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Wiring Harness Photo Advice Request/Cam position Sensor Error
Hummer H3For the Hummer driver who wants the rugged look and off road capabilities of the Hummer, but in a smaller size and with a more fuel economy friendly engine.
Wiring Harness Photo Advice Request/Cam position Sensor Error
I just completed a 2007 engine swap in my 2006. It runs well but I’m having a recurring issue of crank no start after shutting off the engine and then attempting to restart when the engine is still hot. It only happens on very quick stops and restarts. If the engine cools it starts back up. It starts normally from cold starts. If I do get it started after one of the episodes, it runs rough. I turn it off and restart it and it’s fine.
The codes I get are p0341 camp position sensor range / performance.
I switched the sensor out for an ACDelco and it still is happening. The shop that did my swap mentioned the wiring harness was partially damaged in the rear. I also noticed they ziptied some wires, including the cam position sensor wire to the cylinder head. I removed that hoping the heat was causing resistance but it’s still happening.
the only other thing I did to the truck is install a magnaflow header. -the heat shield is not installed.
looking for a photo of an unmodified or tinkered with 06-07 wiring routing or if anyone has heard of a similar problem.
my next step is to splice new wires in if I don’t find something causing the wires to heat up and build up resistance.
now I’m even more confused because I just found my old thread from 2 years ago pre-swap with the same thing. It went away for 2 years and came back. I’m thinking it’s wiring or missing heat shield. I took the heat sheiks off to fix a crack in the manifold around the time of this previous posting. The other possibility is the shop that did my swap said they repaired some damaged wiring.
Closely inspect the harness and trace it as far back as you can to look if they did a half azzed splice somewhere. When you fix it, just use some heat resistant harness sleeve. I have run V8s with heat shields deleted with proper wire routing and heat sleeves without issue.
I’m getting conflicting information if there is only 1 cam position sensor, located on the passenger side towards the front or if there are two sensors and the silecond one is located on the front of the engine toward the driver side.
parts stores list these as exhaust side and intake Side which is dumb for our engines since they are both on the same side.
im also being told the one on the drivers side isn’t a cam position sensor but an actuator
This is for what is referred to as the “intake(driver) side” cam position sensor GM Genuine Parts 213-1649 difficult to find.
I don’t know if that one would actually throw the code in getting p0341 as I’m understanding it’s an actuator not a sensor.
On the 2006 and 2007 I5 engine, there are 2x Camshaft Sensors (one for the intake cam, one for the exhaust cam), AND a camshaft VVT actuator.
The Intake Camshaft Sensor is located on the front of the engine on the drivers side. Very easy to see.
The Exhaust Camshaft Sensor and VVT actuator are both located near the front of the engine, but on the exhaust side (passenger side) of the vehicle.
I’ve attached a photo. Arrow “A” is pointing to the location of the Exhaust Camshaft Sensor port while arrow “B” is pointing to the Exhaust Camshaft VVT actuator port.
In the 2008+ models of the 3.7, GM removed the Intake Camshaft Sensor so there was only an exhaust camshaft sensor and actuator.
Did your new engine come with new sensors, or did your mechanic simply pull the old ones from your old engine? If they pulled the old sensors and reused them, I suppose you could replace both sensors and the actuator and see if that helps, but realize that this is 100% simply throwing parts at the problem.
Realistically, I would be willing to bet (based on nothing other than speculation) that you have a wiring issue somewhere; tracing the wires from both sensors shouldn’t be terribly difficult either.
I just went and inspected my old engine and picked the mechanics brain a bit and might have put all the pieces together.
they reused my old the sensor on the front of the engine that is towards the drivers side. The one that came with the replacement engine was damaged.
this could explain why I’m getting the code I was getting 2 years ago.
he also mentioned that the wiring issue was limited to the coil for cylinder 5(rear) so maybe not related.
before I had even spoken with him I saw the empty hole for the sensor and put 2 and 2 together.
hopefully this solves the issue. I obtained the sensor that came with the replacement engine. It just had the latch knocked off. I’ll keep it handy and test it. Now just to find the sensor. I was trying to use all premium / genuine GM/ACDelco but this sensor isn’t available anywhere I’m checking. He suggested Denso as the next best.
my old engine with the sensor on the front missing
If there is any doubt with the two sensors (both the Intake and Exhaust camshaft sensors), then I would personally go ahead and replace them. They’re not too terribly expensive, and honestly, most AutoZone or Oreilly stores have them in stock. I’ve used Duralast sensors for this particular application with no headache. Duralast parts aren’t great for a lot of things, but this is one instance where I’ve used them and they’ve actually worked out okay.
While you’re at it, I would go ahead and pull and inspect the camshaft actuator solenoid (the “B” in my previous picture I posted). Things to look for are any metal/debris in the screen that could potentially clog oil flow, and also, make sure the screen is actually a) there and b) still intact (not hanging on for dear life, or otherwise damaged/compromised). If that screen comes loose and gets clogged in the oil passages, that obviously could lead to engine damage.
I don’t know if Oreillys or Auto Zone has that part in stock, but I was able to purchase it for very cheap on Amazon.
Keep us informed on what happens and if you find a solution!
Last edited by Spanovich008; Jan 17, 2026 at 09:51 PM.
I just went through the problem scenario - heat soak - crank - no start and swapped in the sensor off the replacement engine cured the crank no start.
The mechanic had re-used my old sensor that I had trouble with 2 years ago because the sensor that came on the replacement engine had the connector latch broken off.
I’m guessing I stopped having the trouble with the old sensor because I had flushed the antifreeze at the time and put in 60% distilled water 40% antifreeze and my engine was running cooler, below the 50% line on the temp gauge - so less heat related signal resistance. After the recent swap, I have in 50/50 and the temps are right at 50% on the gauge.
the replacement sensor connected snug and I was able to get it started no fuss, no code(after clearing the codes from the crank no start). I have 2 sensors on delivery for tomorrow, a Standard motor Products PC658 and a Delphi SS11946. I think I’ll use the Delphi because I was told they are a GM OEM/ACDelco supplierI’ll keep the spare sensors in the tailgate compartment with my recovery gear.