Power door lock issues
#1
Power door lock issues
2006 H3 Adventure, 89k miles, we have owned it for about 4 months. Seems if its not one thing its something else. Its a beautiful clean truck and Wife still loves it!
Here is the problem today.
Currently we are not using the key FOBs and are just using the key to unlock the door. I just ordered her new ones but that irrelevant.
All of a sudden when you turn it off and take out the key, a bell dings (It never did that before) Like you left the lights on or something!
Then when you manually push the door lock button on the driver door, it will lock all 4 doors but then the drivers side automatically unlocks itself. The other 3 stay locked!
So the only way to lock it is to close the door and use the key.
My Silverado will do that if it running and you try to lock it while not in gear.
We did not purposely try to change anything, It just began doing this on its own.
Cable ends are clean and tight. Not replaced yet but clean and tight!
Any ideas?
Here is the problem today.
Currently we are not using the key FOBs and are just using the key to unlock the door. I just ordered her new ones but that irrelevant.
All of a sudden when you turn it off and take out the key, a bell dings (It never did that before) Like you left the lights on or something!
Then when you manually push the door lock button on the driver door, it will lock all 4 doors but then the drivers side automatically unlocks itself. The other 3 stay locked!
So the only way to lock it is to close the door and use the key.
My Silverado will do that if it running and you try to lock it while not in gear.
We did not purposely try to change anything, It just began doing this on its own.
Cable ends are clean and tight. Not replaced yet but clean and tight!
Any ideas?
#2
There is no such thing as a "clean and tight" battery terminal connection if you are still using those POS OEM terminal connectors. You really must have no idea how much these vehicle depend upon a precise and consistent voltage to the PCM to operate without issue.
Since you have not bothered to change those out (we told you before), I will not bother to answer your question.
Since you have not bothered to change those out (we told you before), I will not bother to answer your question.
#3
The truck has "lead type screw on, old school battery terminals on it" with soldered ends. All I meant was I didn't just replace them. The first thing I check and replace with electrical issues is the cables and connections. They are all good clean and tight and the battery tests good. It was dead this morning so I charged and tested it so something is not right.
Thanks for your help, if you have any other ideas!
Thanks for your help, if you have any other ideas!
#4
The truck has "lead type screw on, old school battery terminals on it" with soldered ends. All I meant was I didn't just replace them. The first thing I check and replace with electrical issues is the cables and connections. They are all good clean and tight and the battery tests good. It was dead this morning so I charged and tested it so something is not right.
Thanks for your help, if you have any other ideas!
Thanks for your help, if you have any other ideas!
I had one, and so did others, where the wire harness for the license plate light and trailer hitch go under the chassis to the bumper. Open the back door and see if you have any wires rubbing on the frame or chassis cutting through the wire insulation. Check that, fingers crossed.
#5
normal drain is 110 milliamp. 1/10 amp to run computer.
i had a stuck cd and the radio tried all day ! to unstick it,killing the batt in 2 days. i fixed the cd and all is well again.
i could not see the drain!! maybe just happened on a schedule??
the stuck cd came when i got rearended, bang, jolted the player i guess.
i had a stuck cd and the radio tried all day ! to unstick it,killing the batt in 2 days. i fixed the cd and all is well again.
i could not see the drain!! maybe just happened on a schedule??
the stuck cd came when i got rearended, bang, jolted the player i guess.
#6
I put the hot battery back in Friday before going out of town and it was dead when we got home today. I will crawl around under it some tomorrow and check those areas. I cant help but think it has something to do with that bell dinging. It just started doing that and nothing is on and the key removed.
Thanks for your help. I will let you guys know if and when I find it.
Thanks for your help. I will let you guys know if and when I find it.
#8
Electrical issue
I have looked around in the obvious places and the ones mentioned above for a short and don't see anything that looks like it is cutting into any wires. None crushed kinked or overly twisted that I can see.
I am leaning toward something with the ignition just because all this started when that bell started dinging and the door lock responded as thought the key were still in the ignition.
The only solid clues I have are.
I have also checked everything to make sure its all working bulbs, switches etc... everything but that seat button works fine.
Thanks again,
I am leaning toward something with the ignition just because all this started when that bell started dinging and the door lock responded as thought the key were still in the ignition.
The only solid clues I have are.
- It acts exactly like the key is still in the ignition. The bell dings and the driver door will not lock.
- The battery will drain dead in 8-10 hrs.
- It is completely stock. No aftermarket parts added. Prior electrical issues are one of the passenger power seat buttons does not work and it coded once and went into limp mode. I replaced the battery terminals, cleaned the throttle body and all the other recommendations from the forum and it reset itself and has been perfect since.
- We did have a new key cut about 3 weeks back because my wife lost hers. It works just fine though!
- We have new key FOB's but they have not been programed yet. Old ones died where really worn so I bought some new ones for the wife as a stocking stuffer.
I have also checked everything to make sure its all working bulbs, switches etc... everything but that seat button works fine.
Thanks again,
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