So I was fortunate enough (if you could say that) to be driving by a an old man putting a for sale sign in front of his 2006 hummer H3. We settled for $6000. It has 83k miles on it. Clean title, with extensive maintenance records (shown on carfax) and has never seen winter. Undercarriage is spotless. He unfortunately was having health issues (83 yrs old) and just no longer had time for all his “toys” (his home was well into the million dollar range). So I don’t think money was an issue for him.

However it did have a check engine light on and is throwing a few codes. He was open about it and I ran a scanner before buying it. I’m rather handy and would like to see if I can fix any of this myself.P0446 EVAP Vent Solenoid Valve Control System

C0186 Lateral Accelerometer Circuit Malfunction

C0196 Yaw Rate Circuit Malfunction

C0240 EBCM Malfunction

He has receipts from last year that show he replaced the vent solenoid ($300 part and $200 in labor, crazy). Along with $1300 for a new radiator.

Aside from the Evap code others seem to be from the ABS and from what I saw on this site could be related to bad drainage in the sunroof ultimately flooding the sensor under the front seat.

Was just wondering if any one had any insight or tips. I have a trusted mechanic but he’s a master mechanic with Ford. He’s coming over this week and I’d like to be able to pass anything I can’t do onto him but share some knowledge.

Or if someone could possibly point me to a few good videos on what to fix. It’s up on it fluids changes, though I’ve changed the oil just in case, and I’m going to replace the spark plugs next week.

Thanks,
Tony

 

 

First do the fix for clogged sunroof drains. Finally, a fix for clogged sunroof drain tubes If the passenger floor got wet, so did the BCM which will need an inspection for corrosion and harness connection to evaluate for possible replacement.

Then replace the OEM Battery Terminal Connectors (if not done already) with a quality aftermarket set like Stingers or your favorite brand.

 

So I stripped the entire interior. Made sure all four drain plugs were unclogged (they already were but I made the openings bigger) but my interior carpet was soaked already. I noticed there is a drip from the front passenger side where the windshield meets the headliner. I don’t see any issues with the track along the roof and the sunroof drain plugs worked perfectly.

I’m thinking it might be the factory glue on the windshield after 17 years failing but I can seem to find a single post on this site where that has even been the case. I uploaded pictures below of where the leak is coming from. If I spray water on just the windshield area where it meets the roof I get water in the vehicle.

 

When the sunroof drains are clogged, the water overflows the sunroof tray (collects water and attached to the drains at each of the four corners) the water runs on top of the headliner and down the A Pillar. Not the windshield leaking. Do what the leak fixers do, run water on the top corner of the windshield and look for leaks inside while doing so.

 

from the above picture it looks like the seam sealer has failed letting water in.

 

I feel like this is a dumb question but the seam sealer is the glue connecting the windshield, right?

 

so when I run water on the sun roof (and even with the sun roof open putting water directly down the holes) it drains out the bottom just fine. Even when I had all four tubes out I tested them one by one and they drained fine into a bucket.

When I put water over the one spot in the corner of my car (the pictures above) right where the windshield and roof corner meet I get water coming in my A pillar. I also checked the rivet screws holding the roof molding down and they seem to all be in good shape with their rubber gaskets intact. If it’s not the windshield I’m pretty close to just pulling the headliner down.

 

seam sealer is used to keep water from going in between welded body panels it literally does what the name says. it is not used to glue in the windshield. that would be either butyl or urethane. even though seam sealer may also consist of urethane. but it stays flexable as opposed to seam sealer which can tend to be much firmer in consistency when dried.

but seam sealer might be on the panel seams underneath where the windshield adhesive has been applied.

 

Well now you at least know where the leak is. Next up, diagnose and repair.

If glue/seam sealer has failed. Dig it out, clean, dry and re-apply.