Your numbers don't add up, recommend you test your ect sensor, I posted the chart above.
GM gauge with numbers:

 

 

I do not care what your gauge table says, I am pointing the well understood fact that whatever the H3 dash Temp gauge points to is like an idiot light with a needle. There is nobody going to know what the actual temp is until you read it through a scanner, the Temp gauge is not an accurate assessment and not intended to be. I have shown people this on multiple H3s and H3 Alphas and seen it for myself between the different H3s I have owned. A scanner reads the ohms and reports the conversion to actual temp, the Temp gauge needle via the ohms half azzed gets you to an idea because it is not calibrated for chit.

There is a series of TSBs back for 2006-7 that clearly tell the dealer techs this when soccer moms were freaking out because they thought 3/4 on the Temp gauge meant their new vehicle was hot. The suggested action to techs was, read it on a scanner and send them on their way. If the customer persisted, warranty a Temp gauge change swap (not the sensor) so the needle would point somewhere else and send them on there way. No coolant system repairs were called for.

 

Gauge matches your scanner! I had an issue many years ago when my gauge would go between 1/2 & 3/4, scanner showed 220°, result: ect sensor inaccurate & replaced. Just checked today, while driving, had my scanner connected, and watched my gauge. Pointer touched below the 1/2 bar @ 200° on the scanner, yet the highest temp I got was 203°, and the gauge pointer was inside the 1/2 bar. I will update, the temp when the gauge pointer exits the 1/2 bar, on a hot day. Test/check/inspect/repair, and don't drive over 220°!

 

Last time... your Gauge could point to 1/2 an scanner temp could be 200F, the next guy's H3 Gauge could point to 3/4 and scanner temp is 200F, the next gut's H3 could point anywhere in between and scanner temp could be 200F. The scanner temp is accurate, the Gauge is NOT! The Gauges they put in these things were not intended to be precise, they to point to a range, when the needle gets to red, it is freeking HOT. That's basically all they were intended for as H3s and GMs of the same vintage have 3 layers of overheat protection so that Bozos that never look at the dash will be alerted when coolant is above normal ranges regardless. A truly accurate calibrated Temp Gauge costs more $ than the idiot light with a needle GM put into these things.

After you scan and compare Gauge readings on 6-10 H3s, come back with your data. What your truck does is different than what the next guy's shows on the Temp Gauge. Been there, done that.

Your point is well taken and a good one. If an owner thinks the Gauge is reading at a concerning level, scan it to see what the actual temp is and address as necessary.