PO 0017 code with a PO 0300 to boot. Runs rough...
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Senior Member
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Posts: 869
From: Lewes Delaware
PO 0017 code with a PO 0300 to boot. Runs rough...
So need some help here. Just had a run on the ocean beach for some surf fishing. On the way back things were running shaky. Almost stalled out at any red lights. Motor is shaking badly.
So new plugs and coils. No luck. It does start and run. Just running badly. Garage smells like gas unburned.
What to do ?
- Seafoam fuel treatment in event of injector fouling.
-Camshaft solenoid replacement.
-????
-Any ideas?
So new plugs and coils. No luck. It does start and run. Just running badly. Garage smells like gas unburned.
What to do ?
- Seafoam fuel treatment in event of injector fouling.
-Camshaft solenoid replacement.
-????
-Any ideas?
Last edited by wpage; Sep 4, 2025 at 06:42 AM.
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 869
From: Lewes Delaware
Follow up on my 2006 h3 po 0017 code. The 0300 code dropped off the scans. Orderd camshaft solenoid ( pulled the old camshaft solenoid nothing evident on inspection )
Fuel treatment no solution there. Still serious engine vibrations at idle Certainly not road worthy with chance of stalls.
Any suggestions for other remedies?
Fuel treatment no solution there. Still serious engine vibrations at idle Certainly not road worthy with chance of stalls.
Any suggestions for other remedies?
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 8,999
From: C-Town
The P0017 OBD-II code signifies a correlation issue between the crankshaft position and the Bank 1 exhaust camshaft position, meaning they are out of sync, often caused by problems with the engine's mechanical timing, the Variable Valve Timing (VVT) system, or issues with engine oil. Symptoms can include poor engine performance, a rough idle, sluggish acceleration, and reduced fuel efficiency, making it recommended to have the issue diagnosed and repaired promptly.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 121
The P0300 is likely just a symptom of the P0017 (the actual culprit at hand).
1) Inspect wiring connectors leading to the Exhaust Camshaft Sensor and the Camshaft VVT Solenoid. Look for the obvious; disconnections, frayed wires, corrosion, etc.
2) Remove/Inspect the Camshaft VVT Solenoid - look at the small metal screens on the solenoid and check to see a) if they’re actually still there as sometimes they can break loose and get into the engine b) check to see if there is any debris blocking the small metal screens which would restrict oil flow. Removing this solenoid requires only a 10mm socket.
If there is no metal screen on the solenoid, then it’s possible it is lodged somewhere in the engine, either restricting oil flow and messing up the VVT system or is jammed up into the cam phaser (either way, not good). If there is simply debris, clean the solenoid, reinstall and try again.
If all checks out, and/or nothing has worked so far.
3) Replace the Camshaft VVT Solenoid - Yes you could argue this is simply throwing parts at the problem, but this part is relatively cheap. I got a Standard Motor Products (SMP) one from Rock Auto for only $32 and it has worked fine for me so far.
If you really want to cheap out, I have a (known working) used one which I can send you if you pay for shipping
If the new VVT solenoid doesn’t work.
4) Replace the Exhaust Camshaft Sensor (not the solenoid). I do not know of how exactly you would test this sensor other than by trial and error (maybe someone smarter than me can chime in), so I would personally just replace it. It’s also relatively cheap. Roughly $16-30 online. I replaced my old factory sensor with a Dorman on my engine and it works well so far. I also have a used (known working) one of these if you want it as well.
If you still have the issue, then it may be something more mechanical, both of which would require removal of the valve cover and neither would be fun to do.
5) timing chain jumped a tooth - would require a new chain, which would require removing the front timing cover, which would require removal of the oil pan. Several videos online. This is very labor intensive with the engine still in the vehicle, but still doable.
6) cam phaser is sticking/stuck/not moving to the proper position that the PCM is commanding - would require removal of the exhaust cam phaser to either replace it or bench test it with compressed air (couple videos online on how to do this). To do this, you will either need a specialty tool, or get really creative with plastic zip ties/etc. to keep tension on the timing chain with the cam phaser removed. If the chain becomes loose or you lose too much tension on the timing chain, it will become out of time on the engine crankshaft sprocket, then you will need to remove the front timing cover, just like you would if you were replacing the timing chain.
