2006 Hummer H3 Adventure Build
#1
2006 Hummer H3 Adventure Build
Hello everyone,
I recently purchased a 2006 Hummer H3 Adventure with a 3.7L I5 swap (from a 2008 Colorado). To start out, I am trying to resolve most of the little issues the vehicle has (doesn't start on first ignition turn but starts on second turn, overly worn ignition cylinder, power mirrors, bad front axle bushing, leaking front CV joint, malfunctioning head unit, a tune up, and also a bunch of minor cosmetic concerns).
My purpose for this vehicle will be having fun overlanding with friends. I plan to construct a roof-top tent eventually as well as have some creative ideas for the rear hatch. I am really excited to make progress on it!
My eventual goal is to make a few minor performance/efficiency upgrades and upsizing to 35's before having the PCM tuned. These will likely include intake, exhaust, tires, weight (removing full-size spare), e-fan swap, a tune-up, and possibly a turbo (far, far down the road).
The chassis has about 320k on it with about 100k on the 3.7L I5.
Here is a photo I took on my way home with it:
I am slowly adding some content to one of my youtube channels, too. Those can be viewed here, if interested.
I'll have some slow but steady updates, I imagine.
Warmly,
Dylan
I recently purchased a 2006 Hummer H3 Adventure with a 3.7L I5 swap (from a 2008 Colorado). To start out, I am trying to resolve most of the little issues the vehicle has (doesn't start on first ignition turn but starts on second turn, overly worn ignition cylinder, power mirrors, bad front axle bushing, leaking front CV joint, malfunctioning head unit, a tune up, and also a bunch of minor cosmetic concerns).
My purpose for this vehicle will be having fun overlanding with friends. I plan to construct a roof-top tent eventually as well as have some creative ideas for the rear hatch. I am really excited to make progress on it!
My eventual goal is to make a few minor performance/efficiency upgrades and upsizing to 35's before having the PCM tuned. These will likely include intake, exhaust, tires, weight (removing full-size spare), e-fan swap, a tune-up, and possibly a turbo (far, far down the road).
The chassis has about 320k on it with about 100k on the 3.7L I5.
Here is a photo I took on my way home with it:
I am slowly adding some content to one of my youtube channels, too. Those can be viewed here, if interested.
I'll have some slow but steady updates, I imagine.
Warmly,
Dylan
Last edited by Doc Olds; 04-07-2021 at 09:17 AM.
#2
You blew it when you linked to your tube channel so I removed it and approved your thread. Somebody moderated your thread to not approved prior to my edit.
Are you aware that H3s are FT 4WD so when you remove the full sized spare, you cannot drive with a different size than the other 4 on the ground?
Good luck.
Are you aware that H3s are FT 4WD so when you remove the full sized spare, you cannot drive with a different size than the other 4 on the ground?
Good luck.
#3
Hey Doc, thanks for the edit and your comment! I was wondering why my thread wasn't showing up.
I do recognize they are FT 4WD and don't plan to have a spare at all (full-size or not). I am hoping to never blow a tire, which will be the only scenario in which I would need a spare. I carry a patch kit, string plugs, rubber cement, a couple jacks, a ratchet strap, water, tire spoons, and an air compressor, so I have all the tools I need to dismount and remount (if needed) or just a quick plug.
I do recognize they are FT 4WD and don't plan to have a spare at all (full-size or not). I am hoping to never blow a tire, which will be the only scenario in which I would need a spare. I carry a patch kit, string plugs, rubber cement, a couple jacks, a ratchet strap, water, tire spoons, and an air compressor, so I have all the tools I need to dismount and remount (if needed) or just a quick plug.
#4
Update:
I got my ScanGuage II in the mail yesterday and got it all set-up. I am excited to have it because my speedometer is about -5% off. Having accurate speed readings and fuel economy information will be a luxury!
Also, I settled all the wiring issues I was having (no power mirrors and malfunctioning passenger door switch). I got the driver's side power mirror to work using the orange-to-orange wiring jump (from the window switch to the power mirror switch). My passenger mirror still did not function, so I disconnected the passenger power mirror and wired it to an old 12V battery I had to ensure the power mirror motor worked (it did work). With the issue now being the connection from the mirror switch to the mirror, I started tracing wires. I found the door jamb connector was badly corroded with one prong broke off completely. There was the issue.... I did a dirty and hardwired everything with either butt splices or solder and the passenger door functions (including mirror) work properly now! I am super satisfied being able to use the functions as they are designed.
Here are some photos:
Broken prong and several heavily corroded and weak prongs (likely cause of the passenger mirror and door switch issues).
Using butt splices and re-using old housing to maintain weather tightness.
Getting ready to connect splices and feed them through the sealed housing.
Fully wired door jamb utilizing old housing (looks completely original from the outside).
