Never have used a forum so I am new to this, so here is my problem. I replaced the brakes on my 06 H3, front and back, everything was going good until I got to the right front where the caliper was rusted and one of the pistons was froze and wouldn't budge. So naturally I replaced both calipers and bled the brakes, RR, LR, RF, LF with a vacuum type tool I got from Harbor Freight which worked good. Now the brake pedal is spongy and I have no brakes, I re bled the lines and again nothing, I turned the ignition on without starting the H3, did the back and then the front and still have a spongy pedal. I had a friend come and pump the pedal while I manually bled the lines. The pedal got stiff on the right side but went spongy, had a good stream of fluid coming out before I moved to the left rear. As he pumped the pedal I noticed the was no movement on either the air or the fluid in the drain hose. We then pumped the pedal and I removed the bleeder plug and no fluid came out, I tightened the bleeder plug and did it again and no fluid still. I went to where the brake lines come into the master cylinder and pumped the brakes and I loosened the line to the left rear and no fluid came out. So is the that particular port plugged or is the master cylinder bad, if plugged can I blow it out with minimal air pressure? Plus is there a such a thing as a rebuild kit for the master cylinder, if not where can I get one that is less than 700 bucks.

 

On the surface it seems you have air in the line. There are some good you tube videos covering this. Also if you use the search feature on this site you will find some clues on what could have gone wrong.

 

You don't pump the brakes. Turn the key on, but don't start it. Begin with the right rear. Have someone HOLD down the brake PEDAL (DON'T pump). Open the bleeder. The pump in the abs/TCS module should continue to pump fluid. Bleed until there is no air. Move to the left rear.
Then move on to the fronts. When I did mine, the pump did not stay running when bleeding the fronts, so you will need to press the brake to run the pump until it stops, each time you bleed. Close the bleeder between bleeds, just like normal brakes (except no pumping). Do not pump the brakes. Let the pump do the work.
Don't let the fluid get too low on the reservoir. Also, watch your battery level.

There is a procedure out there on the net that I encourage you to seek out and read. There is a procedure listed that has you pump the brakes, but that I believe is for replacing the master cylinder, and NOT for bleeding calipers.

Good luck. I found it wasn't any more difficult, just different.