7) only other thing I could possibly see causing this would be low oil flow (clogged filter, extremely thick/dirty, blocked oil passages, etc.) but if you have this problem, I would at least think you would get the Oil Pressure light, so I’m guessing is not a factor in your case.
Keep us informed; let me know through PM if you need the two sensors.
1) Inspect wiring connectors leading to the Exhaust Camshaft Sensor and the Camshaft VVT Solenoid. Look for the obvious; disconnections, frayed wires, corrosion, etc.
2) Remove/Inspect the Camshaft VVT Solenoid - look at the small metal screens on the solenoid and check to see a) if they’re actually still there as sometimes they can break loose and get into the engine b) check to see if there is any debris blocking the small metal screens which would restrict oil flow. Removing this solenoid requires only a 10mm socket.
If there is no metal screen on the solenoid, then it’s possible it is lodged somewhere in the engine, either restricting oil flow and messing up the VVT system or is jammed up into the cam phaser (either way, not good). If there is simply debris, clean the solenoid, reinstall and try again.
If all checks out, and/or nothing has worked so far.
3) Replace the Camshaft VVT Solenoid - Yes you could argue this is simply throwing parts at the problem, but this part is relatively cheap. I got a Standard Motor Products (SMP) one from Rock Auto for only $32 and it has worked fine for me so far.
If you really want to cheap out, I have a (known working) used one which I can send you if you pay for shipping
If the new VVT solenoid doesn’t work.
4) Replace the Exhaust Camshaft Sensor (not the solenoid). I do not know of how exactly you would test this sensor other than by trial and error (maybe someone smarter than me can chime in), so I would personally just replace it. It’s also relatively cheap. Roughly $16-30 online. I replaced my old factory sensor with a Dorman on my engine and it works well so far. I also have a used (known working) one of these if you want it as well.
If you still have the issue, then it may be something more mechanical, both of which would require removal of the valve cover and neither would be fun to do.
5) timing chain jumped a tooth - would require a new chain, which would require removing the front timing cover, which would require removal of the oil pan. Several videos online. This is very labor intensive with the engine still in the vehicle, but still doable.
6) cam phaser is sticking/stuck/not moving to the proper position that the PCM is commanding - would require removal of the exhaust cam phaser to either replace it or bench test it with compressed air (couple videos online on how to do this). To do this, you will either need a specialty tool, or get really creative with plastic zip ties/etc. to keep tension on the timing chain with the cam phaser removed. If the chain becomes loose or you lose too much tension on the timing chain, it will become out of time on the engine crankshaft sprocket, then you will need to remove the front timing cover, just like you would if you were replacing the timing chain.
7) only other thing I could possibly see causing this would be low oil flow (clogged filter, extremely thick/dirty, blocked oil passages, etc.) but if you have this problem, I would at least think you would get the Oil Pressure light, so I’m guessing is not a factor in your case.
Keep us informed; let me know through PM if you need the two sensors.
Last edited by Spanovich008; Sep 4, 2025 at 10:50 PM.
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 869
From: Lewes Delaware
The unburned gas smell is from the exhaust pipe end.
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 869
From: Lewes Delaware
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 869
From: Lewes Delaware
The P0300 is likely just a symptom of the P0017 (the actual culprit at hand).
1) Inspect wiring connectors leading to the Exhaust Camshaft Sensor and the Camshaft VVT Solenoid. Look for the obvious; disconnections, frayed wires, corrosion, etc.
2) Remove/Inspect the Camshaft VVT Solenoid - look at the small metal screens on the solenoid and check to see a) if they’re actually still there as sometimes they can break loose and get into the engine b) check to see if there is any debris blocking the small metal screens which would restrict oil flow. Removing this solenoid requires only a 10mm socket.
If there is no metal screen on the solenoid, then it’s possible it is lodged somewhere in the engine, either restricting oil flow and messing up the VVT system or is jammed up into the cam phaser (either way, not good). If there is simply debris, clean the solenoid, reinstall and try again.
If all checks out, and/or nothing has worked so far.
3) Replace the Camshaft VVT Solenoid - Yes you could argue this is simply throwing parts at the problem, but this part is relatively cheap. I got a Standard Motor Products (SMP) one from Rock Auto for only $32 and it has worked fine for me so far.
