OOOOHHHH I never thought about the factory light bar! Good call!

 

https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/h...-34873/page42/

Thats my rig. The middle one was wired to the mickey mouse ears light bar (I swapped it for a 52" LED), and then i found and added 2 others (with relays) for future light options.

 

See pic. This is the factory switch for the factory Bosch fog lights on the brushguard.

 

After replacing the blend actuator, I don't think the switch is factory. I found a harness that was poorly taped up under the dash. I'll get it figured out.

Actuator was a MF by the way........

Tim

 

They were also installed on trucks that had the front aux lights..... Mine has that exact switch too. On mine they are accessory controlled though - they lights will not come on unless the ignition is on. I'd have to look but I do believe these do get their power from under the hood and it should be easy enough to tie it into a switch power source. As far as I know these were "factory" options but none were actually installed at the factory, all of the front and roof rack accessory lights are "dealer" installed which might explain why some are wired slightly different than others. That also would explain why I've seen the console with the switch in different places... They are definitely a "factory" option but like I said, a dealer installed factory option. You can see most all of the factory "dealer" (and other) options here... http://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/hummer/hm2-n/21/

Here are a couple on eBay that show the switch, also in two very different places too. But they are the exact same switch and also identical to the one in mine.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/282670595125

https://www.ebay.com/itm/282673233978

 

Good info thanks!

Tim

 

Update on this. YES there is. I took care of this on mine yesterday. The wiring for this along with two relays strapped together is stuffed up under the dash. The main power comes from the under hood fuse box which is a thicker red wire. That along with a couple of other wires go through the firewall to under the dash above the brake pedal. Not easy to cut the tape and fish things out but once you do you will see that the thicker red wire goes to where it connects and splits into two blue wires. One of the blue wires then goes on and splits at the pair of relays. The other slightly thinner blue wire goes to the switch at the overhead console.

Cut the thinner blue wire that goes to the switch tightly to where it branches from the wire and tape up the exposed remainder. Now the switch no longer has constant power but you now need ignition controlled power for the switch to trigger the relays. On the lower left side is a black cover that is on top of a factory connection block with a couple of relays and several unused connection points. The top left pin is switched ignition. Crimp a small female spade terminal on the think blue wire you cut and push it onto that terminal.

This is really hard to explain and the best way is to get under the dash and examine the wiring and just locate it. You do need to have some knowledge of wiring, relays, etc though. That relay block under the black cover to the left of the brake pedal has several unused connection points for various optional functions. One is a trailer brake connection, a couple are upfitter connection points (upfitters add modifications to vehicles like snow plows, etc). The GM Upfitter docs do not specifically address quite as much on the Hummers as they do the pickups though. However much if the electrical system basics are the same but always use a meter and verify anything.

This is a few pages from the pickups on the mid BEC which is what that relay block is called. These are identical the the ones on our H2's. Where I indicated the top left terminal of the block that is the SEO connector (C8), pin D as indicated in this document. If you look around online you can find the actual full connector plugs that plug in to these unused spots. The trailer one is the easiest to find and that one is generally prewired with ready to use short lengths of wire. This block is very handy for things like this, aftermarket security and remote starts, additional power feeds for all sorts of things. As always - if you are connection something that has a high power draw its always best to use the tapped power to trigger a relay that gets its main power from a direct battery connection. There are accessory terminals on the underhood fuse block specifically for this as well.

I'm big on utilizing factory provisions rather than hacking into wires.