I got my ScanGuage II in the mail yesterday and got it all set-up. I am excited to have it because my speedometer is about -5% off. Having accurate speed readings and fuel economy information will be a luxury!
Also, I settled all the wiring issues I was having (no power mirrors and malfunctioning passenger door switch). I got the driver's side power mirror to work using the orange-to-orange wiring jump (from the window switch to the power mirror switch). My passenger mirror still did not function, so I disconnected the passenger power mirror and wired it to an old 12V battery I had to ensure the power mirror motor worked (it did work). With the issue now being the connection from the mirror switch to the mirror, I started tracing wires. I found the door jamb connector was badly corroded with one prong broke off completely. There was the issue.... I did a dirty and hardwired everything with either butt splices or solder and the passenger door functions (including mirror) work properly now! I am super satisfied being able to use the functions as they are designed.
Here are some photos:
Broken prong and several heavily corroded and weak prongs (likely cause of the passenger mirror and door switch issues).
Using butt splices and re-using old housing to maintain weather tightness.
Getting ready to connect splices and feed them through the sealed housing.
Fully wired door jamb utilizing old housing (looks completely original from the outside).
#5
From: https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/h...roblems-31087/
Thank you so much, Cliffster, for providing this super helpful information! Totally helped me solve my power window problem.
Here's the simple fix for hummer mirrors that quit. lift out the switch module with all the switches on driver door. It juust picks up and out.skin back the orange wire feeding the mirrors..See if you have battery voltage. If not its failed in the bc module. NO BIG DEAL. The other orange wire three inches away feeds the door locks. I ran a jumper from the door lock orange to feed dc to the mirrors. works perfectly. For safetys I soldered in a 3 amp spade fuse on the jumper. works perfectly. 10 minutes.The hot circuit failed in the body control module. if you have hazards and courteysy lights it's not the fuse. it wont damage or back feed cause its open in the bcm.
#7
Update:
I got my ScanGuage II in the mail yesterday and got it all set-up. I am excited to have it because my speedometer is about -5% off. Having accurate speed readings and fuel economy information will be a luxury!
Also, I settled all the wiring issues I was having (no power mirrors and malfunctioning passenger door switch). I got the driver's side power mirror to work using the orange-to-orange wiring jump (from the window switch to the power mirror switch). My passenger mirror still did not function, so I disconnected the passenger power mirror and wired it to an old 12V battery I had to ensure the power mirror motor worked (it did work). With the issue now being the connection from the mirror switch to the mirror, I started tracing wires. I found the door jamb connector was badly corroded with one prong broke off completely. There was the issue.... I did a dirty and hardwired everything with either butt splices or solder and the passenger door functions (including mirror) work properly now! I am super satisfied being able to use the functions as they are designed.
Here are some photos:
Broken prong and several heavily corroded and weak prongs (likely cause of the passenger mirror and door switch issues).
Using butt splices and re-using old housing to maintain weather tightness.
Getting ready to connect splices and feed them through the sealed housing.
Fully wired door jamb utilizing old housing (looks completely original from the outside).
I got my ScanGuage II in the mail yesterday and got it all set-up. I am excited to have it because my speedometer is about -5% off. Having accurate speed readings and fuel economy information will be a luxury!
Also, I settled all the wiring issues I was having (no power mirrors and malfunctioning passenger door switch). I got the driver's side power mirror to work using the orange-to-orange wiring jump (from the window switch to the power mirror switch). My passenger mirror still did not function, so I disconnected the passenger power mirror and wired it to an old 12V battery I had to ensure the power mirror motor worked (it did work). With the issue now being the connection from the mirror switch to the mirror, I started tracing wires. I found the door jamb connector was badly corroded with one prong broke off completely. There was the issue.... I did a dirty and hardwired everything with either butt splices or solder and the passenger door functions (including mirror) work properly now! I am super satisfied being able to use the functions as they are designed.
Here are some photos:
Broken prong and several heavily corroded and weak prongs (likely cause of the passenger mirror and door switch issues).
Using butt splices and re-using old housing to maintain weather tightness.
Getting ready to connect splices and feed them through the sealed housing.
Fully wired door jamb utilizing old housing (looks completely original from the outside).
12-10 AWG Butt Splices on 22-18 AWG wire, without waterproof shrink wrap?
Btw, I would just replace the broken pin.
#8
#10
I purchased a used kennel off FB marketplace for the rear of my H3. The dimensions of the kennels footprint are nearly identical to the cargo space. My issue was not being able to have the rear seats "clicked in" while the kennel was back there. I did a bit of customizing to the kennel and now the seats aren't impacted at all and the dogs have every last bit of the cargo space available. I'm happy with the improved safety the kennel offers and also the comfort for my dogs.