If you really want to cheap out, I have a (known working) used one which I can send you if you pay for shipping
If the new VVT solenoid doesn’t work.
4) Replace the Exhaust Camshaft Sensor (not the solenoid). I do not know of how exactly you would test this sensor other than by trial and error (maybe someone smarter than me can chime in), so I would personally just replace it. It’s also relatively cheap. Roughly $16-30 online. I replaced my old factory sensor with a Dorman on my engine and it works well so far. I also have a used (known working) one of these if you want it as well.
If you still have the issue, then it may be something more mechanical, both of which would require removal of the valve cover and neither would be fun to do.
5) timing chain jumped a tooth - would require a new chain, which would require removing the front timing cover, which would require removal of the oil pan. Several videos online. This is very labor intensive with the engine still in the vehicle, but still doable.
6) cam phaser is sticking/stuck/not moving to the proper position that the PCM is commanding - would require removal of the exhaust cam phaser to either replace it or bench test it with compressed air (couple videos online on how to do this). To do this, you will either need a specialty tool, or get really creative with plastic zip ties/etc. to keep tension on the timing chain with the cam phaser removed. If the chain becomes loose or you lose too much tension on the timing chain, it will become out of time on the engine crankshaft sprocket, then you will need to remove the front timing cover, just like you would if you were replacing the timing chain.
7) only other thing I could possibly see causing this would be low oil flow (clogged filter, extremely thick/dirty, blocked oil passages, etc.) but if you have this problem, I would at least think you would get the Oil Pressure light, so I’m guessing is not a factor in your case.
Keep us informed; let me know through PM if you need the two sensors.
1) Inspect wiring connectors leading to the Exhaust Camshaft Sensor and the Camshaft VVT Solenoid. Look for the obvious; disconnections, frayed wires, corrosion, etc.
2) Remove/Inspect the Camshaft VVT Solenoid - look at the small metal screens on the solenoid and check to see a) if they’re actually still there as sometimes they can break loose and get into the engine b) check to see if there is any debris blocking the small metal screens which would restrict oil flow. Removing this solenoid requires only a 10mm socket.
If there is no metal screen on the solenoid, then it’s possible it is lodged somewhere in the engine, either restricting oil flow and messing up the VVT system or is jammed up into the cam phaser (either way, not good). If there is simply debris, clean the solenoid, reinstall and try again.
If all checks out, and/or nothing has worked so far.
3) Replace the Camshaft VVT Solenoid - Yes you could argue this is simply throwing parts at the problem, but this part is relatively cheap. I got a Standard Motor Products (SMP) one from Rock Auto for only $32 and it has worked fine for me so far.
If you really want to cheap out, I have a (known working) used one which I can send you if you pay for shipping
If the new VVT solenoid doesn’t work.
4) Replace the Exhaust Camshaft Sensor (not the solenoid). I do not know of how exactly you would test this sensor other than by trial and error (maybe someone smarter than me can chime in), so I would personally just replace it. It’s also relatively cheap. Roughly $16-30 online. I replaced my old factory sensor with a Dorman on my engine and it works well so far. I also have a used (known working) one of these if you want it as well.
If you still have the issue, then it may be something more mechanical, both of which would require removal of the valve cover and neither would be fun to do.
5) timing chain jumped a tooth - would require a new chain, which would require removing the front timing cover, which would require removal of the oil pan. Several videos online. This is very labor intensive with the engine still in the vehicle, but still doable.
6) cam phaser is sticking/stuck/not moving to the proper position that the PCM is commanding - would require removal of the exhaust cam phaser to either replace it or bench test it with compressed air (couple videos online on how to do this). To do this, you will either need a specialty tool, or get really creative with plastic zip ties/etc. to keep tension on the timing chain with the cam phaser removed. If the chain becomes loose or you lose too much tension on the timing chain, it will become out of time on the engine crankshaft sprocket, then you will need to remove the front timing cover, just like you would if you were replacing the timing chain.
7) only other thing I could possibly see causing this would be low oil flow (clogged filter, extremely thick/dirty, blocked oil passages, etc.) but if you have this problem, I would at least think you would get the Oil Pressure light, so I’m guessing is not a factor in your case.
Keep us informed; let me know through PM if you need the two sensors.
