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SOLVED: Stalling, Not Starting, Brakes Locking, Traction Control Off, & More

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Old Apr 19, 2021 | 07:23 PM
  #1  
Dylan Rogers's Avatar
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From: Idaho
Default SOLVED: Stalling, Not Starting, Brakes Locking, Traction Control Off, & More

My H3 would only start occasionally and would stall after coming to a stop. The ABS warning, traction control warning, and many other flashing lights were present on the dash. The brakes locked themselves up, the gauges stopped working, I was getting odd battery voltages, the brake-lights would not shut off, and I could not figure out what was wrong!

After a couple days had passed, I decided to triple check the fuses and discovered my problem. The blades of the fuse (not the filament) for the BCM were corroded and had arching and scorching marks. This was a great clue, so I sanded down the blades, replaced the fuse, reconnected the battery, and the H3 started right up! I drove around for 20 minutes while stopping, starting, turning it on and off, and traveling on uneven terrain to ensure it was not "a coincidence." I was convinced it was related to the common pass-lock or BCM problems, but it ended up being a simple $0.05 (or free) repair!

I hope this can be of help to others who might experience this problem in the future. Here is a photo of the fuse causing my problem:

 
Old Apr 20, 2021 | 07:21 AM
  #2  
ski.dive's Avatar
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What number fuse is the fuse for the BCM ?
 
Old Apr 20, 2021 | 09:16 AM
  #3  
Doc Olds's Avatar
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Posts: 13,090
From: Boat Town USA MI
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Are you still using the Crappy Azzed OEM Battery Terminal Connectors?

If so, everybody here knows the rest, hack them off immediately and replace with a quality aftermarket set like Stingers or your favorite brand.
 
Old Apr 20, 2021 | 02:24 PM
  #4  
H3Luxembourg's Avatar
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Posts: 307
From: Luxembourg EU
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Originally Posted by Dylan Rogers
My H3 would only start occasionally and would stall after coming to a stop. The ABS warning, traction control warning, and many other flashing lights were present on the dash. The brakes locked themselves up, the gauges stopped working, I was getting odd battery voltages, the brake-lights would not shut off, and I could not figure out what was wrong!

After a couple days had passed, I decided to triple check the fuses and discovered my problem. The blades of the fuse (not the filament) for the BCM were corroded and had arching and scorching marks. This was a great clue, so I sanded down the blades, replaced the fuse, reconnected the battery, and the H3 started right up! I drove around for 20 minutes while stopping, starting, turning it on and off, and traveling on uneven terrain to ensure it was not "a coincidence." I was convinced it was related to the common pass-lock or BCM problems, but it ended up being a simple $0.05 (or free) repair!

I hope this can be of help to others who might experience this problem in the future. Here is a photo of the fuse causing my problem:

glad you've resolved that.
 
Old Apr 27, 2021 | 07:59 PM
  #5  
Dylan Rogers's Avatar
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From: Idaho
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Originally Posted by ski.dive
What number fuse is the fuse for the BCM ?
On the underside of the fuse panel cover it shows the number for BCM (#14).

Originally Posted by Doc Olds
Are you still using the Crappy Azzed OEM Battery Terminal Connectors? If so, everybody here knows the rest, hack them off immediately and replace with a quality aftermarket set like Stingers or your favorite brand.
I am, indeed. I have purchased some similar to the Stingers but haven't installed them yet. Still sorting out my axle and ignition lock cylinder. I'll certainly get to it, though!

Originally Posted by H3Luxembourg
glad you've resolved that.
Thanks Lux, I'm glad, too! I was super worried about it.
 
Old Apr 10, 2022 | 06:32 PM
  #6  
H3MikeNY's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 24
From: Update NY
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Good evening all,
We own a ‘06 H3 and I have just finished repairing the HVAC harness…. Dang blower motor stopped working.
Anywho, in the midst of diag I was fiddling w/ the fuses and relays in the underhood power distribution box and am starting to notice quite a bit of corrosion in the female terminals where the fuses/relays plug into.
I am fearful of what I am going to uncover when/if I decide to remove the fuse box and expose the wiring underneath.

Has anyone already experienced/repaired this issue?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
 
Old Apr 11, 2022 | 10:53 AM
  #7  
bronxteck's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 3,192
From: BX NY North East
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yes a few people with H3's have had the green crusties attack there under hood fuse center. some replaced it some opened them up and cleaned them as best as possible. sometimes the metal cross bars inside are cracked causing intermittent power issues.
 
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