Hummer H2 For those who like a little more gleam to their Hummer, the H2 offers a similar rugged look as the H1, but as a lower cost, and with more added features, making it almost a massive luxury SUV.

Hummer H2 Duramax Conversion Opinions Please:

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  #11  
Old 10-17-2017, 02:08 PM
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I can't say this for sure, but in literature that read about the H2's development, the original plan was to put a duramax in it but between added cost and that it didn't fit easy or at all with the final design is why they didn't go with it. engine wise I don't know how different a LBZ is than a LQ4, but the allison trans is YUGE and may have required floor work or didn't fit with a transfercase in the shorter H2 wheel base. Think about it, an H2 is like a regular cab short bed wheel base or less. Do you ever see a regular cab short bed 2500HD? Nope you only see reg cab LONG bed.
 
  #12  
Old 10-17-2017, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by SShockwave
but the allison trans is YUGE and may have required floor work or didn't fit with a transfercase in the shorter H2 wheel base. Think about it, an H2 is like a regular cab short bed wheel base or less. Do you ever see a regular cab short bed 2500HD? Nope you only see reg cab LONG bed.
Allison fits fine and u still have 4ft of driveshaft if u wanted to shorten your custom build even more.
 
  #13  
Old 12-20-2021, 11:43 AM
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Default H2 duramax

Originally Posted by bknapp
I think we all agree the H2 with a Duramax / Allison is how they the H2 was intended to be driven. As many of us H2 owners do, I have always been dreaming of the day I could replace my H2 aging drivetrain with the Duramax / Allision Combo. Time was right, stars aligned and I hired an experienced consultant to guide me through the best kept secrets for a success. 6 months later success! A ton of new knowledge, most notably an “expert consultants” is only as good as the choices they made during their conversions and some “Old Methods” need better solutions. One area was that my guy, as well as some of the other well-known professional builders, claim that you must forego the H2’s sophisticated 4W traction control and switch over to the donor trucks 2W ABS, without traction control. More money and more experts proved this not to be true. The H2 can be built to retain this capability. Hummer H2 Powertrain description. I’ve been an H2 owner for the past 10 years and consider myself quit knowledgeable on the brand. I believe I have created the best most OEM conversion to date. Factory Cold-Air box, factory upper radiator support, Quick body removal design, and a few other improvements currently in final development.

My original plan was to buy an LBZ donor 2500HD with fewer than 200k miles and mate it with my high mileage 2004 SUV. Build plans changed when I discovered my donor 2500 had a new GM replacement engine and turbo combo, costing $17K done under warranty at the dealer and had only 44K miles, rather than the 140+ I was expecting. With this knowledge, I decided to strip the entire frame and do a show quality chassis build to match the LBZ. Freshly powder coated frame, all new bushings, bearings, brakes, hubs, shocks, springs, steering box, etc. replaced with OEM or better where better existed.

I’m seeking opinions on a potential new business venture. I have a lot more money tied up into this build than is necessary for my personal needs. So, the idea occurred to me to sell these types of chassis to existing H2 owners. The choices to date for Conversion Dreamers or new H2 owners are:
1. Down payment, $30-40K conversion cost, your existing worn out chassis, 6 month+ waiting list for a donor truck all without knowing exactly what you are paying for.
2. Buy a previous Professional build, used from owners who know very little about what they have or don’t have. What works or doesn’t work.
3. Buy a Non-Professional build from someone who didn’t know what they were doing. Hacked frame, Modified hood, no-traction control or unfinished because they couldn’t figure out the process to get it all working as it should.

Opinions please:
Is there a market for this? Is it worth a premium?
You send us your H2 with its tired, worn H2 Chassis in exchange for a, 7 days or less turnaround (extra if customer wants performance upgrades). Essentially, a 0 mile, show quality chassis that will last as long as your Diesel Engine / Transmission combo. Drives like it did from the showroom floor. No unknowns. Support after the sale.

Do you have any information on getting the NP 263hd transfer case to work?
 
  #14  
Old 08-08-2022, 09:24 AM
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Default Duromax

How would all this work in a 2008 H2?
 
  #15  
Old 10-12-2022, 11:12 PM
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Done a bunch of reading and watching H2 DMax conversion videos. Took a lot of notes. If I could afford a DMax/Allison/4WD T-case, AND talk my wife into it I would do it yesterday.
used diesels are still a premium. Lift the body off and roll the chassis out (don’t have to drop the fuel tank this way to replace hoses and fuel pump). New radiator, modification to rad support, hood latch, motor mounts and a second battery. If going with a 4WD T-case instead of the AWD, YOU WILL NEED TO DISABLE T/C when in 2WD if playing. If you get in the dirt or snow and start spinning the tires without disabling T/C YOU BURN UP YOUR REAR BRAKES! Remember that in 2WD, the fronts will not speed up to stay at the same speed as the rears and T/C WILL APPLY the rear brakes for you! I would install a switch to TURN OFF T/C (H2’s don’t have one, T/C is always on. The ‘2’ button only allows a little more slippage between F/R axles. You will need a new fuel fill and vent hose. Getting a donor engine/trans from a compatible year model is necessary due to changes in the computer modules in the H2. Just a quick overview.
 
