Power Locks and Driver Side Window not working
#111
05-05-2013, 08:14 PM
Junior Member
Alright Everyone, I must admit... I examined the wiring harness myself when this first started a few months ago but could not see any wear.
I HAVE FIXED MINE FOR NEXT TO NOTHING. Only issue... I bought the drivers door switch and it turns out I did not need it.
If you examine the wiring harhess from the frame to the drivers door and see any crack in plastic coding or wear, well then u r 100% in the same boat as I, I actually removed both ends of the harness and 2 pins were corroded. Both of them, orange which really helps. I by passed mine through the actual plugs and all work well. one pin was completely gone and the female end was green like never seen before. Once I seen that I followed the wireds up till I found clean cooper and spliced from there. The plug on the wiring harness has 4 holes available and a small Phillips screwdriver inserted into the hole bored a 16 gauge hole that allowed me to feed the wires through.
Check the orange wires and If need be I can take a couple of pics to show how and why I repaired this.
I must say thank you to everyone though and Cheers as all of the suggestions were appreciated and like I said I would post once we fond the problem.
The best part I did not have to pay GM anything as they could not find the problem so that is when I said For F**K Sakes come off it and started looking further as I have 20 years experience in the automotive repair industry.
I HAVE FIXED MINE FOR NEXT TO NOTHING. Only issue... I bought the drivers door switch and it turns out I did not need it.
If you examine the wiring harhess from the frame to the drivers door and see any crack in plastic coding or wear, well then u r 100% in the same boat as I, I actually removed both ends of the harness and 2 pins were corroded. Both of them, orange which really helps. I by passed mine through the actual plugs and all work well. one pin was completely gone and the female end was green like never seen before. Once I seen that I followed the wireds up till I found clean cooper and spliced from there. The plug on the wiring harness has 4 holes available and a small Phillips screwdriver inserted into the hole bored a 16 gauge hole that allowed me to feed the wires through.
Check the orange wires and If need be I can take a couple of pics to show how and why I repaired this.
I must say thank you to everyone though and Cheers as all of the suggestions were appreciated and like I said I would post once we fond the problem.
The best part I did not have to pay GM anything as they could not find the problem so that is when I said For F**K Sakes come off it and started looking further as I have 20 years experience in the automotive repair industry.
#112
05-06-2013, 06:02 PM
Alright Everyone, I must admit... I examined the wiring harness myself when this first started a few months ago but could not see any wear.
I HAVE FIXED MINE FOR NEXT TO NOTHING. Only issue... I bought the drivers door switch and it turns out I did not need it.
If you examine the wiring harhess from the frame to the drivers door and see any crack in plastic coding or wear, well then u r 100% in the same boat as I, I actually removed both ends of the harness and 2 pins were corroded. Both of them, orange which really helps. I by passed mine through the actual plugs and all work well. one pin was completely gone and the female end was green like never seen before. Once I seen that I followed the wireds up till I found clean cooper and spliced from there. The plug on the wiring harness has 4 holes available and a small Phillips screwdriver inserted into the hole bored a 16 gauge hole that allowed me to feed the wires through.
Check the orange wires and If need be I can take a couple of pics to show how and why I repaired this.
I must say thank you to everyone though and Cheers as all of the suggestions were appreciated and like I said I would post once we fond the problem.
The best part I did not have to pay GM anything as they could not find the problem so that is when I said For F**K Sakes come off it and started looking further as I have 20 years experience in the automotive repair industry.
I HAVE FIXED MINE FOR NEXT TO NOTHING. Only issue... I bought the drivers door switch and it turns out I did not need it.
If you examine the wiring harhess from the frame to the drivers door and see any crack in plastic coding or wear, well then u r 100% in the same boat as I, I actually removed both ends of the harness and 2 pins were corroded. Both of them, orange which really helps. I by passed mine through the actual plugs and all work well. one pin was completely gone and the female end was green like never seen before. Once I seen that I followed the wireds up till I found clean cooper and spliced from there. The plug on the wiring harness has 4 holes available and a small Phillips screwdriver inserted into the hole bored a 16 gauge hole that allowed me to feed the wires through.
Check the orange wires and If need be I can take a couple of pics to show how and why I repaired this.
I must say thank you to everyone though and Cheers as all of the suggestions were appreciated and like I said I would post once we fond the problem.
The best part I did not have to pay GM anything as they could not find the problem so that is when I said For F**K Sakes come off it and started looking further as I have 20 years experience in the automotive repair industry.
You previously posted that you checked powers & grounds at the master switch, however I can see you missed 1. The orange wire comes from fuse #8 and powers the door locks. There is also a yellow wire that comes from relay #68 that powers the windows. Obviously both positives are needed to power the master switch control module.
I knew that the bcm was out of the question!
Nice to see that you were able to get the repair done yourself. I know, as you know to, it takes patience to work on vehicles, especially when it comes to electrical problems.
Btw, you could sell your master switch assembly on ebay: LIKE NEW, FOR TESTING PURPOSES ONLY, and still get top dollar...
Last edited by hummerz; 05-06-2013 at 06:09 PM.
