You have to reset your lock settings, there's 3 different combos listed in your manual. The best is #1 for the most common features. All you do is turn your key backwards in the ignition, hold down the lock button on drivers door till it says on little odometer screen to pick 1, 2, or 3. Then everything works as it did before, locks, driver window, and remote.
I unhooked my battery to install an amp and then mine was messed up exactly like the problems you all had, so I grabbed my owners manual to see if my remote needed to be reprogramed. There it tells you the steps to pick your lock/unlock settings. It takes about 5 minutes total.

 

Good additional info but you neglected to say how you pick 1 2 or 3? What do you press to select????? Thanks

 

at first look, kennys post looks like a procedure for a good door assm working ok. nobody has mentioned this as a method of getting a malfunctioning nodule reset. it might be worth trying as it doesn't call for removal or shorting the batt cables that seems to be recommended procedure for all ills!

I don't know how that underline got there.

remember all reprogramming takes place in the bcm and has no way of redoing the door module program.

 

Sorry, just put key in, don't turn it on hold down door lock button and screen will say lock 1 push reset button quickly to pick that one or hold a little longer till it says 2 then push quickly to pick that one, then 3....
Lock 1 is the main one so that's your best bet.
It all stems from battery going to low or being disconnected. You have to reset the circuit, an earlier post by someone said pull fuse #8 and relay #68 from under the hoods fuse panel, at same time, put both back in and it resets that circuit.
I did that the second time it happened, (ran battery to low working on stereo) and it reset it's self again, works fine.

 

Remote Keyless Entry (RKE)

This feature allows you to program your Remote
Keyless Entry (RKE) feedback to a preferred
setting.
To set your choice for this feature, perform the
following steps:
1. With the engine off, turn the key to LOCK.
Do not remove the key from the ignition.

2. Press and hold the lock and unlock buttons
on the RKE transmitter at the same time.
Hold both buttons until the DIC display shows
the current RKE feedback mode.

3. To view the next available mode, press and
hold the reset stem for about two seconds.
Release the reset stem and press and
hold again to view each mode.
4. Once the desired mode is shown on the DIC
display, briefly press the reset stem to set
your choice. The DIC display will then clear.

The following are the available modes:
RFA 1 (default): This mode flashes the parking
lamps when you press the lock or unlock
buttons on the RKE transmitter.

RFA 2: This mode flashes the parking lamps and
sounds the horn when you press the lock button
on the RKE transmitter. This mode also flashes the
parking lamps when you press the unlock button
on the RKE transmitter.

RFA 3: This mode flashes the parking lamps
and sounds the horn when you press the lock or
unlock buttons on the RKE transmitter.

RFA 4: This mode disables RKE feedback. There
will be no feedback when you press the lock or
unlock buttons on the RKE transmitter.

 

"It all stems from battery going to low or being disconnected"


finally, the key to the mystery! I posted a pix of the circuit board showing the electronics. an abrupt drop in volts probably does not much but a SLOW drift down can make some chips go crazy. that big chip is a "pic" chip and would carry the program logic for door operations.
btw fuse 8 is the complete power to the board, idk what the relay 68 does. I got lazy looking for it. no matter.
pulling fuse 8,as Kenny did, will do the job.i may seem relentless on this, ok, im a component level tech as trained and as a hobby for years.
Kenny jogged my memory!

 

Never been any mystery, my post #6 said it is because of a voltage drop. Doh.... this is old news.

 

Well Doc, I'm a new member with a new to me H3.

 

My post was directed at Happy, not you Kenny. Your info was some good stuff.

This problem also has the ability to reset itself after at least 3 ignition cycles, assuming the battery is not toast. Ignition cycle means start through normal operating temp. The next ignition cycle would be after cool down from the one before it. (In other words, you can't just start and shut off 3 time at full operating temp.)

If it does not reset after 5, then it is safe to assume you have to do something to reset it yourself.

There is always more than one way to skin a cat, you added another.

 

So ,are you saying this 3 cycles is part of the factory procedure? have we been missing this all along?
After all this endless discussion?

and the temp?