can you just notch off the piece of plastic on the right of the connector so that you can rotate the motor into the mounting holes?

 

I probably could but before I did that I would use the 7 blade fan and motor. If you look at the 7/9 shroud it’s deeper for the 9 blade side and it has more support. I don’t know if I need all that but that’s what the 08/09 H2’s have or at least some of them. I will call LKQ and see if I can go to their yard here and pick up another one and I can make sure it’s not broken and I will use the fans I have because they are low mileage.

See how the right side is deeper?

 

I just received a 429.00 credit for the Sonnax smart drum that had the bad check valve. Seller stated that he was going to protest the return but I guess he had a change of heart after reviewing the item, pics and detailed description of what The issue was.

 

On LKQ they would have to find out what junkyard has the specific vehicle you are looking for. They only allow the public in some of their yards - https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/locations/

 

I don’t think they let you in the yard here. LKQ guy here said that he would charge me 100 + tax because part is not pulled out and if it’s wrong or broken he would return my money. I think I might go that route and then get a refund from LKQ for my original purchase and I’m ok with that because this assembly has 127k miles on it and the part that I purchased had 53k?

 

LKQ gave me a credit for my fan assembly and they transferred it to my local LKQ so tomorrow I will go get my stuff in person and I will be able to inspect it and if it’s good I will bring it home. That gives me a total of 5 fan assemblies with 2 unusable shrouds all for 112.00. I will have enough stuff to replace fans for the rest of my life. I like the oem assembly because I can replace parts.

 

Just had a big rain here and I was backing out of the driveway and water started running out of my some lights and switches. I opened up the sunroof and the weep holes are clear and clean but I did have some tree/ seed material in the tracks but not near the drains. I had the roof open and I pushed the button one time and it closed but stopped about 3/4” short. Am I doing something wrong? It seems like I can’t get it to stop in the sealed/ closed position. I will clean the tracks out and find the proper grease but I don’t think that’s going to help it close completely.

 

you tap it again to fully close. it has 3 positions fully closed, cracked, and fully open. my wife constantly leaves it cracked open like that.
try to clean the sunroof gasket and opening as best as possible. I lubed the tracks with white lithium spray grease
there are also drains in the back of the sunroof they drain around the B or C pillars.
the antennas on the roof can also Leake and so do all the lights up there.

 

I have white lithium spray grease and I was under the impression that if it’s fully open that one long push would stop at fully closed. I guess not but it still doesn’t seem right because the back will start coming up and one time I heard a rattle and I opened up the cover and the front of the sunroof was bouncing up and down. Maybe my detailed pushed the button when he was washing it Friday. I will still clean and lube it. I really don’t like a sunroof and It seems like everything I get has one. I’d rather have 2 a/c’s

 

They are another thing notorious for eventually failing..... On mine the tilt function works fine and it slides all the way open fine but it will not close unless I use my other hand to assist it sliding back closed.

I've always avoided grease in places like that as grease gets dirt and whatnot stuck in it and I've seen white lithium grease on more than one occasion after being exposed for a couple of years acts more like sticky peanut butter than a lubricant....

There is some high dollar stuff that is silicone based, thickened slightly with lithium and ptfe that the factory applies. Rheosil 500f

I have not tried to find any though. Eventually I probably should.