#113
05-11-2013, 10:56 PM
Junior Member
Nice idea, I will do that for sure. Hope it helps people in the future
#114
05-12-2013, 11:33 AM
ihad the same problem. turns out i had a bad battery and bad connections prior to the battery dying. anytime the connection is loose it happens or when there is a drop in voltage. 11 volts was enough to cause my h3 not to start and halt the function of the window switch and keyless entry.
#116
12-05-2013, 05:18 PM
Hey all,
I want to share my findings about this rogue problem. It has happened to me twice so far on my 07 H3X and the first time it happened was due to my battery dying from leaving my lights on. All I did was disconnect my (pos) battery terminal for 30 minutes and reconnected to find my issue was resolved. It had worked fine with no problems until I had to disconnect my battery to do some electrical work to my alarm system. Lo and behold the problem resurfaced. I read through this ENTIRE thread all tried all the "free" fixes, with no avail. I remember reading in another forum "Some GM vehicles have a computer programming that if the computer realizes that there is something wrong with the battery (EX: Dead/Dying battery) the computer will start to turn off non-essensials to save battery life. Most GMs will start with the Driver window and power locks." After trying everything, I figured I would combine all fixes to one. Here were my steps:
1. Disconnect (pos) battery terminal and leave (neg) on.
2. I hooked a battery charger to my (pos) and (neg) terminals after checking/cleaning off the terminals.
3. I checked #8 and #68 fuse and relays and switched #77 with the one above.
4. I disconnected my master switch from the drivers door and brought it inside.
5. While inside, I took apart the master switch to check the circuit board for any corrosion or shorts.
6. After about 30 minutes I went back outside with my re-assembled master switch.
7. I unhooked the battery charger and reconnected my (pos) terminal.
8. I manually unlocked my door with key.
9. Started my H3
9. With driver-side door open, I reconnected the master switch.
10. Attempted windows, WORKED. Attempted locks, WORKED. Without any wait after reconnecting the master switch.
Those were my step by step actions. Hopefully this can help others just as you all helped me. THANK YOU! I am aware that I may run into this problem again when I need to disconnect my battery to buy a new one, and when I do I will see if the problem persists! I wish all with this problem GOOD LUCK and hopefully my steps can help other 3 owners in the future!
I want to share my findings about this rogue problem. It has happened to me twice so far on my 07 H3X and the first time it happened was due to my battery dying from leaving my lights on. All I did was disconnect my (pos) battery terminal for 30 minutes and reconnected to find my issue was resolved. It had worked fine with no problems until I had to disconnect my battery to do some electrical work to my alarm system. Lo and behold the problem resurfaced. I read through this ENTIRE thread all tried all the "free" fixes, with no avail. I remember reading in another forum "Some GM vehicles have a computer programming that if the computer realizes that there is something wrong with the battery (EX: Dead/Dying battery) the computer will start to turn off non-essensials to save battery life. Most GMs will start with the Driver window and power locks." After trying everything, I figured I would combine all fixes to one. Here were my steps:
1. Disconnect (pos) battery terminal and leave (neg) on.
2. I hooked a battery charger to my (pos) and (neg) terminals after checking/cleaning off the terminals.
3. I checked #8 and #68 fuse and relays and switched #77 with the one above.
4. I disconnected my master switch from the drivers door and brought it inside.
5. While inside, I took apart the master switch to check the circuit board for any corrosion or shorts.
6. After about 30 minutes I went back outside with my re-assembled master switch.
7. I unhooked the battery charger and reconnected my (pos) terminal.
8. I manually unlocked my door with key.
9. Started my H3
9. With driver-side door open, I reconnected the master switch.
10. Attempted windows, WORKED. Attempted locks, WORKED. Without any wait after reconnecting the master switch.
Those were my step by step actions. Hopefully this can help others just as you all helped me. THANK YOU! I am aware that I may run into this problem again when I need to disconnect my battery to buy a new one, and when I do I will see if the problem persists! I wish all with this problem GOOD LUCK and hopefully my steps can help other 3 owners in the future!
#117
12-05-2013, 08:32 PM
jfwiw, over years I had my batt unhooked dozens of times with zero effects..
last time in oct.
having said that, today, while driving home my doors clicked unlock as I rolled down the road. I hit lock the first time. minutes later it unlocked again??
now, I do have a remote hidden on the h3 for emergency. I will pull it out.
I don't see the connection with anything.??
last time in oct.
having said that, today, while driving home my doors clicked unlock as I rolled down the road. I hit lock the first time. minutes later it unlocked again??
now, I do have a remote hidden on the h3 for emergency. I will pull it out.
I don't see the connection with anything.??