  #16  
Old 10-13-2022, 11:56 AM
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you also need to lift the body to clear the engine, transmission and transfercase. i dont recall if it is 2 inches or 3
 
  #17  
Old 10-13-2022, 08:37 PM
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What is the best kit for the money?
What engine combo gets the best MPGs?
What engine combo has the most HP stock?
Which gets the most overall HP modified?
Is there an easiest to convert?
Whats the easiest combo to locate?
Which is the preferred combo?
I'm sure there's more, but I can't think of any. Wait, What are the prices if we did it ourselves? Minus engine, trans, and other materials from the doner vehicles. Thanks in advance. Oh, I have an 2008 H2. Another thing, what will not be able to work with the conversion, like ABS, traction control, etc. I know it won't be full time 4x4 anymore.
Best company to get the kit from?
Ok, enough, I think.
 
  #18  
Old 05-12-2023, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by bknapp
I think we all agree the H2 with a Duramax / Allison is how they the H2 was intended to be driven. As many of us H2 owners do, I have always been dreaming of the day I could replace my H2 aging drivetrain with the Duramax / Allision Combo. Time was right, stars aligned and I hired an experienced consultant to guide me through the best kept secrets for a success. 6 months later success! A ton of new knowledge, most notably an “expert consultants” is only as good as the choices they made during their conversions and some “Old Methods” need better solutions. One area was that my guy, as well as some of the other well-known professional builders, claim that you must forego the H2’s sophisticated 4W traction control and switch over to the donor trucks 2W ABS, without traction control. More money and more experts proved this not to be true. The H2 can be built to retain this capability. Hummer H2 Powertrain description. I’ve been an H2 owner for the past 10 years and consider myself quit knowledgeable on the brand. I believe I have created the best most OEM conversion to date. Factory Cold-Air box, factory upper radiator support, Quick body removal design, and a few other improvements currently in final development.

My original plan was to buy an LBZ donor 2500HD with fewer than 200k miles and mate it with my high mileage 2004 SUV. Build plans changed when I discovered my donor 2500 had a new GM replacement engine and turbo combo, costing $17K done under warranty at the dealer and had only 44K miles, rather than the 140+ I was expecting. With this knowledge, I decided to strip the entire frame and do a show quality chassis build to match the LBZ. Freshly powder coated frame, all new bushings, bearings, brakes, hubs, shocks, springs, steering box, etc. replaced with OEM or better where better existed.

I’m seeking opinions on a potential new business venture. I have a lot more money tied up into this build than is necessary for my personal needs. So, the idea occurred to me to sell these types of chassis to existing H2 owners. The choices to date for Conversion Dreamers or new H2 owners are:
1. Down payment, $30-40K conversion cost, your existing worn out chassis, 6 month+ waiting list for a donor truck all without knowing exactly what you are paying for.
2. Buy a previous Professional build, used from owners who know very little about what they have or don’t have. What works or doesn’t work.
3. Buy a Non-Professional build from someone who didn’t know what they were doing. Hacked frame, Modified hood, no-traction control or unfinished because they couldn’t figure out the process to get it all working as it should.

Opinions please:
Is there a market for this? Is it worth a premium?
You send us your H2 with its tired, worn H2 Chassis in exchange for a, 7 days or less turnaround (extra if customer wants performance upgrades). Essentially, a 0 mile, show quality chassis that will last as long as your Diesel Engine / Transmission combo. Drives like it did from the showroom floor. No unknowns. Support after the sale.

I have a personal market for this. On my 3rd Hummer but first H2. I love my H2. I bought it used and it was limping. Engine blown within 45 days and transmission with it. I knew it was rough at purchase but I had to have the platform. I’m 26,500 into it as a gasser just to get it road worthy and ready to bring me home safe. So far every new add on has come with a breakdown. It was just abused. I want the power and torque of the diesel. My 6.0 was not up to the task of sticky clay and the traction control bound the tires. 4L was my only option. Then plastic coolant lines broke. Now twice that has been the case. GM created my only want for a truck, now I want to create my dream of a truck. I’ve done my front end in the driveway, the engine is another 6.0 from a Silverado, Transmission is a fresh and tight, strong rebuild of the original but with a better ring with more contact and a shift kit added. Now the heart and soul of this power train. Which all of this is cool except I could have put the 15,000 on top of purchase towards the duramax, but I’ve found no one who wants to do it without chopping my baby up. Not in that matket

RAILROAD BUTTES SD. The best agate (Fairfield) area I’ve found, as well as beautiful agatized and petrified wood, ravines of water run off with million year old trees exposed. The reason I need my Hummer. I enjoy the wilderness, and I can’t always be in a spot where all 4 wheels are holding me true. The grades get steep and the angles precarious. This white dirt becomes the slickest, yet stickiest substance I’ve found. 7,500 lbs sinks quick if you aren’t ready.

First adventure before front end was replaced but after engine, transmission, radiator, front hub replacements.

Just takin pics

Where my free time calls home. Where we are going, we don’t need roads. Gods Country. I leave the land disrupted, but I also need a truck that the land doesn’t disrupt.
 
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