The wood was a template for drilling the needed holes in the plastic, it was removed

My plan was to still be able to go back to the OEM style lights if needed, worst case would be to bond a round piece of plastic in the bottom of the mounting holes and replicate the needed holes to mount the OEM style lights.

Sorry for the confusion,

Neal

 

Thanks Neal,

MixManSC pointed out the error of my way. Stupid me, I wondered why the new lamp came right to the end of the enclosure. It still looked good but had one hell of an opening around it. Anyway, I went back, disassembled my donut lamp and used the wood templates to correctly drill the hole.

Mounted the new light using a dab of epoxy just to make sure they don't work they way loose and placed a weather strip around the lenses. Looks great. I temporally installed a set of LED bulbs (low current draw) to be used as DRL's for now. I would like to relocate the DRL's some where else and in the future use the new reflectors for real fog lamps, or just pull the fuse and unplug the sockets. I hooked them up to a battery, checked alignment and they throw a perfect pattern. They look so much better then the old ones. Good mod buddy and I saved a fortune with just a little work!

Dan

 

Glad you got it sorted out, I used O-rings to take up the slack in the mounting clips.

I'm using LED's in mine also,

Neal

 

I went ahead and did the diode mod for the drl's to be on with the lights. Does anyone know if the DRL's are fused before or after the relay? If its before the we could just pull the fuse, leave the diode mod in place and use high performance H10 replacements for standard headlamp bulbs. That would allow you to be able to run them as fog light when the main lights are on. I need to get my hands on the schematic for this circuit. Otherwise a direct feed with switch will be required for a dedicated fog lamp. I really don't want really bright DRL's on all the time, after all they just help the cops aim their radar guns at you from long distances, lol

 

The diode mod is on my list once the engine is back in,

Neal

 

Attached.... Fused before the relay.

 

Cool, Thanks MixManSC,

Now that I have the schematic I can see how the DRL diode mod was done. So, based on the led (or bulb) placed in the DRL either removing the ground pin from the BCM going to the DRL relay takes care of the DRL's from ever coming on.

If you tie that to a switch where you simply ground the lead the DRL relay would operate and you could then use the DRL enclosures as Fog lamps as long as the bulbs you install do not exceed 10 amps draw. (you would need to remove the diode mod for manual control)
Interesting, Now that I see the circuit I would not leave standard halogen bulbs (that came in the enclosure) they draw to much current to be used with the gauge wiring and fuse used for the DRL circuit. Otherwise if you wanted to use Halogen bulbs you could always wire the bulb leads to an inline relay and feed the lamps directly from the battery. Lots of options here.

 

I am just about ready to wrap up this project and get back on the rear camera issue. I thought I would share a few things I found out about the circuit, current draw, DRL defeat etc.

Considering these enclosures were really intended to be fog lamps and not DRL's they are a great platform for using them as originally intended. A couple of things that affect this. Everyone knows how DRL works and the pro's and con's of them so, personally, I think they suck and serve no useful purpose other then giving the Police a nice bright object to pick out in traffic to aim their radar guns at. (IMHO)

I also completed the headlight switch mode that allows the selector to be placed in the OFF mode. This should keep the DRL's off completely. I can simply rotate the control to Auto is I want them to work as they normally would. I also installed the DIODE for DRL on with lights giving me "Fog" lights when the light switch is on. This is really a simple mod that is well documented, however if anyone wants I can expound on it. I also deleted in internal bulb and installed a 12v led, brighter and nicer to look at. While I was at it I pulled the cluster, removed those purple/blue bulbs and replaced them with Ice blue leds and calibrated the all the gauges of info from the Tech 2.

Now some important information. First, the DRL circuit is designed to have a max current value of 10 amps, this is what it is fused for and a good rule of thumb is not to draw more then 75% of this value during normal operation. The following is actual values I actually measured, not from some spec sheet.

That said, the current draw of a 4114 DRL is approx 2.5 or 5 Amps for the pair
An H10 Halogen bulb is 4.1 or 8.2 for the pair (these are the bulbs that come with the enclosure)
An H10 High Brightness LED replacement is .8 or 1.6 for the pair
Finally, for those who really like it bright a 35W HID is: 6.5 Startup 4.1 stable or 13Amps/8.1Amps. 55W is slightly higher.

Ok, couple of comments, the replacement housing if installed with the adjustment screws all the way in will throw and very nice even pattern just below the level of the regular low beams. I installed a high brightness amber LED in mine, they look great (if you like amber) and provide a good amount of light. Being amber they also do attract cops. If you wanted the keep the H10's the enclosures come with they should be fine as well. I would not use them as DRL's though and would opt for lower power LED replacements.
If you just have to have all the light possible you could go with a 55w H10 HID using the power supplied by the DRL circuit to operate a relay and switch power directly from the battery. You would overdrive the circuit otherwise which could result in wiring or relay failure. Since the BCM strictly controls the winding of the relay the load is isolated for the vehicles computer, so no issues there.

Anyway, I am really happy with the outcome, they look great, I now have fog lights that can come on when you want just a little more light without running the headlamps or in the rain, and no more fuc%ing DRL's
Here's some pics!

 

Very nice!!!

 

great info. would be nice if we could use the GM headlight module from a Yukon Denali as that has a fog light switch I have one in my H2 but it does not do anything. I guess I need to check the available pins to see if I can get output if so maybe it can be rewired to BCM maybe through a diode so it feeds the relay signal wiret when pushed on but not allow back voltages from BCM.