#118
12-06-2013, 05:09 AM
Hey all,
I want to share my findings about this rogue problem. It has happened to me twice so far on my 07 H3X and the first time it happened was due to my battery dying from leaving my lights on. All I did was disconnect my (pos) battery terminal for 30 minutes and reconnected to find my issue was resolved. It had worked fine with no problems until I had to disconnect my battery to do some electrical work to my alarm system. Lo and behold the problem resurfaced. I read through this ENTIRE thread all tried all the "free" fixes, with no avail. I remember reading in another forum "Some GM vehicles have a computer programming that if the computer realizes that there is something wrong with the battery (EX: Dead/Dying battery) the computer will start to turn off non-essensials to save battery life. Most GMs will start with the Driver window and power locks." After trying everything, I figured I would combine all fixes to one. Here were my steps:
1. Disconnect (pos) battery terminal and leave (neg) on.
2. I hooked a battery charger to my (pos) and (neg) terminals after checking/cleaning off the terminals.
3. I checked #8 and #68 fuse and relays and switched #77 with the one above.
4. I disconnected my master switch from the drivers door and brought it inside.
5. While inside, I took apart the master switch to check the circuit board for any corrosion or shorts.
6. After about 30 minutes I went back outside with my re-assembled master switch.
7. I unhooked the battery charger and reconnected my (pos) terminal.
8. I manually unlocked my door with key.
9. Started my H3
9. With driver-side door open, I reconnected the master switch.
10. Attempted windows, WORKED. Attempted locks, WORKED. Without any wait after reconnecting the master switch.
Those were my step by step actions. Hopefully this can help others just as you all helped me. THANK YOU! I am aware that I may run into this problem again when I need to disconnect my battery to buy a new one, and when I do I will see if the problem persists! I wish all with this problem GOOD LUCK and hopefully my steps can help other 3 owners in the future!
I want to share my findings about this rogue problem. It has happened to me twice so far on my 07 H3X and the first time it happened was due to my battery dying from leaving my lights on. All I did was disconnect my (pos) battery terminal for 30 minutes and reconnected to find my issue was resolved. It had worked fine with no problems until I had to disconnect my battery to do some electrical work to my alarm system. Lo and behold the problem resurfaced. I read through this ENTIRE thread all tried all the "free" fixes, with no avail. I remember reading in another forum "Some GM vehicles have a computer programming that if the computer realizes that there is something wrong with the battery (EX: Dead/Dying battery) the computer will start to turn off non-essensials to save battery life. Most GMs will start with the Driver window and power locks." After trying everything, I figured I would combine all fixes to one. Here were my steps:
1. Disconnect (pos) battery terminal and leave (neg) on.
2. I hooked a battery charger to my (pos) and (neg) terminals after checking/cleaning off the terminals.
3. I checked #8 and #68 fuse and relays and switched #77 with the one above.
4. I disconnected my master switch from the drivers door and brought it inside.
5. While inside, I took apart the master switch to check the circuit board for any corrosion or shorts.
6. After about 30 minutes I went back outside with my re-assembled master switch.
7. I unhooked the battery charger and reconnected my (pos) terminal.
8. I manually unlocked my door with key.
9. Started my H3
9. With driver-side door open, I reconnected the master switch.
10. Attempted windows, WORKED. Attempted locks, WORKED. Without any wait after reconnecting the master switch.
Those were my step by step actions. Hopefully this can help others just as you all helped me. THANK YOU! I am aware that I may run into this problem again when I need to disconnect my battery to buy a new one, and when I do I will see if the problem persists! I wish all with this problem GOOD LUCK and hopefully my steps can help other 3 owners in the future!
Last edited by ultraclassic01; 12-06-2013 at 05:12 AM.
#119
12-08-2013, 03:02 PM
Hey everybody! I want to start by thanking everyone who contributes to this forum. Your experiences and solutions are very much appreciated. I was able to resolve a leaky sunroof issue on my '07 H3 thanks to you fine folks. If you fix a problem, no matter how small, please be sure to post it!
I have had several low-energy starts for the last month here in Kansas, and I began to experience the door lock/ driver's window issue the day after Thanksgiving, but I touched the + to the - and gained a reprieve. Well, I had a dead battery this morning. After replacing the battery (I have known it was on it's way out for a while), I tried and retried all the "tricks:" touching the terminal cables, jiggling and replacing the fuses, dis- and reconnecting the master switch, mashing the buttons on my key FOB while chanting and waving a dead chicken, etc.
Here's what finally worked: I disconnected the master control switch assembly from the driver's side door, brought it in out of the cold (22 F), warmed it up under a heat gun for 1-2 minutes, and reinstalled it. Full function restored!
Thanks again Hummer Forums!
I have had several low-energy starts for the last month here in Kansas, and I began to experience the door lock/ driver's window issue the day after Thanksgiving, but I touched the + to the - and gained a reprieve. Well, I had a dead battery this morning. After replacing the battery (I have known it was on it's way out for a while), I tried and retried all the "tricks:" touching the terminal cables, jiggling and replacing the fuses, dis- and reconnecting the master switch, mashing the buttons on my key FOB while chanting and waving a dead chicken, etc.
Here's what finally worked: I disconnected the master control switch assembly from the driver's side door, brought it in out of the cold (22 F), warmed it up under a heat gun for 1-2 minutes, and reinstalled it. Full function restored!
Thanks again Hummer Forums!
#120
12-08-2013, 07:44 PM
it must be the connector needing cleaning by unplug/repluging. exercising the contacts.
that door gets opened , in the rain etc. wonder if theres a connection?
that door gets opened , in the rain etc. wonder if theres a connection?