The driver door speaker is muddy/fuzzy sounding. I have wiggled the boot going from the door to the cab and seemed to make the sound improve. Anyhow I have partially removed the driver door panel, thinking I could just pull out the speaker and do some tests.
ISSUE 1: All of the how-tos on door panel removal seem to be for rear passenger doors. I am stuck trying to pull up the top. I can't find a good photo showing me where the other plastic pins are (if any) and don't want to break anything. Any input?
ISSUE 2: All of the photos show the door interior without soundproofing. The fabric is glued down around the speaker. Any advice for removing this so I don't destroy it?
ISSUE 3: If the break in the wire is in the boot, can I pull off the boot and repair from there? The boot (sometimes called grommet) has a handle type protrusion that allows me to spin. Is this like a gas cap where I get it to the right place and it can open?
ISSUE 4: How Can I trace the speaker wires from speaker under the dash? How do I remove the body plastic piece covering over the E brake to trace the speaker wire? There are a lot of bundles...
ISSUE 5: If the speaker is shot I have a factory replacement. So not really an issue. I did have a leak over this driver door that I believe came from a gap in the driver door gasket. But if anyone else has had a speaker fry from water, please advise. I have thoroughly upgraded my roof entry points, and it is highly unlikely water is the culprit at this point. It seems more likely wear and tear inside the boot. I could be wrong.
ISSUE 6: Where is the ground for the radio? I otherwise have a little bit of white noise throughout the speakers.

BACKGROUND: I recently upgraded to a Kenwood head unit with reasonable equalizer functions as well as the ability to move the focal point of sound source. In my opinion the OEM Bose speakers and amp work quite well with the improved system, and I bought a spare OEM Bose speaker instead of screwing around and swapping out the whole system. Too much snow right now to go crazy on this since I don't have a garage to work in.






What is this felt?

Do I remove this panel to access speaker wires coming into the cab?

Which points at the top are pins holding the panel into place?

I got the upper right loose but middle and left are very tight. Don't want to break anything.

Do I remove this? How would I get a new speaker wire through it?

 

I stopped by an automotive AV/Security shop and the owner used a battery to test signal through the driver side tweeter. I could hear the pops in the door speaker. He was convinced it was a dead tweeter that was the issue. I bought an OEM Bose tweeter off eBay and it didn't work either. So I swapped my original to the passenger side, and it worked just fine. Then I tried the eBay tweeter, and it also worked just fine on the right. I was finally able to find the color coded stereo wiring diagrams (and all other wiring diagrams) for $20 here: https://portal-diagnostov.com/en/. I also realized the OEM manual I bought a few months ago also has the diagrams in the "entertainment.pdf" but are not as easy to read as the color coded ones. So it turns out when I wiggled the tan and grey wires coming out from under the two pin connector a the A pillar, I saw wires moving in the fuse block are at the driver side of the dash. The wiring schematic shows that this is where the door and tweeter wiring meet and branch. I am betting that the connector is loose there, and at this stage trying to figure out how to get to the backside. The wiring diagram also shows that from the relay the speaker wires go direct to the amp harness, through a bundle under the dash. Keep in mind this is for a 2005 H2 SUT so another year may be different. I am trying to understand the Letter and number configurations for the wire connector portals on the I/P fuse block relay junction as a whole. Any input before I start tearing the dash apart is helpful. Also everything says disconnect the battery before working on electrical but then I need to perform tests with the volt meter. Any advice on whether this is critical while working with speaker wires, let me know. In addition I can see the wiring for the remote start coming down the A pillar, and I've had to pull out a fuse that was hot-wired with a copper clip, so I am suspecting issues in general in this fuse block and relay.



This is a 12x6 grid. I'm trying to understand where F5 and E4 are.

 

I see what you mean WRT THE speaker power. I thought you meant radio power in SEPCOR.

Anyway, See if this attachment helps out.

 

Yes, the diagram for Block C1 helps out. Thanks! I got in with the Borescope camera and was able to see where the paired tan and grey wires connect from the amp and branch to the tweeter. I was also able to find them on the back of the amp with the Borescope. I used my plastic prybar and the Borescope to push on the wires, and the signal to the door speaker improved, and I even got some hiss out of the tweeter. Hadn't heard anything out of this tweeter before. It looks like someone spilled coffee or something in the console and there's some residual gunk on the pin connector at the back of the amp. The aftermarket wires for the remote start were tied to the bundle for the speaker and door bundle coming out of the front of the relay block, and that also could have put some pull onto the speaker cables. It looks like the solution is in sight. I love troubleshooting issues on the Hummer. If only I had robotic snakes hands! I'll post the photos I took with the Borescope. I could not find anything on the Hummer forums about how the speakers are wired, so I'm not the only one looking.

 

Here's another couple of wiring sheets that may be helpful.

 

It was just the signal wires going from the OEM stereo 24 pin connector to the OEM Bose amp under the center console. After swapping the tweeter to the right side, temporarily wiring a good OEM door speaker at the relay at the driver end dash and even using a good OEM junkyard amp off eBay - with none of it working, I studied the pinout chart on the OEM wiring diagrams. Had I tested for signal and not just continuity I would have found the problem, but I did not know the wiring and was working with what I could see - the speakers. Backprobes at the fuse/relay under the dash are easy to get do, and I could see signal was not good there compared to the left side passenger fuse/relay, where it is also easy to probe and test for signal on the speakers. All you have to do to get to the amp is remove a screw and pop off the back of the center console facing the passenger seats, and you can access the amp 24 pin connector. You need to backprobe and play music or a steady sine wave tone is better, while connected to your multimeter. My signal was just really low at the amp from the head unit. So I thought this is easy I'll just look for the break in the wire going from the amp to the head unit, which is like 3' of wire. To make it worse I knew I'd had a mouse living in the center console, so I thought just find the chewed up wires. But nope no chewed wires in the bundle which actually DOES NOT GO STRAIGHT TO THE HEAD UNIT. It goes sideways under the passenger seat, under the carpet and then back up under the passenger dash. The old original tape is a bear to unwrap, a sticky mess. So I bought some shielded 16 AWG wire - sheathed as a stereo pair, fished it under the dash through the console straight to the amp. I did not want snip the suspect wires just in case this was also not the problem. I ended up using pigtails off a 24 pin pre-wired connector off eBay. I bought the GM micro-pack 18-16 AWG female pins PART 5842C online, but it turned out my crimper was about 1mm too wide to work with these tricky pins. OEM crimper was going to cost another $100, so I defaulted to the Chinese harness, depinned some green and brown wires to stick with the OEM color codes, depinned the factory signal wires at either end and butt crimped/heat shrinked to my new wire. This was such a process with so many failures I just thought nope this won't work either. Fired up the Hummer, connected my iphone and BOOM! I've got my full sound back. So after blowing about $150 on junkyard parts all it needed was $10 worth of parts and a $10 back probe kit. I spoke with CRUTCHFIELD, techs online, Reddit stereo nuts on and on and on and no one said test signal starting from the head unit to the amp, no one said start at the upstream and head downstream. I even had people telling me to buy all new speakers and an amp and had a pro at a shop tell me it was the tweeter. PS the Kenwood head unit allows me to fine tune 16 equalizer channels and move the sound around the cab to balance. Thrilled with what I can do to make this OEM system sound great.

The depin tool facing the 5842C micro pack pin was the best for depinning. I practiced on the eBay harness first. That little tab needs to be pushed in for it to release. Photo shows amp end.

Used color coded pigtails to help me keep track. NOTE: The blue connector lock is the A side and the grey is the B side. Pinout numbers are on these parts. I tested for continuity before final assembly.

A and B pinouts from head unit to amp.

Continuation of A and B pinouts on the amp end. This is for H2 2005 SUV and SUT.
and the Hummer sounds great.

 

Nice work and excellent Pic's and Pic markings... Easy to follow...Maybe you should start your own Youtube H2 channel....LMAO .