly burn the amp up if he beat on the system all the time at very high volume. Most if not all amps out there can handle 2 or 4Ohm loads. When you get down to 1Ohm that's where you want to be careful, you need quality hardware rated to be used at 1Ohm. My Cadence Daytona's are competition quality huge heavy milled aluminum amps that can handle 1Ohm all day long without failing or popping a fuse. I've gotten those amps so hot they left marks on their mounting surface. That being said I run my system at 2Ohm to the subs and 4Ohm to the doors because for my doors I'm going for quality over "my ears are bleeding" loud.

When I was gutting my stereo system I Ohm'd out everything I could for future reference. I did not have access to the sub because I didn't pull the panel. It is usually safe to assume that most factory sound systems are running at 4Ohm. This puts less stress on the electrical system, pulls less power, keeps things cooler, and when you're mass producing vehicles minimizing failure of speaks, subs, and amps is the name of the game, and running at 4Ohm will do exactly that.

The doors run at 4Ohm, I would be willing to bet the sub does too. Having seen the factory sub it is less of subwoofer and more of a 8" paper cone speaker tuned lower and masquerading as a sub. You can hear lyrics sometimes from the factory sub when putting your ear up to the panel.

 

the factory amp will work fine with any speaker close in impedance and higher in watts.
higher imp looses some power but will hurt nothing. a very much higher power spk may need more driving power but side by side you will struggle to hear a difference.

remember it takes more than DOUBLE POWER to hear a difference, and you will not be running it there xcept to demo it to your friends!!

and you will not blow up the monsoon

 

If he wired a sub up for 1Ohm and ran it off the factory amp he may blow it, but I highly doubt that is going to be the case.

 

The point I intended to make is very correct and based off of Ohm's Law. I=v/r. That as resitance goes up power output goes down. As far as the ohm rating of the monsoon sub, I stated it is my understanding. I have read many post claiming the monsoon speakers to be 1 ohm however everything I have read is conflicting, if this is incorrect sorry. The bottem line is the monsoon amp is underpowered to run most aftermarket 12" subs and lacks crossover adjustment. For example JL 12w1 an entry level sub has an RMS of 300w. 3 times what the monsoon amp can provide.

If you want the sub to sound the way it was engineered to sound install your amp.

 

cant find any actual rms power specs on their site but im sure the monsoon will drive their stuff and 99% wont tell the diff.

a "300 watt" speaker can be used with a 100 w amp

 

A sub is usually meant to be run in the top 1/3 of its range, 100 watts Max in a 300 watt 12" sub is going to sound worse than the stock sub. But your right 99% of deaf people wont be able to tell the difference.

 

Just for everybodys knowledge. The monsoon H3 sub is infact a DVC 8". 4ohm per coil.

 

well,well,well!!! i had to read that three times!,, couldnt believe th'ed mix and match components like that and the dvc8 is only 250 watt??? im surprised i can even hear it all the way up front!! and the reports said they actually beat some 12 in whiz bang woooofers.

i feel so much better now knowing my monsoon aint no junk!,,tnx taint!!

btw,did u see the pix,,it actually looks liks a speaker, imagine that

 

Just FYI for those of you considering adding a subwoofer to your existing stereo.
I put my amp and sub in this weekend and it sounds great with the factory door speakers. I used a JL Audio Digital audio converter to convert the high level Monsoon amp single to low level input to my JL amp. I am running a 4 ohm JL 12" bridged. I am really pleased with the sound of the overall system.

 

Was looking to change up the speakers in the monsoon system. Do any of you know the power out put of the monsoon amp? Does it power the door speakers as well as the sub or just the sub? and what is the volume of the stock sub encloser? Just need to know how much I need to change up. thanks