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Hummer H2For those who like a little more gleam to their Hummer, the H2 offers a similar rugged look as the H1, but as a lower cost, and with more added features, making it almost a massive luxury SUV.
Just got the h2 aligned with the new wheel bearings(it was aligned when the old ones went bad)
this is the printout. The truck pulls left slightly on all roads even crowned but is particularly bad in the left lane on the highway where the road is crowned the other way. It doesn’t take much effort to keep the wheel centered but it is enough that it’s annoying.
With the wheel centered it basically tracks straight within margin of error, but the on center feel is about 3-5 degrees counterclockwise. That’s where it returns to center and likes to stay… yet it goes left at that point.
I’ve heard various things about what caster should be on these trucks. It looks like service manuals call for an ideal .3 degrees more on the passenger side to account for road crown. I’ve got about +.7. Is that enough to be noticeable in the wheel? It is still green on their sheet.
The main questions are here:
Would it be a terrible idea to tell them to make both sides even? Or will I hate how it drives? I do an even mix of left lane highway driving and back road driving. Or should I tell them to make it +.3ish passenger?
Leaning towards just making it even because of how left banked our most highways are here in the southeast.
Just got the h2 aligned with the new wheel bearings(it was aligned when the old ones went bad)
this is the printout. The truck pulls left slightly on all roads even crowned but is particularly bad in the left lane on the highway where the road is crowned the other way. It doesn’t take much effort to keep the wheel centered but it is enough that it’s annoying.
With the wheel centered it basically tracks straight within margin of error, but the on center feel is about 3-5 degrees counterclockwise. That’s where it returns to center and likes to stay… yet it goes left at that point.
I’ve heard various things about what caster should be on these trucks. It looks like service manuals call for an ideal .3 degrees more on the passenger side to account for road crown. I’ve got about +.7. Is that enough to be noticeable in the wheel? It is still green on their sheet.
The main questions are here:
Would it be a terrible idea to tell them to make both sides even? Or will I hate how it drives? I do an even mix of left lane highway driving and back road driving. Or should I tell them to make it +.3ish passenger?
Leaning towards just making it even because of how left banked our most highways are here in the southeast.
yes all of my ball joints and bushings are good.
A pull is caused by positive camber or negative caster, in your case you will pull left with both. Your alignment is far off caster and also needs more toe.
The main questions are here:
Would it be a terrible idea to tell them to make both sides even? Or will I hate how it drives? I do an even mix of left lane highway driving and back road driving. Or should I tell them to make it +.3ish passenger?
Leaning towards just making it even because of how left banked our most highways are here in the southeast.
Show them the OEM specs. Btw, the secret behind alignment "GREEN" printouts is to simply adjust the oem specs/ tolerance. LOOK AT YOUR CASTER VARIANCE SPECS programmed in to get GREEN.
Gavin, Very interesting, your results are very close to mine. I can say mine drives as straight as an arrow and road crowns don't seem to have any effect unless they are drastic. The only reason I got an alignment was because I bought a new set of tires and wanted to make sure they last. Before I had the alignment done I made sure the Z height and vehicle rake was correct.
A pull is caused by positive camber or negative caster, in your case you will pull left with both. Your alignment is far off caster and also needs more toe.
As you pointed out the specs say something different. I guess I should be happy mine drives as good as it does. My 06 drove a bit better but then again it had Air suspension which I really miss.
Gavin, Very interesting, your results are very close to mine. I can say mine drives as straight as an arrow and road crowns don't seem to have any effect unless they are drastic. The only reason I got an alignment was because I bought a new set of tires and wanted to make sure they last. Before I had the alignment done I made sure the Z height and vehicle rake was correct.
you have a LOT more caster than I do and they’re within a degree of each other right and left so there’s basically no crown correction going on. If you like the way that drives I might just do the same.
The caster on mine at least on the driver side is looks out of spec by a long shot.
thanks for sharing your actual alignment printout I’ve been looking for one to reference and couldn’t find one.
How did you check/adjust your z-height and rake?
Last edited by Gavin Costigan; Jan 17, 2024 at 11:18 PM.
Total toe should be +.10°-+.20° LOOK AT THE CENTER LINES:
wait… I might be misunderstanding something. If the spec is +.10 +-.20 does that mean anything from -.10 to +.30 is acceptable? or am I wrong?
If my toe is .03 wouldn’t that still be in the accepted range although not the ideal .10?
Caster Angle Opinions Needed
LOOK AT THE CENTER LINES: